what size SMAW electrode

By swnorris (****)

Date 02-27-2008 14:10

Electrode    Diameter    Amp Range

6010 and 6011 3/32    50-70
1/8    100-130
5/32 140-170

6012 1/8    100-130
5/32 165-200

6013    3/32    60-75
1/8 100-135
5/32 140-180

7018 3/32    70-110
   1/8    120-160
5/32    150-200

7024 1/8 140-180
5/32    180-240

By bozaktwo1 (***)

Date 02-27-2008 18:01

Learning to weld is one of the hardest things you'll do. Man, those guys on TV make it look easy, huh?

You didn't say what electrode you're starting out with, and that makes a big difference as to the current you can pass through the rod, among other factors. I'll go ahead and assume you're not shelling out big coin for 7018 or better. Personally, I found that the easiest rod to learn with was 6013. Smooth arc, the flux makes a nice contrast with the puddle so you can actually see what's going on in there, and it's fairly inexpensive. A lot of guys will use 6011, which works much the same; but the 6011 requires some patience (ouch, lots of spatter) and you have to learn how to manipulate it properly, or you'll just make a mess. 6013 can be "dragged" in a stringer; that is, it doesn't require any kind of real manipulation to make a decent bead. Seeing what's going on in the puddle of molten metal is very important; this is what you have to learn to control.

As far as Electrode vs. Amperage: it's actually dictated by the requirements of what you're welding on. If your base plate is 1/4" steel, then try a 3/32" electrode at say 85 amps to start with. Of course, this is pure experience and I still don't know what electrode you're using.

If you're holding a proper lead angle, your puddle should be slightly oblong, about 1-1/2 x the diameter of the electrode or so. Again, this will vary with electrode size, current, and how hot your base metal is to begin with. The puddle will indeed flow out ahead of the electrode. If you look carefully, you'll be able to distinguish the leading edge as being molten flux (this protects the toes of the weld as they are forming on the sides of the leading edge).

If you're truly committed to learning this art, I recommend that you go find a job, even a part time one as a welder's helper. Or go to school. Or both. But if you insist on going the self-taught route, I really admire that. In any case, teach yourself how to hold a lead angle at about 10 deg.. A pair of 1.5x reading glasses wouldn't hurt, either...that will help you see into that puddle a little better. In any case, good luck!

By James Corbin (**)

Date 02-27-2008 20:04

I agree, the 6011 and 6013 electrodes will allow you to use AC or DC+, there cheap with a good shelf life. While you practice use the 1/8" diameter and crank up the amps until you learn to strike the arc, then turn the amps down when you are not sticking rod as much using the 1/4" (or thicker) steel practice coupon. Both rods burn different, but most other rods, generally, will fit into these two welding patterns for practice purposes.
As for self teaching I would at least find a seasoned weldor you can ask questions, watch, and look at your practice plates to get an idea of how you're doing.
Lincoln Electric Foundation has cheap books that can tell you about each rod, its general use and welding applications. Go to ---- https://ssl.lincolnelectric.com/foundation/store.asp?PID=16&cat=8
To see all the book selections or I recommend "New Lessons in Arc Welding" for beginning weldors. https://ssl.lincolnelectric.com/foundation/item.asp?prodnum=L&PID=16

Good luck

By dutchie Date 02-28-2008 10:06

Thanks for your excellent comments.

I am struggling with a bit of an illness at the moment and therefore have to spend most of my time in and around the house. Therefore I guess that for now self teaching is the only option. When back on my feet again, finding a job as a part time welder to learn the art properly sounds like a great idea.

OK back to the welding. After some practising with the (3/32") 6013 rods (well guessed ) I got the hang of keeping the right torch angle. On thin stuff, (1/16" plate) I can now make an acceptable butt joint (at 65A) and lap joint (at 75 A). T joints don't work for me on the thin stuff because the vertical piece burns away too rapidly at 75A. Using less amps just makes a complete mess on both lap and T joints.

On thicker stuff (1/4" plate) I managed to do an acceptable T joint at 90A, but it made the rod spatter a bit due to the high amps. The slag didn't come off as easy as I had hoped either.

The thing I am trying to figure out now is whether the travel speed and power settings were accurate. I tried to compare my welds to the pictures on the Miller website http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/stick_tips/
Unfortunately I could not tell the difference between proper speed and slow travel too well. I hoped that the electrode size and amp settings would be a bit of a guideline here.
I guess determining proper speed comes from judging the weld pool when welding, but I do not really know how to do that. More suggestions on that are very welcome.