single axle trailer

Date 09-08-2002 22:28

Use a straight edge on the outside of the tubing ,extending past the end of the spindle and measure from the straight edge to the threads on the spindle, side to side.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 09-09-2002 04:42

If you buy an axle you will find that it has a little camber built in. Usually by bending the axle so the middle is higher than the outside ends. Result is that the wheel is about 1/8" further out at the top than the bottom. Fore and aft it should be square. Rear wheel spindles from front drive cars almost always bolt on. If you drill the plates before welding them on you can then bolt on the spindles thus avoiding any problems which might arise from welding unknown alloy with unknown heat treatment.

To attach the plates- tack the front/bottom, check and adjust fore and aft squareness (a carpenters framing square and a tape should do it well enough), tack rear/bottom, set top to bottom squareness allowing a little for camber (use a feeler gauge or some improvised gauge between the plate and the blade of the square, it is more important that both sides are the same than that they have any particular value (within reason), tack the top. Recheck then weld. Remember the order and direction you weld in and duplicate that when you weld the other side.

If you are less than confident in your welding ability look up northern hydraulic (or I'm sure lots of others) and buy an axle. Lost wheels are dangerous.

Bill

By dee

Date 09-09-2002 04:53

Bill,
you may haqve heard of a hit song written by Kenny Rogers a couple decades ago subsequent to a disasterous event of similar nature, off a NJ turnpike exit local to me.

Upon extricating him from the wreckage and reviving him, he began to sing "you picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel"

Or words to that effect.
d

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 09-10-2002 04:03

Good one

By dee

Date 09-09-2002 04:47

To add to bhiltzs remark:

Naturally, a jig of some sort is necessary.
Long squares and straight edges are more accurate than short ones if used properly.
You have a horizontal and verticle axis to align.
Expect to have to readjust after your tack welds; be sure to verify your positioning and retest for square often. Weld heat can cause the metal to move. An angle grinder serves well as an eraser; consider accessability as you place your tack welds.

Square tubing is permitted to have a certain amount of irregularity in it's shape according to ASTM A500; do not presume it to be truely straight. If you bought it at a hardware store or scrap yard or if damaged during storage it may not conform to minimum specifications. It will be necessary to verify and square to the average you may determine with the aid of a line. Note that a line (or string) is the method recommended for verifying Hollow Steel Sections by the industry. (think of how to square spindles welded to the ends of a simple hunting bow)
Also a certain amount of concavity or convexity in the side wall is permitted. Be aware that this can cause difficulty when aligning a straight edge or square.

After the first 50 or so it becomes easy.

Happy Trails
d

By RonG

Date 09-16-2002 13:51

In other words Align the Spindles to each other not the Tube. You can mount wheels on each end (minus the tires) and measure across front, back, top and bottom then Square the assembly to the Frame.

BUT DON'T WELD if you intend to use it on the highways. There are laws that can hold you accountable. There are even laws that tell you what grade of bolt is required and it is'nt Grade 3 like you get at the local hardware.

By dee

Date 09-16-2002 17:53

Ron,

You do properly understand what I was trying to say. I believe logic will support the sound thinking behind it.

I believe Bill merely suggested they not be welded under a specific circumstance; it makes sense to me and sounds like not only good advice but also a means of fine-tuning your alignment with the aid of shims, if permissible, as some vehicle manufacturers already do.

I am not an engineer, nor am I familiar with applicable codes and standards or regulations. Your question becomes too specific for me to comment further with reliability. Casually I'd suggest your impressions can be functionally, albeit perhaps loosely interpreted as correct, if not more so.

I do work with an engineer or two from time to time and I occasionally am criticized for over-building. It is a family tradition of which I am proud and although I am sometimes chided for my caution, it also is one reasion I am chosen for the work; it might be described as quality. (others who know me say I dont know how to use a stress table... but only with a smile)

Be advised the grade of nut must match or exceed the grade of bolt, and there are torque tables which should perhaps be referenced.

Regards,
d

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 09-17-2002 05:11

Just to clarify-

I mentioned rear spindles from front drive cars because they are often used for this purpose. I assumed Haybine would do the same.

I meant to describe a method whereby one would build an axle with two plates on the ends to which one would the bolt the spindles thus avoiding any problems which might result from welding to unknown material in unknown state of heat treatment.

I assumed the use of appropriate bolts and nuts.

Again- These are highly stressed parts with no redundancy utmost caution is advised.

Bill

By haybine Date 09-17-2002 12:20

thanks for all the great information. currently i am exploring my options of a wrecking yard axle from a front wheel drive auto or a ready factory made axle/spindle set from a trailer supply company. cost is the biggest factor. i decided NOT to build my own as there are several factors of alignment of which i would not be able to be sure of. again, thanks to all responders.

By Goose

Date 09-17-2002 16:50

I highly suggest you buy a few trailer design books before you begin your construction. The proper design of a trailer is not as simple of a process as some might think. Many home built trailers are basically junk and can be very dangerous to tow with.

An excellent resource is a series of books written by M.M. Smith entitled "Trailers, How to design & Build", published byTechni-Visions. There is also a volume on how to buy and evaluate trailers which might also be useful.

I'm currently knee deep in the contrustion of a 20' flat deck open car trailer. The design/calculation process took nearly two months to finalize my design. Don't let me talk you out of building your own trailer...it's a great sense of accomplishment to build one yourself, especially when you know you can build one as good, if not better than what's currently being sold on the market. Just be aware that the design needs to be thoroughly thought out as to keep your towing safe and give you a long lasting, useful trailer for your $$$/time spent.

BTW, please go with a pre-manufactured axle assembly and not a used car/impliment axle. I did some checking and small 2000 lb capacity axle with hubs & leaf springs can be bought for as little as $129. Why waste time searching though junk yards for a junk axle assembly?