Shooting "Nelson Studs" on a 60° angle

Date 08-10-2009 16:48

if they did make ferrules for this 60 degree angle you want what would keep it from sliding across the plate when you pulled the trigger. Undoubtedly you haven't shot many studs knowing about is a lot different than knowing how or the principals of.
The ferrule you mention that allow shooting on a piece of angle isn't for shooting a stud at a 45 degree angle it is made to shoot on corners either inside or outside corners. If you need a stud placed on a plate at an angle other than perpindicular to the plate Manual is the way I would do it.
Hope this helped more than hurt.
Have a great day

By Bob Garner (***)

Date 08-10-2009 17:22

These things are routinely tested by being whacked with a sledge hammer and bent over to a 45 degree angle. If the weld doesn't break, they are good to go. Could you just whack them 30 degrees?

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 08-10-2009 18:19

Good question Bob, I don't remember Clause 7 in D1.1 mentioning this situation...however, I will ask the stuf mfg.

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 08-10-2009 18:17

Normally, with something odd like this we would take the manual welding approach, but being that these are plentious on an upcoming job, the uppers thought it would be good to try and shoot them. To answer your question about what keeps them from sliding when you plunge the gun?...in the past we had a machine shop make some attachments out of heavy brass with set/thumb screws to shoot curved deformed anchors(looked like a "J"), these attachments clamped to the piece. No, your post didn't hurt in the least, I'm always trying to keep an open mind about new ways to do routine or mundane tasks to speed us up without sacrificing any quality.

BTW, the ferrule we use is for shooting to the inside/outside of an angle as you said, but it is positioned at a 45° angle to the legs of the angle. Now the stud is shot in the flat position, with that, you are correct

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 08-11-2009 05:20

Maybe You could make a tool that holds the stud at an angle so the pressure is still applied square to the plate. Would the stud need a special shape on the bottom, or would it work with a regular one?

By aevald

Date 08-11-2009 06:23

Hello Dave, one of the problems with Nelson studs is the special "tip" that is located on the end. I have observed that this "tip" appears to be either aluminum or possibly magnesium, I believe it also acts as a stand-off to hold the end at the correct height to allow for maximum fusion when current is applied. If this tip isn't perpendicular to the material when the welding process is initiated it impedes the performance of the stud. Thus, off-camber applications could lead to trouble. If anyone knows more about this part of the Nelson stud I would love to be educated further or corrected if I am wrong. Best regards, Allan

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 08-11-2009 12:46

Allan, They call that tip the flux ball.

By aevald

Date 08-11-2009 12:59

Thanks John, Regards, Allan

By 803056

Date 08-11-2009 13:36

The flux "ball" looks like a nugget of aluminum (to me anyways). It would make sense, the aluminum would flash with the impulse of high current and act as a deoxidizer and possibly as a grain refiner in the weld puddle.

Best regards - Al

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 08-11-2009 14:05

You guys may be right...I dunno, it is soft material. You can flatten it with a hammer really easy.

Nelson's site just says that the flux ball is a "solid flux load"...doesn't say what it's made of.

Attachment: HeadedstudsH4L.pdf (97k)

By Mikeqc1 (****)

Date 08-11-2009 14:54

A fastener and ceramic ferrule are firmly placed against the work surface under spring tension. Upon triggering, the weld gun automatically lifts the fastener from the base metal and initiates a controlled electric arc which melts the end of the fatener and a portion of the base metal. A ceramic arc shield concentrates the heat and retains the molten material in the weld area for maximum weld strength and reliability. At the precise moment the fastener and the parent metal become molten, the fastener is automatically plunged into the work surface. The metal solidifies and a high quality fusion weld is completed.
MDK
A LITTLE INFO ON STUD WELDING

By aevald

Date 08-11-2009 16:37

Hello Mike, thanks for the rundown. It's funny how I often use some things and haven't taken the time to really understand how they work in detail. Best regards, Allan

By Mikeqc1 (****)

Date 08-11-2009 17:43

When I first got into stud welding I had the most horrific time getting quality welds out of the shop.
The gun they had wasn’t serviced in years! The lift was wrong the plunge was slow and the arc blow (lack of a better term) was killing me.
MDK

By Mikeqc1 (****)

Date 08-12-2009 18:10

http://www.imageindustries.com/pdf/arc_welders_guide.pdf

MORE
MDK

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 08-24-2009 14:09

Hi Guys,
I've been busy the past few weeks and out on vacation last week, but here is an update on our situation with shooting the studs on an angle to flat plate.

We ended up getting the misc contractor to pick up this item, but I have some info regarding this to post up to keep you guys in the loop as to what I found out about this operation.

Nelson Stud Welding does not make a 60° angle ferrule, however they do make a 45° ferrule that will allow you to shoot the studs to a flat plate on a 45° angle. So this will allow for less bending of the stud by shooting at a 45° angle then straightening up 15° with a pipe(or BFH) to the achieve the 60° angle required. This operation does require the use of the heavy duty gun like we have here in our shop to achieve a sufficient gun travel and the use of a fabricated stop to prevent the stud from sliding. You will also need a special "split" ferrule grip to hold the ferrule if you don't already have it.

Attached is a pdf that I recieved from Nelson Stud Welding regarding thier product.

Attachment: Studweldingon45degreeangle.pdf (322k)