Hi Jon20013!
Well - now that we've cleared that up, let's see if I can assist you in your search for some suggestions that could help in
minimizing shrinkage and
distortion for your stainless steel
welding application that requires an "Oilcan free" overall geometric dimensional shape... I know that's what you really meant, especially adjacent to where the joints are concerned, correct??? I say this because
distortion, shrinkage does'nt noticeably change the surface finish grade of the metal and for clarification purposes!!! In other words, no ripples, curves or bends where the surface lines or the surface contours should be flat, straight and continuous, correct???
Anywho, here are some other suggestions or options that might be useful for your application:
#1.) Having the capability of programming, upsloping, downsloping and pulsing your
welding current, which is as you already know, dependant on the type of power source available to you would be helpful in controlling the heat input... Possibly renting or leasing the equipment could be an option here if none of these capabilities are readily available to you with your present
welding equipment...
#2.) Generally speaking of course; If you're vessel requires both longitudinal and circumferential butt joints then, it would be logical to weld the longitudinal seams first and your circumferentials last as far as your overall sequence of operations, with everything else that's to be welded to the vessel in between... It's the "in between" part that's going to be difficult to control as far as
distortion and shrinkage is concerned so;
#3.) If you're only going to produce a few then, shucks!!!
I apologize for not remembering the brand or manufacturer (Tempil?) of this heat sink (the name brand is HEAT) compound I used awhile back in the eighties which was available in in paint cans or caulking tubes... This compound would absorb the heat adjacent to the joints (both fillets and butts) once spread on to the material prior to
welding so it would have to be applied to both members of any of the joints where other heat sinks may not be accessable! Once
welding is completed, the compound readily peels right off if applied properly!!! (definitely read the instructions first with this stuff) If tee joints are to be welded, apply a coat of this stuff on the backside of the tees adjacent to the centerline of the tee and not directly on the opposite side of that centerline so that you do'nt burn the stuff because it stinks like heck when it burns, but works really great when properly applied!!!
#4.) Even when you tack the CJP's together, you must back purge the joints prior to
welding or you'll never get acceptable RT's!!!
Of course, you must also backpurge the joints prior to and during
welding so that the backside of the roots (penetrations) do'nt show contamination or porosity in the radiographs!!! Also, do'nt forget to cap/cover the openings and/or fittings prior to purging or else you'll be wasting alot of argon!!! Use common sense here!!!
#5.) Use an oxygen/nitrogen analyzer/indicator in order to constantly check for atmospheric contamination levels in the purge areas prior to,during and after both tacking and
welding the vessel CJP joints together!!! A definite must for acceptable RT's!!! Then again, you do'nt want the welds to be just acceptable do you??? Of course not!!! You want them to be superlative!!!
#6.) use tempsticks or pyrometers to control your interpass temperatures while
welding and as a
welding engineer, you should have either of these items available to you. you should also calculate the interpass temps yourself for 16 gauge 304L ss...
#7.) After the welds are completed especially not too long after; Passivate and clean the welds, HAZ zones so that you minimize or even eliminate potential ISCC (Intergranual Stress Corrosion Crack) and pitting corrosion locations at or adjacent to the joints!!! Very Important!!! Especially with thin walled vessels!!! If you can, passivate and clean the joints prior to tacking and
welding also, preferrably after the components are fabricated!!! Oh yeah - I almost forgot, deburr the components prior to passivation and/or assembly/tacking where the CJP's are!!! Also, if you must plasma cut openings; grind and polish kerfs and remove via polishing or preferrably passivation (because of possible inpregnation of dirt, grease film or other potential contaminants to the fusion/weld zones) any HAZ showing prior to
welding if it's a CJP weld!!! In other words, use common sense here!!!
I'd be happy to assist you in greater detail but, as you know, since I do not know what Type of equipment you have available, what the actual design and/or specs. looks like; I'll have to stop here for now!!!
If you would like, e-mail me ( hanklive39@hotmail.com ) a detailed description (possibly a set of prints?) of the vessel in question, a list of your available equipment and whatever else you might feel necessary for me to assist you further unless that is, if you can take it from here!!!
Good luck you youngtimer!!! All the BEST!!!
Respectfully,
SSBN727 Run Silent... Run Deep!!!