I'm just wanting to see if this is just because I only have about 3 years experience or if this is just a common type of thing. Maybe when I have 20 years under my belt this won't happen? I've been running pretty much 7018 for the last 7-8 months or better. Been using the 6010 for things such as, gate hinges, dumpster enclosures etc but nothing serious. I've been working all week on my 5g downhill for gas pipe and was having issues with things that I don't ever recall having issues with before. In my mind I know what needs to be done but seems like getting that to my "accustomed to 7018 hand" does not work right away. Have been doing a bunch of ironwork, structural lately. It's weird because transitioning from Mig or Tig to stick does not seem to have the effect like switching from 7018/6010. When I go to tig a root, seems I get better the longer I'm away from it?? Last one I did was all the way through, I had some spots that were thicker because I was adding to much filler at the top but it was 100% better than the time before. But never seemed like I was "confused" as what it seems with the 7018/6010. Does this make sense??? Maybe I'm just an idiot??
Is this a common thing, maybe not for seasoned welders but is it common? You get used to one rod(7018) and then making the transition to another(6010)? In my short experience I have compared welding rod to people, they have their own characteristics. I've thought about uphill guys using 6010/7018 and then thought, well, they're not capping with 6010 so maybe the confusion with the hand is kept to a minimal because it's just being used on a stringer for the root, not much different than how you would manipulate a 7018 for the most part. I noticed I was trying to "flow" a puddle on the hot pass and that's when I noticed trouble. Fighting the slag, not laying out properly, moving to slow in the groove. Almost like I was trying to run a vertical fillet with a 7018 except in the wrong direction! It does not seem like it should be so hard to transition but is it? I know what I'm doing wrong, know how to fix it, just trying to get my hand back in the program sort of speak. I tried to tell myself it was my setting on my ranger but know for a fact that what I set it at is what I have always set it at with a 1/8th 6010. I found my cap and even went with a 5/32 of which I have used very little.....well, this week. I did pass my 12" butt yesterday so I'm getting it back but this week was interesting for sure. You know you can do it, you've done it a few months before(yeah, a few LOL) but still you f'k something up that you know you should not have done, you know better but yet there it is.
So, is this something we all experience? Or is it just me? In my mind it makes sense, you get accustomed to it, how it flows, works then basically switching to a complete opposite, direction and all. What are your thoughts, you seasoned welders? As usual thank you for your wisdom oh wise and seasoned veterans of the welding world!
Shawn
Shawn,
30 odd years ago I worked on a major pipeline in New Zealand.
The welders were on huge money and they were very good - probably the best at that time in Australasia (Kiwis, Aussies, Brits, Yanks, Canucks).
When the pipeline finished the company we were working for won a major portion of a US$1 billion dollar (big money in 1980) Methanol Project.
The pipeline welders were offered work on this refinery project but they had to pass a structural weld test - vertical up with 7018.
Out of 20 pipeline welders who had been on megabucks only 3 could pass a basic vertical up weld test with 7018s.
Advice I was given 30 odd years ago was if you were swapping between 6010 vertical down and 7018 vertical up - forget everything you have learnt about one when you start another.
I have welded both for 20 odd years and that advice has worked well for me.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Shane
Shawn,
Your right.. They are totally different...
Rod angles are slightly different. Travel speed is different. 5P is way more sensative to current changes.
Inductance/Dig settings are on totally different ends of the scale.. Minimum dig for the low-hy and more toward max for the 5P,, especially on open roots... The panel controls can be a bit different with the Lincoln engine drives, but the theory behind it is the same.
The more time you spend with each the better you will get at reading the differences in the puddle and how to control the puddle with both machine settings and technique..
I think one of the best ways to begin to get tuned in with the 5P (if you don't have a supply of beveled pipe) is to cut 2" x 6" x 3/16" plane carbon steel plate, tack with 3/32" to 1/8" open root butts and work on full pen single pass open root welds from one side in all positions.. It's a good "pre-pipe" exercise that really forces you to control your power supply and read the puddle with both your eyes your ears and your touch.
Carrying big 5P cap puddles with large diameter electrodes is something else altogether and there are people here who can better address that than I can.
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