When I was a welder, I used to drag downhill with a bit of push inward. Imagine putting enough downward pressure on the tip of the rod to flex it ever so slightly. As a general rule, I used a tight gap with a small root face (land) and ran rather hot.
As far as specifics, as has been stated, that depends on the variables (size, wall thickness, etc) in your situation and procedure.
Like Artic510 said I too have a slight drag. Actually put my pointer finger over the top of the stinger and push down on the rod while the tip gets flexed up from dragging it downward. My gap about a hair less than 3/32, land about the same. I think one of the guys on here helped me out and said, " a penny land, penny gap with the 1/8" rod and preferred a nickel gap and nickel land with a 5/32". I think that's how he explained it. Seems everyone is different though, some guys use a thinner land and close the gap and crank the heat up, other guys have more land and gap. It's just what works for you.
Kind of funny that your web site is for people that need help or advice and you are on this site doing the same. Do the people on your site have to pay for your services?
i agree with brian, somethings not right.
A valid point you are making. I'm always looking for tips and ideas from others...last time I checked, asking questions is how you learn! I realized a long time ago that no one knows everything about anything, and that certainly includes me. I do on-site welding training and I am always looking for information to better equip me to help others. And no, I do not charge for advice....just on-site training.
Well I guess you can't knock a guy for trying better his knowledge base. All I can say it that you came to the right forum to do that, maybe we should have some other visitors for knowledge ( those from D.C. ). But then again I don't think there is much hope for those folks!!!!!!
Knowledge is not a prerequisite for Washington.
And that my friend has been proven!!!!!!!!!!
"I realized a long time ago that no one knows everything about anything, and that certainly includes me."
Let me add, I've been involved in welding for over 30 years. I've welded, trained welders, been a consultant, and supervised, and I still learn something every single time I log on here. In fact, it seems to me the more I learn the less I know.
So, whats so unusual?
Hi guy well seeing how the other got a mile off helping you with a the political woos I thought i would through some pics in to may be give some insight and see how the other beat me up for showing these pics of my welds but I will help as I can I am always learning and would like so insight on my stuff as well so here we go
1 st pic is root supposed to look like a rope laid in I also have some set up pics to I am always practicing for a test I hope to have soon some down hill and some up all in 6 G position I have found this to be the hardest and most of your test will be in this position heres the first round of pics
sorry for the first two my camera is not that great on some close ups here are some more of the root and hot pass
ok and here are some finished cap 7018 up hill one bead cap I am still working on running it nice and straight but for the most part I think I have it but would like some opinions on that I have it at or under a nickel high for the most part It took me a while to figure out the heat settings to run it properly the who 6 G thing fun fun
I just though I would throw this to the wolves to get some insight I what I need to in prove on and maybe help out some others who need to see to do like me thank guys I look forward to you comments Plus I am working on tightening up my weave on my cap pass
Nice pic's I may put some of my own when I fig. it out how.
Here's a tip, always run stringers on your cap in 6G position. on 6" sch40 pipe id shoot for a 3 bead cap but no less than 2 beads. The only weld you should run a weave cap on is a sch40 or 80 bellhole and if its sch120 or thicker run stringers.
The problem I am having with stringers on this particular test is the stringers get two high off the pipe three would be two high
the 6 g position for testing dose not allow a weave cap of 7018
In the down hill with 5/16 rod I can nail it perfect with a one bead cap all day long 5p+
But I thank you for the advice
I am going to keep at it till I get every little detail down with all rod and up or down
How wide are the max you can get a cover cap weave or stringer
Rule of thumb 2 1/2 times the diameter of the rod your using.
That's a good word, js55! I've been in the trade 39 years and over 25 of it has been training. It has always been my intent to learn something everywhere I go, and I usually do. There's always a better way or a better technique for everything. And even though what I do may work for me, it doesn't mean it will work for someone else. This forum is an incredible learning tool for anyone who wants to learn. Life's way to short to think you've got it all figured out! Thanks for all the great feedback, guys!
