Bill West, the head of The Lincoln Electric Welding School, said this about 6013 "If you fart, if you hiccup, if you blink wrong, this electrode will give you trouble." It has a very fluid slag that loves to run in front of the puddle. Your electrode angle should be smaller than with 7018(relative to the base metal) You really need to use the arc force to push the slag back on top of the puddle, and use as fast a travel speed as the bead will allow. I've used 1/8" 6013 at 125 amps on vertical down fillets with good results
also i find if you put the piece of metal on a slight enough angle so that gravity will help pull the puddle of slag back just enough (i've personally only need to do this for the T but if you have the problem for other joints it might work as well)
I used 3/32" 6013 with AC buzz box machines to weld sheetmetal from 18 ga [.045"] and thicker. For machine settings, just try on some scrap, if You can't keep from burning through on thin material You are using too much amperage.
Do you HAVE to use AC ?I run it on DC+.I only use it on flat or horizontal runs.The slag sure comes off easy and it leaves a fine-rippled bead.Just drag it with a short/medium arc length.I use 100-110 amps DC+ for flat/Ho..with 1/8" rod.Never used it with AC though.
alright, as i figured it will be only on AC as its just a small buzzbox. rod used will be 3/32 6013, all positions since its already been bolted in. i thought it was going to be 14 gauge, but just found out thats not what needs welding, its 16 and 18 gauge. should i try to whip it, or drag it just like 7018.
Hello shooterfpga, DaveBoyer had a really good basic suggestion, get some scrap to simulate the various fit-ups and postions and go to trying some different techniques and settings. I do think that some oscillation will possibly make the job a bit easier, however, it's the technique that will work for you that will be the right one. I also feel that running on the high-end of the amperage scale will help to avoid the "fish eyes" as some people refer to them. The hotter you run the faster you'll need to travel. So do a little experimenting and good luck. Regards, aevald
i will try on scrap, i always try to get some of the same base metal. i just dont wanna be taking an hour or so just to dial in without blowing holes.
I would rather spend an hour screwing up some scrap than trying to fill in the holes, which I have found is a *BITCH* on thinner stuff. YMMV [Your Mileage May Vary]
If your welding machine has tap settings ie low, medium and high or low and high, plus fine amperage settings. Using/Check with an AC voltmeter which tap to work connection has the highest voltage reading while not welding. Usually the low tap will have the highest open circuit voltage. This along with a high enough amperage will make any electrode start and weld easier.
Hello 357max, that's a great suggestion and one to remember. Thanks for posting. You might consider leaving that same information in the "Tricks of the Trade" section here on the forum. Regards, aevald
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