Open your gap to a 1/8 and drop your heat about 5 amps. On the bottom of the bellhole make sure you hold you rod up in there and move slow. with having downhill experience you are going to want to run faster with the rod. Depending on the size of your pipe you might want to bend you rod so you have more control. This has always work for me but I am sure that there are welders with more experience that could help you out better.
you'll probably travel about half as fast on uphill as you do with downhill. personally, I whip and pause very slightly. I whip away to about the front of the keyhole and then move back into the keyhole about half the distance I whipped. I pause JUST long enough for the puddle to catch up to my rod, then I whip again. the keyhole should be slightly bigger than the flux on the rod. if you see the keyhole closing up, angle the rod back into the puddle to put more heat into it. if the keyhole gets too big, angle away from the puddle to put less heat into it. on the bottom you're gonna have to push the rod up into the pipe kinda like you do with downhill. by the time you get around to 4 o'clock you won't have to push the rod into the bevel quite as far. the whole concept is to keep the keyhole the same size and your root bead will look consistent and you'll have good penetration.
Good explanation Welderdude. As stated pay close attention to the keyhole. And on bottom place tip of rod inside of pipe to avoid IP or suckback. Not necessary at top half as gravity is working with you not against you. If keyhole gets too large you can whip with longer strokes to allow cooling and or tilt rod/stinger down to get less penetration. Keyhole too small you can tilt rod perpendicular (90degrees) from pipe. You also should feather your tacks for good tie-ins. Travel a little slower and use whipping rod to preheat tacks as you tie in to them. I use Lincoln 5p++ 1/8" for root pass. You can also change the current on the machine :) The above tips are for minor changes during the weld. Good luck.
shorten the land to 3/32, 3/32 gap and increase the heat to 90-95 do not let the key hole get bigger then the end of the rod and your off to the races.
so am i doing a drag or ive heard about like an in and out motinion like you do on plate stacking it so more heat? smaller landing that seems like it will burn out im having hell with this uphill is the root going to look like my down hill really small bead and really convex?
so i need to whip my root going uphill?
i just stick in at the bottom and drag it to the top great root every time
some people drag...other people whip. you should try both ways to see what you like. the root might look a bit wider when going uphill when you compare it to downhill.
mody,
You have gotten good feedback on this ... A Few more things....Make sure you get and stay Comfortable.... Sometimes its just the right combination of leaning and moving as you progress up the pipe. In whatever position you are welding in (5-G, 6-G etc.. ) Make sure you can see well... Keep at it and one day the uphill open butt will be less like hell and more like heaven....
Brian