I need help..!

By cwf07

Date 10-06-2010 01:10

AR 400 welds good you can use 7018 to 11018 clean good and preheat.

By rcwelding (***)

Date 10-06-2010 04:08

I have never run 11018. How does it run up hill.? I have a ton of vertical on this blade. Its hammered..! And I have never cut AR plate. Will a torch eat it up just like mild steel.? I just talked to the owner again a few minutes ago and he wants to go with 2in shanks now instead of 1 1/2. He is going to bring in two 4X8 sheets of the stuff so I have to cut out every shank then bird mouth them into the main 6X6 . Im gana have to buy a biger torch tip. LOL... Its a fun job.. RC

By nevadanick (**)

Date 10-06-2010 12:22

A torch will cut ar 400 just fine, I think 11018 runs just like 7018 but if you have alot of vertical welding i would get some coreshield 8 (fcaw) or take the blade off and lay
it down so you can burn some bigger rods and actually get it done.
At my last employer we would always take them off, lay it down and most all the welding was done with 3/32" NS3M (fcaw) wire, you have to have about a 500 amp machine to run that stuff though. we were usually changing the liner as our d10s were always pushing 631 scrapers.
I would seriously get some coreshield8, it a low hydrogen weld, it will weld circles around smaw, and its awsome for out of position welding.

By TimGary (****)

Date 10-06-2010 12:48

What are pre and post heat requirements for AR?

By rcwelding (***)

Date 10-06-2010 12:49

Its in the field and I dont have a wire feeder for this machine. So it looks like Im going to be spending a few hours with some 110-18.. :) The owner sent me a text msg this morning asking if I could hard face the shanks. So my next question is what hard facing rod runs good in all positions. Its been 10yrs since I hard faced and I dont remeber what I used back then. I just remeber it was a pickle to run out of position.

By FixaLinc (****)

Date 10-07-2010 07:10

Been using Stoody 31 or 19 on chisel plow shanks but you may want to look at their chart and find something higher on the abrasion resistance side. Stoody selection guide and your LWS can help more with that.

Stoody Hardfacing and High Alloy Product Selection Guide

http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_2246_Stoody2102A_Final.pdf

By nevadanick (**)

Date 10-06-2010 02:21

And if you really wana move some metal, NR-232 (lincoln) or Coreshield 8 (esab) works great with ar 400, I always have a roll of the .072" size with me.

Ive had good luck welding ar plate with dual shield (fcaw-g) also, but im usually in field so its fcaw or smaw.

If you read any of the caterpillar repair stuff they will always say to use 11018, which is fine but can be kinda slow sometimes.

By Francisford (**)

Date 10-06-2010 19:57

I worked at a couple of quarrys in oklahoma in the 90's. We burned plenty of 10018m and it always ran like normal old 7018. They would make you gather up your stuff and go to the house if they caught you burning any 6010. We burned lots of stoody hardsurfacing rods too. We would run the stoody as cold as we could so it would stick out a little.

By Superflux (****)

Date 10-07-2010 02:40

7018 works just fine (why spend the $$ for higher alloyed Exxx18 that has minimal added wear resistance?), and if necessary to hardface, use a suitable Stoody electrode (PhilThomas is our in-forum Stoody man) sparingly and only as a "Dam". Remember that dirt will fill in crevices and flow like really cold molases. Keep this in mind when applying Hardface. If you add too much, it will crack. Use sparingly and in a staggered configuration. Pre-heat enough to "Sweat" the sub-structure first, and then the AR plate.
Yes, 6010 and AR do NOT play well together!

By Superflux (****)

Date 10-07-2010 02:46

AR cuts OK with a O/A torch. It's a bit "thicker" ie viscous under the torch, just preheat it from the oposite side of your cut line so you know the heat will get all the way through.

By raftergwelding (*****)

Date 10-07-2010 03:40

Last time i welded AR Pate we cut it w a torch and it cut just fine as far as welding it we ran 7018 then coverd it with 7007. 7007 sucks for up hill i have run 11018 uphil but it has to be run fast or it will fall out on ya

By rcwelding (***)

Date 10-07-2010 23:25

Look into Lincolns Vantage series. I know Cactus hates them with a passion and preferes the Miller Bluestar XX stamp alternative fule turbo edition but I get allong with my Vantage Ok.. LOL..! I ran a Miller Bobcat for along time and compaired to the vantage the air coold machines stink. Thats my 2 cents worth..! Save a bit more and get a machine that has no limitations. That way it will never hold you back from progressing..!

By nevadanick (**)

Date 10-08-2010 03:08

hey man an alternative to hard facing is to weld on some wear material like AR or ARM in fairly narrow strips spaced apart about the same size they are wide, so the dirt will just pack in between them . The ARM is some pretty bad a** stuff it usually comes in plate form its half mild steel and half abrasion resistant magneese somthin, the stuff is almost impossible to wear out, the trick is to hide the welds so dirt packs in around them and they dont wear through. Like others have said hardfacing will crack, and its supposed to, to stress relieve itself. the problem is sometimes the cracks go into the base metal. The ARM is just welded on with 7018 as you only weld on the mild steel portion. You do need a decent plasma to cut this stuff. heres a pic

By rcwelding (***)

Date 10-08-2010 12:26

Thanks for all the info guys. Suppose to start the project tomorrow. getting all the steel today. The customer wanted to buy all the rod to save money which was fine with me. So I have 50lbs of 5/32 and 50lbs of 1/8 inch 110-18 and I am suppose to have 20 lbs of stoody hard facing don't remember the number the rep told me it would work good for this application.

Curious to see how this all welds. Excited to do it.

Phone service on the job is terrible but I'll try and post pictures if I can.

Please feel free to continue to post any more thought or Ideas.

RC

By FixaLinc (****)

Date 10-09-2010 07:29

Kind of like what Nevada is talking about we use some Durachrome caps made of chromium alloys on the chisel plow points and shanks more now instead of hardfacing. The kind we use work fine with just dirt but they break off in rocky soil where hard facing sometimes works better. That's why Stoody shows the impact resistance on their charts too. There are overlay and inserts for construction machinery out there ready made to fit too just weld on.

http://www.norwest-mfg.com/catalog/TIL700.pdf

http://www.escocorp.com/markets/mining/wear_solutions1.html

http://www.escocorp.com/

By d_paul71 (**)

Date 10-08-2010 13:59

Nevada

This is the same material we used on the bottom and sides of dragline buckets. Very good idea.

By morgaweld Date 10-09-2010 05:55

thenx for the advise man,checked out the vantage. Kinda pricy though, which would you recomend better lincoln or miller?

By rcwelding (***)

Date 10-09-2010 23:30

I prefer Lincoln NOW..! I used to be a Miller man but not anymore. Dont get me wrong I still have two Millers but I love my Lincoln..

By morgaweld Date 10-10-2010 03:27

Yeah i went with the ranger 305g. Im gonna start doing work at ranches building corrals and chutes and all that, some structural also, i think this machine should do it, no? Thanks again man!