Any Airgas should be able to get you 5 pound sleeves of 7016. THe 7016 was designed for open root wedling. Switch to 7018 for fill and cap.
You need a land as wide as your rod. A 3/32 rod, a 3/32 land. The gap needs to be a little bigger than the rod w/o flux. 3/32 rod,3/32 land an a little larger than 3/32 for the gap. Same if you are using 1/8.
On schedule 80 with a SA200 in 130 range start at 40 working up and down 5 until you find the "Spot"
in 190 start on 30 and you will probably need to work up. I have seen these run at 130 and 65 and 130 and 35 also 190 and 40 and 190 and 60. It depends on the machine and the welder.
I have not tested anyone on a Bobcat, but I would be sure the company would let you use it before you tested.
When you get your heat set in the "Spot" the 7016 will almost run itself. Run it like a caulking gun. There should be minimal pressure against the rod vs. a push on DH or UH6010.
Some guys like a little side to side motion but it is very slight and it is almost like walking the cup on tig but a much more subtle.
Once you get this feel and setting on your machine, it has a unique sound just like a DH bead has it's own sound. I can tell by the sound if a LH bead is going to work.
If you have pleanty of gap, tying into the tacks will be no problem. On the tack, where you start get a good feather and jut hit the other end. You want to be able to lay the metal on the bead as you cross the tack.
Keep your hand down on the rod holder and dont have your fingers up around the rod. Relax and keep a light touch on the rod holder.
This is mental.
BABRT's

The KOBE 7016 works very well, but you will still need to know the whole concept of running a Lo Hy root in.  Practice with a 3/32" land and an 1/8" gap and run it pretty cold somewhere around 75 amps for the most consistent roots. Problem with running a tighter gap is, one little boble and you won't break down your root face and you'll have straight lines show up on x-ray.  With a tight gap It will look like you got the penn you needed, but the root face didn't actually reak down.  Don't get me wrong, you can do that with the right setup and if know what your looking, but for you a bigger gap will be more consistent.  Keep the rod almost 90 deg to pipe at all times and tip it back into a push angle if you penn is going through to easy or if it's looking like your gonna blow through.  You should barely be able to see the arc on the outside of the pipe.  You want to be able to see the arc from the front side, so move your head where you can see what the front of the rod and sides are doing.  No keyholing, so really watch your sides to see if they are looking like they are getting ready to keyhole.  There is a really fine line here and this is where the experience kicks in.  If the side are looking like they are going to keyhole, you can put the rod into a push angle to try and save it, but if that doesn't work, pull out and turn the machine down.  Hope this helps ya alittle bit.