depending on the rod , it runs real cose to the same settings as the same size 7018
Hello Tom, can you identify the rod by it's manufacturer? If so, you might consider Googling it and trying to find out the manufacturers suggestions for it's use first-off. Barring that, the majority of nickel-based rods that I have been around run similar amperages to that of stainless rods. The manifold that you are welding, is it a "well used" one? I ask that because exhaust manifolds will typically be some of the most challenging repair jobs you can run into due to the heat cycling that most have been subjected to. The carbon tends to collect and group up within the part and doesn't allow for a ready coalescence of the filler and base materials. You may also see the bead pulling away from it's toes and stacking towards the middle and see a fair amount of porosity as well. There are a number of previous threads on the forum here that are pretty detailed in how you might be successful in this repair, you may want to search some of them to check them out. Good luck and best regards, Allan
thanks to ya'll as well! i enjoy reading all the info. yes it is a manifold. thanks for the good luck. i'm goggleing as we speak
By KFab
Date 07-27-2009 01:10
Edited 07-27-2009 01:15
I preheat to 200-600, then wrap it in kwool or some kinda of fiberglass blanket. I had to pick some nickle rod up to weld some ventura tubes but they where castiron, . Oh and prep is important its pretty hard to get a nice bead at least in position on a pipe weld there isnt alot of penetration.
Nickel SAE 2015 0.10 to 0.20 Up to 300 F Up to 149 C
SAE 2115 0.10 to 0.20 200-300 F 93-149 C
SAE 2315, 2320 0.15 to 0.20 200-500 F 93-260 C
SAE 2330, 2340 0.30 to 0.40 400-600 F 204-315 C
Not as hot as you would think or the flux will heat and peel off it and you'll have pitting worse on the bead and edges. Keep the rod warm and dry before using it. Preheat your manifold and if welding on ear make a jig plate to help hold that ear on with. Don't weld it all at once doing a little at a time and then ping the weld and let it all cool slow. I've buried manifolds or cast in damp sand before and had no more cracking. They were cast and cured in sand then ovens. That square cast rod used with a torch or heli arc is better sometimes than the nickel rod if can find it. Get the orange Harris flux for it too if use cast rod. Drill small holes at the ends of cracks to stop the runners from traveling more before welding on it. You don't have to drill those holes all the way through always.