gotta love them skintoed shoes! dont think i'd last long there, I cant even walk on a sandy beach barefoot without doing the chicken dance!

More amusements!

FCAW:  Pertains too "Farmer Code Arc Welds."  See SMAW.

Stretched hook?  If it can still hook and lift a load, it's all good!  The safety latch was optional anyway.

When dealing with large loads consisting of a platform and other structural parts, they may be balanced with two hooks hooked into the I-beams on either side.  If the first lift isn't balanced, set it down, move one hook a few inches, and try again.

If a 1/4" fillet weld fails an oil (diesel) test, just burn two passes overtop of the spot in question!  It takes too long to grind out a pinhole.

If the print calls for a 1/4" or so dualshield uphand, it's aight too weave in a weld 3/4" wide, or a skinny bead drowned with undercut.  If the uphand is undercut, two downhands covering the edges will make it a proper uphand.

Likewise, the above is true for any process.  7018 especially.

If your hand isn't steady, drink more coffee.  This way you won't even need to worry about puddle manipulation.

"It's within a foot."

SMAW:  "Some Metal Arc Welded."

Here's a few images.  I love the third one down!  "La-dee-da!  It's only a bomb, what's the worst that could--" *THUNK!*

FC feild materials identification :
Steel ; anything heavy that rusts
Stainless ; anything heavy that doesnt rust
Aluminum ; anything light that doesnt rust
Thats it, theres olny 3 metals, anything else is some of that there fancy space age materials and has no place at all in the FC.
Steels can be properly welded with anything determined to be another steel, ex; coat hangers, fence wire, a thin strip of something that you hacked apart with a grinder...
there are no pre/post heat requirements and cleanliness is olny important if theres too much crap on the surface to strike an arc. Acceptable welds are covered in other sections.
Stainlesses are a special case and concist of anything thats heavy and doesnt rust and has nothing at all to do with cromeium or nikle, whatever they are...
Stainlesses are welded with a special rod known as 308, which is just the name for all stainlesses. all stainless jobs should be preheated to the point that they are glowing bright orange in strong sunlight. 1 rod works for all and whatever those silly profesionals are talking about diffrent grades and what not is a load of junk to get you to spend more money that you dont need to. If the 308 rod isnt available, a steel and a can of spray paint will have the same effect.
Aluminums are anything that looks like a stainless but is just too dang light to be a steel. These are special cases and can be easily handeled with that wonderious "alumiweld" rod. Aluminum is not weldable with a "steel" rod, but in some cases that mericle 308 rod will work, after all its a high tech wonder. aluminums need preheat as well, but they wolnt glow so the best way to tell is to touch it with your gloved finger. If the tip of the glove chars and shrivels, your ready to weld.

And remember, if all else fails, theres always duct tape. :)
-Clif

All FC welding which may come in contact with the public shall be inspected by a certified FC inspector (Willies). All work deemed to be inspected shall be deemed by They to be inspected by Willies. If They show up and give you the Willies all welds not able to pass the drop test for integrity shall be  ground smooth, rewelded and the weld needle gunned until there is no indication of a ground weld. If the welder gets the Willies on the re-weld, the subsequent re-weld shall be inspected until it conforms to FC part 2007-5 commonly known as Warmnfuzzy section. FC Part 2007-5 states if the welder gets the Willies more than twice on any single weld that weld shall be kept out of production until the time deemed by the FC holder until They will not get the Willies and have a Warmnfuzzy.