hello guys. i have recently purchased a used early 90's miller bobcat 225D. obviously the D stands for Diesel. it has a 16 horse deutz diesel with about 2000 hours on her. shes a strong running machine and i got a pretty good steal on her $950. how i'm hopeing to get some advice from some of you guys that know more about these welders than me. my problem is when the machine is idled down and i go to strike up she wants to stick every time. like its not producing enough amperage while at idle to light the rod up while it gose from idle to full rpms. now trust me its not me. i have been welding for 4 years now and i know how to start a rod. but even at full weld power she just dosn't seem like shes lighting up the rod like she should be. i'm hoping that someone out there can tell me what i can do to solve this problem, wether theres some contact points i can clean up or something of that nature?
thanks in advance, Jeremy
Go to rig pics and pm steve the one with the trailer pic he is a miller man. I would just tell you to throw it in the gutter and go buy another lol.
I can't help you with the welder but I can warn you about the Deutz.
Pull the sheetmetal and blow out all the fins before you start and every year. Also torque the head bolts every 2000 hours.
Those things do run forever but they require some attention.
yeah i have been told about re torquing the head bolts before, but the problem is i can't find an engine manual for the damn thing.
The rings are dirty and not sending the proper voltage to start the weld. Look for grooves or short brushes. Polish with an Armature stone and see how that works. Joe
You can probably google and find a dealer, then ask the service guy for the torque values. There are a lot of Deutzs in Austrailia and the pacific rim countries. It may take a while for them to get back to you because of the time difference but often they will.
Good luck
Hey J, it isn't the amps that your machine isn't producing that makes it hard to start but the low open circut voltage (OCV). OCV is what makes the arc start easy. A machine like the Lincoln Classic II has 94 OCV thus very easy arc starts. Small buzz boxes have low OCV- difficult arc starts. If you have been welding with a machine that has high OCV and are comparing it to your BC that may be where the problem lies. Check her panel where the duty cycle is listed and see what the OCV says- Ted
yes i know exactly what your talking about ocv. i completly forgot about it and when joe talked about the brushes and armature it dawned on me, and i'm never welding on the same machine everyday so i really don't think that i'm the problem. i did what joe said and looked at the brushes and armature and cleaned them up. the brushes wern't short and the spring felt like it had plenty of tension but the armature was not in the best looking shape so i polished it up. and it dose weld and start alot better. i think that that was most of my problem. its liveable now ha ha. but i'll have to check that output plate to see what the ocv actually is. my worries are how will this machine work when i put a wire feed on it and try to mig weld with it.
Check the max cv voltage. If it's 19 volts like my old Trailblazer was you will be limited to short arc solid wire. .045 71T1 won't go into spray transfer at 19 so your gonna be limited in this area.
To get the maximum ocv from the bobcat, set the range selector switch at the lowest setting and the fine current adjustment rheostat at near maximum for the amperage needed. There usually is 12-17 volts difference between the high rheostat and low rheostat settings for each range selector switch position.
For gmaw/mig short circuit solid electrode wire use the cv selector switch position.
17-26 volts is the max on my machine and short circuit solid wire is all i'm looking for and thanks for the tip 357max i will be trying that.
Where's Steve Webb when he's needed? I think you were correct before you edited your post, the early 90's BC is only going to put out 19 volts while welding. Constant voltage settings also have an OCV that is higher when not welding but become constant after arc is started. That may be where the 26 volts came from- where did you get the 17- 26 volt info from? I not a machine technician but I think this info is pretty close. As a final check if you have a feeder and some gas, fire the old girl up with some fluxcore put er on max and see what happens. If the arc only sits there and blubbers your not getting 26 volts. Hope this helps-Ted
I had a Ranger 8 that did this. The easy fix was to pull the cables off of the back of the lugs (the studs that your welding leads bolt to). Clean them up real good with a wire brush and clean the cable eyes and re-installed them. They didn't look dirty or corroded when I pulled them off but this fixed it right away. Who knows, it might work for you. Sometimes its the simple stuff.
on the amperage range slector for cv operation it states a 17-26 volt range, that is what i found when i went out and looked at it. i first said 19 because that seemed to ring a bell but i was was wrong so i edited it. but no i don't have a feeder yet i have a buddy that has two that i'm trying to get him to sell me. all i want to run is short circuit .035 solid wire. and thanks also sparkin i will be looking at my connections closely. i really didn't bother with them before because i put brand new dinese lugs on them when i bought it and i did clean them up a bit when i put them on but recalling i don't remember how good of a job i did. like i said before too cleaning up the armature and brushes helped quite a bit but not totally so maybe here is the rest.
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