Ok, so been welding my yams off here lately. I think I've seen the light. I own a ranger 8 as most know. Lately though I've been noticing that it seems like everyday or every couple days it seems just a tick different on the welds. Running the gas pipe I was laying down some gorgeous caps. This week had to work at it a bit more and not so gorgeous. Same settings as before, doing the same motions I did before and results different. I'd like to say it was me, but I'm thinking that it's not the welder but the welder.
This is the education part, I'm guessing this is the unreliable part of the air cooled machines? Is this a normal thing for air cooled? Less stable arc, not as uniform on the amperage variations? The last few days I've been thinking of how bad I want to get these jobs done....I am so ready to get a real machine. Guy I'm talking to is going to wire it for a remote and looks like Bill's has got just what I need over there. Any suggestions on power inverters? Sizes? To run grinders, porta band, hammer drill?
ok, that's it.....
Shawn
Hey Shawn, how long has your can of wire been open. If it's been a week or two it's could be the wire. When it had been open for a couple months it turns to crap and some of the things you discribe are signs of old wire- Ted
Shawn,
As you know I got that ole '69 SA. I've run alittle bit of everything off what little aux. power it makes. I don't have an inverter wired up, yet. Just run AC/DC tools off the SA and you'll be fine. Don't run any variable speed tools off the ole girl and they'll live along life. VRS+DC= No workie for long. I've ran my chopsaw, numerous grinders and portaband. Just make sure they're single/2 speed portabands.
By Cumminsguy71 
Date 10-02-2010 17:40
Edited 10-02-2010 18:00
That might be it Ted. It's not that old maybe a week but, wait, thinking about the other job. I like to use a new can,(6010) when I go out on the gas job. Besides that, in a day I can pretty much use up a 10lb'r. Tommy might have something though...poor air cooled getting a heck of a workout here lately!
Shawn I do not think it is necessarily "air cooled" but the "full size" heavier machines have much heavier generator sets....bigger windings, brushes, heavier electrical parts all the way round, more money spent on the design even. It is also a pretty accepted "fact, belief" the DC only machines are just more stable and consistent whether portable or shop. Course you might be just wearing that ranger out with all the work man!! No idea on inverters, my machine has a good ac gen.
I was thinking about that to Tommy, got the generator for the 52' in the shop floor and looking at the ranger the Sa is twice the size...easily. You also may be right on the wearing it out!! Probably the most that machine has run consistantly in it's lifetime, 5 weeks straight, 8-10 hour days!
1800 watts is 15 amps at 120 volts, so an invertert that can actually make 1800 watts continuously will run any normal power tool.
Wire the 12 volt side with 2/0 welding cable. An 1800 watt inverter will pull 180 amps at 12 volts with 15 amps output, You need heavy cable to minimumize voltage drop in the wire and connections.
Check to be sure the charger can tolerate inverter power befor using one to recharge portable tool batteries, some are OK with it, others will burn out.
I have a lot of first hand experience with Heart brand inverters, they hold up really well. If You go with a cheap import, You will probably get what You pay for.
Thanks Dave, that's good information to have.
By DaveBoyer
Date 10-04-2010 02:12
Edited 10-04-2010 02:24
I just made up the power cables for a friend who is installing a Xantrex brand 1800 watt inverter in His boat. This company purchased the Heart and Trace brands years ago, they have great experience with this technology.
You will do fine with a modified sine wave unit, they are cheaper and generally perform better running motors than the true sine wave type.
The one My friend got has a built in power transfer switch, this isn't needed for the way You intend to use it, but would not hurt anything.
He found the best price at Northern Tool.
Are the cables getting "hot" ie undersize for the length and amperage draw? Loose connections; behind the panel at the studs, the stud nuts, quick connects corroded? Cables coiled one day uncoiled the next day? Voltage losses from the studs to the arc? Is that machine a single phase weld output? Does the aux power use affect the weld arc. 9 inch grinder change the arc?
Everything is tight, clean. As far as the aux affecting output I don't have a helper so nobody is running the aux while I'm welding. Might be she needs a tune up, fired her up on friday to finish the boiler job and at idle I could hear a slight stumble. Usually seems to come around when the filter is dirty and the plugs are kaput. Get the new machine and I want to rebuild this carb on the kohler, adjust it. Seems to be a little rich just don't have time to down the welder right now!
I don't believe you can "tinker" with the carb on those machines (epa regs). You will have to replace the carb.
Hey Shawn
Do you think you really need the inverter? I thought that way when I got my first sa, you become used to having the aux power and think you got to have it. In two years I have had to have my miller on the job 3 times for aux back up and thats it. If I need it I just hook up and go. Like someone said just dont us variable speed tools. And whats funny is I just look around and I wil find a AC plug somewhere. Put that little machine on a trailer and go.
Oh yea my cummins that has the surge and miss, well it turns out the head is cracked between the cylinder and fuel rail. Put new fuel cap on and it will pump fuel out on the ground and all kinds of pressure in the tank. 4k later and all I had to do was put a new cap on it to figure it out.
Lots of bad Dodge Cummins mojo going around lately. Put an $800 clutch in mine to fix the pilot bearing, Glacier fuel boss fuel pump. Buddy of mine dropped a valve, took out piston and injector on his 05', he replaced the turbo(didn't have to but good excuse at $1700) on top of the $4000 to fix his engine, then water pump went out, then turbo would not build the 40psi of boost. He found that the guy who did his repair work screwed something up on the intake plate and had a big gap in the gasket causing leak. He fixed that and then it would not run after he got it together. Asked me and I told him it was something he did, recheck your work. Well, $1400 cp3 and new Tst put on and did the same thing. Come to find out the tubes feeding his injectors from the high pressure rail were not torqued properly....his fault. Said it's running great now! Other buddy with an 07' just put a clutch in at 100k, dang Dodge's were dropping like flies here lately!! Good you at least know what the problem is with yours. I've seen some series 60 Detroits crack between the injector hole and the cylinder.
