If your welding this product then you will need a welding procedure. The welding procedure will be supplied by the fabricator. If you have no procedure then the "code" is working. The idea behind this is that the fabricator shall demonstrate competence. No procedure=No competence. Best advice is to consult the code (and/or welding consultant) for proper welding.
It is going in an area that is not critical. I have been in the trade for over 35 years, i am not new. I just want to know how other people have done this. ( i have already made a couple of welds and i am happy with the results)
If you have been in the "trade" over 35 years that should be a pretty straight forward job.
Sounds like you have it handled then.
Hogan, and mechan, I have done miles of smaller pipe and tig welded them. This is the first time i have done pipe this large.I am sorry i asked a simple question. I do have it "handled". i thought this was a place to discuss topics like these, not a place for criticism. I am 54 years old and started working in a weld shop when i was 15, and have been in business for close to 30.I have heard alot, and seen alot but i dont know everything. I am sorry for asking such a stupid question!!!
Tim655 there is a lot of that here some think if you don't drive a dodge with a lincoln and stick weld pipe your not a welder they don't get out of the ditch enough to realize there are more things to weld than steel pipe in a dirt hole.
Never have done any ss slip on glanges but the last job i was on we did carbos 6'' slip ons and ran 3 passes on the back and 1 on the inside to prevent corroision 5p root and hot then 7018 cap and 1 7018 pass on the inside.
Hey shad you get that email I sent you? The gun posters? Just making sure I still have you same email.
By cmays 
Date 05-13-2009 02:56
Edited 05-13-2009 03:01
Tim,
Depending on your fit up situation, I like to cut my pipe where I can have the flange hang over about 1/4 inch to give a good spot for a fillet.
As you know most slip flanges have some slack in them so youll have to put several good tacks around the flange to prevent pull cause those big flanges love to move on you( especially stainless)Ill usually run 1/8 for my stringers around 95 to 120 amps depending on your travel speed. Ill run the stringer on the inside first then allow some time to cool then run my stringer on the outside second.Then Ill usually bump up to a 5/32 (110 to 120 amps) for a cap on the inside. and run a two pass cap on the out side giving you 2 inside passes and three outside passes. Watch you interpass temps. Now I know some of you are gonna say whoa thats too hot....but you have to understand its all in your travel speed. Im not hanging around very long on that puddle. I know we arent always privileged to have welding procedure (in a perfect world) and I feel your pain on that one. Thats why they use you for the work, I know thats why I stay in buisness. Good luck I think you be ok though.
We were having issues with the S/O Flange pulling/warping towards the outside fillet. We ended up bolting a flange to it with a 1/8" to 1/4" spacer in between. Tighten bolts till s/o flange pulls slightly inward, weld, let cool, remove bolts.
They were 12" and 16" s/o flanges (duplex sch. 40). Called for 1/4" inside fillet, and 5/8" outside fillet. 5/8" seemed like overkill to me but that's what the pencil pushers wanted.
