Verticle up welding on stailess steel using smaw

By Kix

Date 04-08-2008 14:30

How thick is the material you are welding with the 1/8" electrode? How many amps are you using to go vertical up? What kind of problems are you having?

By taz Date 04-08-2008 14:53

125 amps 3/16 plate runing down on me butt joint

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 04-08-2008 16:06

Welcome to the forum Taz

Tell us exactly what electrode designation your rod is as well as the brand..

Some stainless electrodes are more adept at out of positon welding than others.

Where is Al ?????

He knows about this stuff

By pipewelder_1999 (****)

Date 04-08-2008 16:32

Hey Taz,

Welcome to the forum.

In my opinion using a 1/8" stainless steel rod on 3/16" is going to be difficult for anyone. Some of the manufacturers have flux systems that are more appealing than others, I just haven't run across one that would work with a 1/8" electrode and 3/16" thick material.

The reasons that SS is a little more difficult is due to the thermal conductivity. The molten metal stays molten longer and is more dependent upon the slag system to support the weld metal as it solidifies.

In addition, the joint configuration makes a difference. A tee joint will typically be easier than a butt joint. A gap of any kind can also cause problems.

I suggest 3/32" electrodes, start at the low end of t he manufacturers reccomended settings, keep the arc very tight. Manipulating the electrode from side to side with the majority of the time pent on the sides will allow the base metal to cool the weld metal better. That does not mean a weave bead, just oscillation enough to keep the heat spread out. I would also practice on thicker material and then work down.

Also, when your base metal gets hot, cool it off. When practicing, just cool it in water.

You can also practice on carbon steel using SS filler. The CS has higher thermal conductivity and will cool the weld faster.

Some other may have the key to the 1/8th on 3/16" vertical up. I have never been able to do it. 1/8" 7018 vertical up in anything other than a tee joint would be a little tricky.

Hope this helps.

Gerald Austin
weldingdata.com

By Kix

Date 04-08-2008 19:07

I definitely agree that starting out with a smaller electrode would help you learn a lot faster and easier for this application like said above. What you're doing is pretty tricky with a 1/8" electrode. You definitely need to know what you're looking at in the puddle and how what you do makes the puddle react in this application. Keep the arc choked pretty good and move quickly, but not so quick that your leaving voids. I guess we really need to know how the joint is set up before we try to give you some different techniques to try. Are the pieces you are welding together beveled or are you making a straight butt with a gap or are they tight?

By js55

Date 04-08-2008 21:27

Welcome to the wonderful world of high alloy SMAW. Perhaps the toughest welding technique to learn. And yes, 1/8" makes it even tougher, especially uphill on a vertical.
High alloys (SS and Ni specifically) do not flow. You have to put the metal exactly where you want it. And it doesn't do much good to crank up the heat to try and make it flow either. All that does it make the rod turn orange and droop on you. Keep your oscillation narrow. Try and estalblish an oscillation rhythm.
This one will take time.

By taz Date 04-08-2008 22:51 Edited 04-08-2008 22:54

thanks for the info I can weld i/8 7018 on 3/16 but been a long time welding ss up with stick lots easier with flux cored but the company i'm wroking for doesn't thinks so I will try and talk them into 3/32 or let them get someone else. My horisontals and overhead and flat are great but the verts going to be an issue.

By 803056

Date 04-08-2008 23:42

I assume you are using SMAW. That being the case, you may want to try and using an electrode of the limestone flax category, i.e., EXXX-15 rather than the EXXX-16 or 17 titania flux coatings.

The titania fluxes result in a fluid puddle and the slag has a lower melting temperature than the limestone fluxes.

Good luck - Al

By Stringer (***)

Date 04-09-2008 04:21

Back in the day, when I was working nights at a heat exchanger shop, we'd play a game where we'd see who could lay the best stainless bead on a vessel standing as far away as possible and, in a posture like fencing, burn 1/8 308l at arm's length. This is one heck of a drill. Quarter century later, I still do this with 7018 to stay sharp. Extend your arm straight out and keep a tight arc.

By grant clark Date 05-09-2008 17:23

Hey stringer, I wish we could all pat you on the back. Taz, forget 1\8 rod on3\16 stainless, maybe in flat possition,with fixture. I had to weld up a 20` dia.x 6` high open top ss tank x 1/4". I ground a slot half way through with arightangle grinder. Use 3/32 rod @ lowest heat possible, keep close arc, hot enough without arc going out. The 309 your using is for dissimiler metals "ie" carbon+ss. use horseshoe shape weave without leaving the puddle. You will get aprx. 1~1/2" of weld per rod. Slow going but good results. To speed up the process we used flux core with gas,mig , downhand with good results. it takes practice!!!!