I started out with a DeWalt 14" chop saw 10 years ago. It did me good for 3-4 years and we used it on tube up to 4" 1/4 wall. The cut quality on angles gets worse as you go larger in tube size and wall thickness. We used them so much that we went through one per year, but on a no-budget outfit the cost per cut was really low. We have since purchased a few horizontal band saws, the largest being 9x16. The cut quality is much better and overall fab time is reduced since we don't have to grind the huge burrs off from every cut, not to mention it's much cleaner and you don't have to put up with that constant grinding smell. If your going to make a few things here and there, go cheap and get a chop saw, if your going to run a fab shop, get the band saw.
Chop saw would be best. But forget the abrasive cut and go for a carbide tipped cold cut saw. Dewalt, milwaukee, and porter cable make good ones that will last you many years under light duty. Very quiet, no sparks, no dust, and a really smooth easily deburred cut.
Another vote for the cold cut chop saws...they operate at a slower rpm than the abrasive saws and the cut is fantastic...I've used them up to about 1/2" material and they zip right through and the piece that was cut is still cool enough to handle without gloves...Great tool.
Hello John, I would support the cold saw choice 100% percent except for one small detail..... this fellow is a hobbyist and the $4 to $5000.00 plus price tag for that saw might put him over the edge. Just funnin with you John. Best regards, Allan
are those like the cold saw, but without the coolant?
These run at 1300-1500 RPM and use a carbide tipped blade. Cold saws run MUCH slower and use High Speed Steel blades and coolant, and are much more rigid & heavily built [not portable]. The cold saw will give a more accurate cut because of it.
in other words a chop saw with a carbide blade.
I have used a skill saw with carbide and cut up to 3/4" plate with it.
A 14" chop saw runs about 3800 RPM. You can get a carbide blade and use it that way, but I am pretty sure the blade will hold up better at the lower RPM. The steel saws run slower than a Skill Saw too. If You have a choice of Skill Saws, the worm drive saws run quite a bit slower than the others.
Check on a Evolution Saw we have one at work and it does a good job on cutting 90 and 45 degree angles and you will get a square cut that looks like it has being machined.
MG
I would have to agree with MDG's reply. Just for more options though...A hand held "porta-band" is the next step up for the budget. Around $300 + ($285 for Porter Cable, $325 Milwaukee from Enco), but requires a higher skill level than the fixed gravity drop models. For the ultimate in economy would be the cut-off wafer discs on a 4-1/2" or 5" grinder. BUT!!! unless you are well trained and highly skilled in the SAFE operation of these, they can remove a finger, fly apart at 13,000rpm! It is all I have in my hobby shop (next step up is the "gas axe"), however, I've been running grinders ever since Nixon was president, and since I only use 2 fingers to type with, I can afford to loose a couple or three with out affecting my words per minute rate.
My choice/advice would be the portable band saw. Had one set up with a homemade bracket that made it a vertical table top saw, and custom chop saw type vise and stand. Be sure to get a name brand that takes the standard 44-7/8" blades. The cheap-o's are krap and often take odd size blades that are more expensive and hard to find.
I like the idea of a homemade bracket. I break a lot of blades on my Milwaukee. Probably operator error on my part. LOL
Another option is a 4X6 horizonal/veticle bandsaw. When used verticle You can rip, cope & notch, but the 1/2" blade will not cut tight curves. If used with a top quality blade these are pretty fast & efficient.
This type of saw is not as portable as a chop saw, but more versatile, better for shop than field work.
These machines come in every quality level, Jet brand being one of the better ones, down to junk that can not be made to work.
With regard to the blades, Lenox Diemaster II, 10-14 variable pitch are about the best, and well worth the cost, about 2X what a carbon steel blade costs, but last 5X longer and cut 2X as fast.
I would support the band saw option Dave recommends above. For hobby use, you can purchase a 4x6 H/V bandsaw for under $300, get good blades, build your own stand and have quality cuts for years. However, you have to be prepared to get slower cuts. Also, the motors on these saws are not built for heavy duty use, as they will overheat, and must be allowed to cool, if cutting continuosly (should never be left unattended). If portability is not a requirement, I think this is the best bang for your buck.
just for hobbies i'd go with a chop saw the cut isnt perfect but it's nothing that cant be filled
All of the suggestions here are good. It really depends upon your preference and usage. We use all of the above depending upon the location of the work, types of cuts, materials, etc.
Another thought, we use a 4 1/2" Hitachi grinder with 6" X .045 cut off wheels for many things. Gets all the way through good size hobby pieces, cuts any angle, can double as your sander for clean up in just a few seconds.
Have a Great Day, Brent
I bought a clarke 4 1/2" bandsaw from tractor supply 4-5 years ago. I'm on my 4th blade but have cut probably a mile of tube, square bar and more on that thing. It has traveled to jobsites in my trailer. I use a square to get the blade right with the fence and it cuts very well. I paid $189 for it and I know for a fact that I have tripled, quadrupled or more on my money back by having it. I got tired of using the blue tip wrench to cut tube and stuff, grinding, not always exactly how you want it, 45's sucked. I've used a sawzall out on the job doing gates and stuff, but you have to have a bit of skill to make sure it's 90 degrees etc. I've cut 4" sch. 40 in my saw, have to rotate it a bit to get all the way through but for the price at the time, well worth every penny I paid for it.
Oh yeah, it spends most of the time in the shop, but on outings it has fallen over coming up my driveway and landed sideways in the trailer, fallen over in the shop when I'm moving stuff around and thump it good, power cord has been damaged and just like a timex, it keeps on ticking.
Mine is a "Test Right" brand from TSC, made in Taiwan. I got it in '83, it has cut quite a bit of material.
The Lenox blades allow it to run at 220 FPM, the fastest of it's 3 speeds to cut mild steel. With these blades cut time is nearly as fast as a chop saw.
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