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Anyone have some good advice relating to beading 10"x.500wall on a 6g with 5/32 70+? Got a 70+ mixed in with my 5P+ one time while beading, and it didn't take long to break that arc! Haven't done it since. Now, they're telling us to.
we have to now. I just gap a little wider and about +5 on my amps. did yall switch codes we welded 5p+ on api1104 now we weld to asme b 31.9 tomorrow it will probally change to something else. lol They say we weld by b 31.9 but last time x ray was out they shot to 1104 and i called them on it. they said just write the code in the box and cross the 1104 out. this is the same company that wanted us to weld up 3" xxxh then test to 15k pounds above ground so they could look for leaks! lmao
Never used it, but ASME B31.9 is for industrial, commercial/public buildings, and multi-unit residences.
I've worked under B31.1, 31.3 and B31.5 (refrigeration). Plus there are at least 7 other ASME "B31.x" codes.
Just as AWS has many D1.xx codes
I can understand shooting to 1104 to B31.4 and B31.8.
B31.9 does not make sense.
dbigkahunna,
I agree with you on that. BUT, when it comes to Owner expectations, Jr. engineers, and Contract specs. I've long since given up on trying to rationalize their requirements. Like shooting pipe welds on open-ended drains (downstream of the valve) going into floor trenches.
I just wanted to let others know that there are several ASME B31 codes besides the Big 2... B31.1. and B31.3.
Been on powerplants and have Supervisors ask me if this is a B31.3 job. WTF???
15k?!?! I hope they weren't planning on using their hands to feel for leaks. It would be the last time they did.lmao
yea its 31.9. stupid aint it. now we are going to test running low hy bead all the way out.
I've taken that one too. We couldn't even use a backing plate. Only thing I could think of doing was to tighten up the gap between the landings. After I finished filling up the bevel, I flipped it over and grinded out any slag and filled that in. Good luck.
WRONG!!!!
Open Root 7018 you close up that gap, you are not going to get penetration. It aint pipelinin. You are not going to push the bead in.
The gap should be as large or slightly larger than the rod you are running the bead with. The landing should be the maximum allowed by the WPS. The heat should be set where the roddoes not need to be moved side to side to tie in. You run too hot you want to go side to side.
If you have a real inspector, all you get to do is buff the bead. No grinding. You cant put it in from the outside, you cant climb inside to make it pretty.
You do not want to key hole your root using 7018. You can try to keep the puddle in front of the rod and use slight circular ocellation.You can also try straight polarity on the root As the Big K said tight gap large land.
No, not a tight gap!
You need a wide gap and a wide land. The weld metal will do what it needs.
You set the heat where it melts the land and stop!
to dbigkahunna,
You are right on!
Took this this test for a Nuke in Nebraska way back when, and the only way to go is "loose and low" ie. big gap and low amps.
What worked for me (and the plant hands that did it every day) was to go for a "u" slow whip/oscillation and wide gap.
Worse case scenario for us hot rooters used to E6010 and tight gap!
I feel your pain, cuz this is NOT a lazy mans root.
I realize it is proprietory info, but I wish I could read the specs that call for such rigid criteria on a ASME B 31.9 gig.
My dealings with these type projects, have mostly been.."git-er done" and the city/county Inspector aint gonna know any different.
I played with it at work today. I am running kobe 7016 all the way. the first couple I set with reg gap looked like poo poo. then used the rod w/o flux on it as a spacer and a 3/32 land it went alot better. still couldnt drag it up the bevel had to kinda step it in there. I asked the guru what it was to look like on the inside he said i dunno LOL. I guess I will see tomorrow. one thing for sure it will pass or fail and they cant eat ya!
sounds like another college educated,kinfolk inspector to me
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