The root looks good that's for sure! I have to admit your weave cap looks better than anything I've put down....which is why I run stringers, actually still working on my 6g. What I've been trying on sch. 120 is build up from the low side of the position towards the top and when I get out to the final passes I do the same thing. Start at the bottom side of the weld and stack them on top towards the top of the weld.....if that makes any sense, let gravity work with you more or less. Seems to be working for me and real close but as I said, no expert by any means still have more hood time.
I've been running a lot of 1/8" 5p+ on my downhill, actually did my test on the 12" 1/4" wall with 1/8" 5P+, but the other day I used a 3/16" 8010g just to experiment on the cap and actually liked the bigger rod, did'nt have to work it so much to tie in the edges like the 1/8".
I have pics of my downhill stuff and I think they look good, but when I tested, what the lab called the "king of the stick welders" had a 12" branch in the scrap bin and I just looked at his weld in amazement. I passed all the tests, tensile, bend and so on but his welds were just about perfectly matched.
Mr. Vantage. You can slick that weave out a bit more by slowing down your movements. Hard for me to explain on a computer, but I can see you are leaving the puddle behind. The rod cant force the puddle anywhere. It can only lead.
With respect,
Rick
I also have the opinion that you can handle a few more amps.
Just observations as you were asking. No knocks.
Listen to Rick ! He is as good as they get ! His passes look like a machine did it !
I will I just sent him a PM and will listen to the fullest thank you cactus
what i try to do when im making a 7018 cap is leave my filler pass some what low, but still catch the bevels. then i try to run the rod like a side ways figure 8 or the symbol for infinity, you are going to want to fill it and stack it at the same time. keep it tight and it will stack up round and smooth.
thank you I am going to do a few different thing to tighten it up I see what you are saying about the figure 8 sideways
Kinda hesitant on posting my amatuer'ish downhill picks, but perhaps I can get some input as far as good or bad and it'll give you an idea as well. They are a bit rusted, been sitting outside in the going to scrap pile for over a month now. These are off my 12" butt test. As stated, they passed but I guess some thoughts from old hands with the experienced eye would be good too.
Look good to me. Carry on.
i would watch out for those 2 small pin holes on the sides in the first 2 pics....some people will bust you for them. im not trying to nit pick you, just trying give you a heads up!
I said the same in a PM. Yep, they'll get ya.
Nice caps but where's the bottom straps?
i have to make a repair on a 16" line next week and if i have enough time i'll try to get some pics of the work and post them up on here. I dished it out i can take it too!
I think i saw some arc burns the weld looks good but they will bust you for the arc burns.
HERES TODAYS run I just did a 5 G fixed run 7018 up and fill 6010 down root and hot pass and cut through the welds on the others I did last week and don't see any trapped slag in the cuts at all I don't know how true that holds but I cut through welds before and seen all the bad stuff trapped let me know what you think good or bad
Thank you
Bear
hey 500man. When you cap do this. First if you are using a 3/32 7018 run at 90 amps for cap. Get the bevel filled about 1/16th under flush. When you strik up, strike it about 1in from the bottom, drag you rod, and when you start it will be hot enought to start lacing. Now when you start to cap it, make like you are writing the letters A. So its kinda like a upside down horse shoe. Make sure you weld ties in good on you side, and dont stop or pause when you are lacing. Keep it moving and watch that puddle. It should look like one big puddle.
If you are using 1/8th rod. Leave 1/16 bevel showing and ru you machine at 120-130. the pipe should be hot enough. and lace it moving side to side and dont hold back on your sides.
This should help you put a slick cap on there. When i get some pics i will post them for you.
I always did the kinda like a Z motion when capping it I don't quite understand the A formation although have heard of guys doing the upside down horseshoe and i think I did try it once and it seemd to work pretty good but never did it on pipe. I need to give it a try sometime again
Thanks for explaining Tyler
once you get it right, that cap will come out slick as oWl $HIT! and also comes out nice and squar! once you get it right, you qc will love it!
hey tyler wonder who taught you how to cap like that lol
pipe i am working on is sch 40 if that question was for me
here is some pics of downhand and some lo hi. The gooseneck hitch is my design. It actuates from an air valve in the cab of the truck!
ibeweld- what part of the country was that pipeline going thru? It really looks like north of 40 with all that black spruce in the background.
In colorado hand two years ago
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