Welding rod storage

By ssbn727 (*****)

Date 02-27-2010 14:26

Hi Shawn!

You say E-6010, but are you really meaning to say E-7018 low hydrogen rods instead? I ask this because if one wants to reseal rods from an open can, and don't have a rod oven to put the rest in, then your idea could be a good along with throwing in a moisture absorbing bag of? (My memory is failing me this morning, so I apologize. ;) ) along with the low hydrogen electrodes, could be a good one at that at least on a temporary basis! ;)

However, the best way to go is to use either a heated quiver or a rod oven, and the cheaper, less expensive way to go (Some may argue with me with this point, but if one is creative and has access to cheap surplus military parts - it becomes very doable! ;) ) would be to use a very good (Modify it somewhat to radically improve the sealing capability in order to maintain a vacuum) sealing fridge and install a higher than normal wattage light bulb in it along with installing a vacuum pump that would pump out any remaining moisture within the atmosphere inside the fridge, along with a vacuum gauge mounted on the outside, or a vacuum sensor electrically connected to the pump in a manner which would trigger the pump to start once the vacuum reached a certain point, and therefore save on having the pump working all the time...

You could probably do the same with the higher wattage bulb inside as well by installing a light intensity sensor within the fridge an into the circuit so that you could also regulate the light intensity in order to prevent overheating as well, or just disregard the whole idea and use the bulb that came with the fridge in the first place and store the hermetically resealed plastic bagged rods in the fridge as is!!!! ;) Unless you live in an area where there's an usually high level of humidity most of the year... I wouldn't worry about doing the same for E-6010 electrodes. ;)

Respectfully,
Henry

By 522029

Date 02-27-2010 15:31

Henry,
Dessicant may be the word that is escaping you at the moment.

Griff

By ssbn727 (*****)

Date 02-27-2010 15:58

That's it!!! :) :) :) Thanks Friend!!! ;)

Respectfully,
Henry

By 522029

Date 02-27-2010 23:57

Henry,
Sometimes, dessicant is also referred to as silica gel.

Griff

By strother (***)

Date 02-28-2010 01:18

I tried the fridge thing ( just the light bulb not all the other stuff ) but I had to replace the bulb every week . I finally bought a rod oven for
7018 . As for 6010 I buy them in 10lb cans 3 cans to a box they cost a little more that way but Its worth it to have a fresh can when you need it. I live in Georgia (lots of humidity) a 6010 chalky in a few days!

By shorthood2006 (****)

Date 02-27-2010 14:32 Edited 02-27-2010 14:37

shawn,,, all rod will draw moisture. if you remove all the oxygen....it has to work ..in my opinion. I only open one box at atime. 6010 wheather its 5p or 5p+ will draw moisture..that is the white chalky power that comes off on your gloves...seal it up and it will be fine.
good idea!

By 803056

Date 02-27-2010 16:46

The refrigerator with light bulbs will work for everything but the low hydrogen electrodes. However (there is always a however, like the advertisements now polluting the forum page), you need to a hole in the fridge, at the very top of the cabinet to allow for some circulation of air to allow the moisture to escape.

Use two incandescent bulbs so that when one burns out there is one to carry on until you can replace the dead bulb. The air heated by the warm incandescent bulb (not one of the new fangled mercury laden fluorescent tubes) will be less dense and will rise to the top of the cabinet. The warmer air will entrain more moisture, which will be carried out of the cabinet if allowed to escape through a drilled hole. Without the hole in the top of the cabinet, the moisture-laden air will have no place to escape and will only hasten the corrosion process thereby destroying your electrodes.

If you drill a second small hole just beneath the light bulbs you will permit a controlled amount of air to flow of air through the cabinet. Only a small hole, maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 inch diameter hole, is needed at the bottom of the cabinet where as the top hole should be about 3/8 inch in diameter. After all, you do not want the bottom hole to allow large volumes of moist air to rush into the cabinet, but enough that there is some flow of moisture-laden air out the top of the cabinet. I would start with small holes and enlarge them if you find a larger hole will work better in your geographical region.

As for the vacuum-sealed bags, they will work until breached by the sharp edges of one of the electrodes. Maybe you could wrap the ends with a layer or two of plastic wrap before placing them into the plastic bags. Do not forget that cardboard or plastic wrap are hydrocarbons and they will introduce hydrogen into the weld puddle. If the rods are placed into the bags and then left in the cabinets of a truck, the constant vibration will cause the rods to rub against the plastic and the residue produced will stay on the flux covering until consumed in the welding arc. Storage in the fridge with the light bulbs will work as long as there is sufficient distance between the plastic bags and the light bulbs.

Best regards - Al

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By FixaLinc (****)

Date 03-01-2010 02:24

Al, That's all good have seen lots of old refrigerators done that way. All I want to add is make darn sure your roof isn't going to leak above it or put a shelf or ledge above that frig door and gasket. Got a leak above mine after a hail storm :(

By weldwade (***)

Date 02-27-2010 17:52

Shawn I bought a roll of Mylar for this purpose and am happy with it so far. I wrap the ends with paper so they dont puncture the bag when I vacuum the air out. This is the same stuff that Stoody uses on their hardface rod I buy. All I can say is it works for me.