309 Test

Date 10-28-2009 14:19

I'm guessing your saying the coupons are carbon and the filler metal is 309? Purge it for the root and hot and slather it full,If you don't purge it it will sugar the deposited filler metal..I've got a couple dandy certs p-5 to p-5 stick(stainless) all the way and p-8 to p-8 stick all the way out on 2 inch pipe,the root pass is a MOTHER you know what on the P-8(monel)

By js55

Date 10-28-2009 14:42

Monel is either P-42 or P-34.

By F-17

Date 10-29-2009 02:53

My bad,there's so many P #'s flying around at work I personally think it's way easier to keep it straight by calling it by the name,Inco,Carpenter 20,Monel,Hastelloy,chromes,stainless, But the SMAW procedure for 2" monel pipe flat out SUCKS.I switched from contract working at one refinery to being employed by another,one outfit called everything by namethis new outfits all about the P's.Been a year and I still get them all cornfused.The one joint would never think about sticking a alloy joint from root to cap and this new one is fine with it.Whatever peels their taters I guess,all I know is it's messy business.The lead welder said in the old days when they were welding the crap with stick they had a 75% repair rate he said you'd just keep grinding it out and fixing till it shot good,ICK!

By js55

Date 10-29-2009 12:29

I've never found a Monel SMAW electrode than ran worth a s$#t. We used to call it Monel hell. IMO perhaps the most difficult welding technique to acquire. Its the Cu.

By scrappywelds (***)

Date 10-29-2009 22:27

The wps tells you everything you need to know, but I have tested plenty without a wps. Purge until weld is complete about 25 cfm, torch about 25cfm, make sure to tape off the joint completely remove tape as needed, and vent the top to expell all the air. Watch your root gap I like a 1/8", stainless shrinks it will be a 3/32" or smaller the last quarter. Start with your hardest quarter. Watch the suckback on the bottom. After the root, let it cool all the way down to the touch.Make sure to brush all the color off each weld layer. Take your time 309L doesn't want to flow when its too hot. I always do a test pass on a scrap peice in postion to check my amps.

By F-17

Date 10-29-2009 23:33

I thru feed everything with a landing so a gap for me on 2 inch is 3/16 that sucks up to 5/32.The great thing about thru feeding is that the bottom is never shy,as you get to the top the gap closes some and then I backfeed the top quarters and stitch the end up with the keyhole method.This way begets a root that you can really lay a hog of a hotpass on without sucking it back.I turn the purge off after the hot pass is on,for the hot pass I have it turned way down(about 5 cfm) so the pressure doesn't try to push back.

By F-17

Date 10-29-2009 23:46

You got it right on the rods,brand new cans freshly opened and about one out of three runs decent.I passed it and got the cert but told the inspection department that I WOULD NEVER use that procedure.The tig procedure I did for monel took all of 25 minutes.The stick test I used all three hours.I think the stuff welds just fine if your tiging it. it's a weird looking puddle with what appears to be a bunch of trash in it.I think it's very similar to Carpenter 20.I'd never welded monel before I got hired for the job and the lead welder told me it welded like nothing else and that it was pretty difficult to weld even with tig.I ran a quick root the afternoon before my test to see for myself,It went so good that I opted to just take the test versus practice with it for a day.I slammed out a stainless stick,monel tig,6 inch sch 160 carbon and a 2 inch carbon tig root,hotpass,7018 fill and cap gunbarrel 2"(5/8 wall) in one day.

By Tyler1970 (***)

Date 10-30-2009 00:26

PUrge it to bout 40 psi on ur little cupons. The run a wide 5/32 gap. and drip the bead in. it will come out nice where your can count the change!