There are many pipe template packages on the internet one I saw had some templates ready to download at http://www.ezpipe.com/samples.htm.
If your talking about the method for cutting, I have seen setups using hole saws and of course the cutting torch.
If you can't find the template you need, let me know what size it is and maybe I can do one and post it on my website for download.
Have a nice day
Gerald Austin
Thanks Gerald,
I will give that a try.I was reading about some jigs you can buy called a fishmouth have you ever tried one of these jigs?
Thanks again.
Jack Murdock
i've used a hand operated machine that cuts a fishmouth out of one side of a piece of pipe and then you flip the pipe over and cut the other side. all it does is shear it out. but it's quite pricey. i think the one we bought was capable of notching out 2" schedule 40 pipe, and it was up around $1000.
if i wasn't going to do it very often, i'd just play around w/ a torch and a grinder till i found a good depth to cut the fishmouth. then i'd get a piece of cardboard or paper and trace the fishmouth so that all i have to do is put the template on the next piece to be cut and then trace it. then all you have to do is cut it w/ a cutting torch.
I've never used one. I've always used the cutitng torch and a hole saw setup for aluminum handrails.
Gerald Austin
You might consider different joint configurations. We use a birdlip for panels most often. Its simple. Use a shear (or ask someone to use thiers), and shear the pipe. This not only cuts it extremely fast but also flattens it for a nice joint configuration. May manufacturers use this method. good luck.
Don
Now that you mention it, all of the cattle/livestock gates I have seen are built this way. Much better than a pipefittter method for a cattle gate or similar item.
Great suggestion Don!
Gerald Austin
Thanks Don.
I will look into the birdlip method. It sounds like this would be much easier then trying to figure out cutting the curve in pipe. I don't have a shear or know of anyone with one but if I am understanding you correctly it is just a butt joint that the one end is flattened a little.
So I can use any method of cutting the end as long as it square at the end and flattened so that it lays flat on the jointing pipe.
Thanks for the help guys
Jack
That's what I do. Cut it any way you want, then flatten it a little with a hammer. Hit it from both sides to keep it symetrical. Careful when you do the other end so it stays in line with the first end. If you don't smash it all the way it's stronger.
Bill
You could consider using square tubing for the ends of the panels. Then all you need to do is cut off the pipes square and butt them up to the sq. tubing - no fancy cutting req'd.
Thanks.
I haven't seen any square tubing around here at the local home center stores but I will call around and check it out. That would sure make a nice strong panel.
Jack
Be aware of considerations the Zn may require if you are using galvanized, including fumes and, I am told, cracking
The proper source would likely be one that supplies structural steel "H" sections; "I" beams, round lolly columns, etc. for the construction trade (as opposed to bridges and the like) and they shouldn't be rusty when you buy them unless the price allows for it; they'll be stored in a protected location at the "right" source. Expect quotes on 25' lengths but they may cut them... otherwise you get quotes by the ton.
Home center stores will have the highest price imaginable for these hollow steel sections (HSS) by my experience if you can even find the size you need- often more than three or four times the price.
Good Luck
d
I HAVE BUILT MORE GATES AND PIPE FENCE THAN MOST PEOPLE HAVE EVER SEEN. FOR YOUR SITUATION IF THE PIPE IS NOT VERY HEAVY WALLED USE A CUT OFF SAW SET TO A 30 DEGREE ANGLE. CUT THE PIPE OUNCE ROLL IT WHERE IT LAYS ONE 180 DEGREE SPIN AND CUT IT AGAIN. THIS WILL MAKE A PERFECT SADDLE TO BUTT INTO ANOTHER PEICE.