Metarinka,
Set your pipe up on adjustable pipe stands.
Take 4 s/s electrodes and hammer them on the ends slightly till the ends resemble small wedges.
Push them into the gap at your 4 compass points (2 from one side , 2 from the other)
Have the flange overhanging the end of the pipe by approx 1/4"
Place a small tack at 12 o'clock (on the outside)
Put the level on your pipe and raise/lower to level
Put the level on the flange face and level
Once level place a small tack at 6 o'clock (again on the outside)
Rotate pipe 90 degrees so tacks are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock
Reconfirm pipe is level
Place level on flange face and tap with rubber or wood mallet to get level
Small tacks at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock (again on the outside)
Weld the inside of the flange (peferably in the flat position if the spool is short enough)
Grind off the 4 tacks on the outside
Weld the outside of the flange (again in the flat position if possible)
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Shane
Hey Metarinka,
Seems to me if you know the difference between the ID of the flange and the OD of the pipe, it should be easy to figure out what you should have for a gap all the way around. By cocking the flange(letting the flange hang on the pipe, then pushing the bottom of the flange towards the pipe), your ready for your first tack.
You'll probably need both a level and squares. A square off the side of the pipe and a straight edge across the face of the flange works well for me. You may need to two-hole the flanges. Depends.
Are you working with a fitter?
Whats the application?
I don't think I'd worry too much about a concentric fit-up. If it were really all that critical, they'd probably be using weldneck flanges. If it were less critical, they'd be using rolled angle rings and backing flanges.
Hole this helps,
Dale Simonds