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Up Topic Welding Industry / Welding Fundamentals / 135` angle square
- - By thomasyyz (**) Date 09-02-2008 20:19
if you can follow the drawing, cut the material the to exact measurements ( or multiples of)
stamp the blade with the long measurement from the end of the two blades to check if it is still accurate,
mitre detail included
Attachment: 135anglesquare.png (12k)
Parent - - By mcostello (**) Date 09-03-2008 02:38
I am a wanna be- why do I need this? If I don't ask it will bite me next week!
Parent - - By thomasyyz (**) Date 09-03-2008 20:36
awannabe?? that sounds like you haven't accomplished anything.
just piece it together, throw it in your tool box and maybe you can find a use for it,
I use it for fitting 45ยบ accessories, some people use a spoon...,I use a fork.
cheers costello, Thomas.
Parent - - By sbcmweb (****) Date 09-04-2008 00:13
[deleted]
Parent - - By mcostello (**) Date 09-04-2008 02:53
If you seen my Tig practice you would wonder why I don't use it for a boat anchor instead of a welder. :) I realize no one was born knowing how to master the beast( except for the lucky few), getting the bird poo to be contineous and resemble a bead is getting slightly easier. I have a #9 lens in helmet and things are still too dark. I have cataract implants with their own built in shade, LWS does not want to sell me a #8 so I am trying to adjust. No one around here to get pointers from. Progress is slow, but its still progress.
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 09-04-2008 04:19
    mcostello: Practice carrying a uniform puddle first, when You can, start adding filler and trying to make a uniform bead. Keep the hot end of the filler rod in the argon, but far enough from the arc so it doesn't melt. In the old days they used to teach oxy-acetylene welding first, puddle alone then filler. Once this was mastered the rest follows more naturally.
Parent - By vagabond (***) Date 09-06-2008 02:37
If at all possible try some different brands on your lense.  9 is too light for most applications, at least a 10 is recommended.  Lighter shades are for plasma cutting etc.
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 09-06-2008 03:35
Hello mcostello, sometimes people will mistakenly believe things are too dark, so they will try to go with a lighter shade in order to "see" better. Instead they will actually experience more glare from the arc and it is harder to see the puddle, it's edges, and what is happening to it with regard to size, crown, flatness, or being concave. I hope that you aren't experiencing this as opposed to the issues you believe to be related to the condition of your eyes. If you can, see about checking out different manufacturers shaded lens, not all specific shade number lens give the same view to the welder. You may have read some of the threads on the forum discussing "cool blue" lens, gold lens, and other types of shaded filter plates, all of these give the welder a distinct and different perspective on how the weld looks as it's being done. Good luck and don't give up, sometimes it just takes some persistence and patience. Best regards, aevald
Parent - - By david.crawford (*) Date 09-15-2008 01:30
If you still can't see, and can't get a #8, I know most auto darkening helmets go down to a #8.
Parent - By mcostello (**) Date 09-18-2008 02:46
I found a #8 in gold, now ran out of time to try it out. Just started getting the motion down a little and some of a steel bead resembled something you guys might recognize. Used up 1/3 of a big AR so I don't have that much time in it yet. I have had cataract surgery in both eyes and they added a level of shade in each lens. A #8 for me might not be the same for you. They did one eye at a time and difference was readily apparent. Can weld about 10-15 minutes with no discomfort at all. Wanna burn more bead but no time. You guys cannot know how much this BB has helped. Appreciate all the advice, thanks, Mark.
Up Topic Welding Industry / Welding Fundamentals / 135` angle square

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