So after reading the post "Another possible use for your oxy-acet torch", i decided to try to remove a backing bar with an oxidizing flame. First i tried a Victor #2, i attempted to start on the side of a 1" x 3/8" A36 backing bar. The attempt worked some-what, but mainly i made a mess. So i decided to try a scarfing tip, even worse results, purley do to my lack of experience. In the process of trying to figure-out what i was doing my instructor came over and decided to try. He, having read the post also, was just as skilled at this technique as i was. He put the #2 back in the torch and after about 1/4" he had the technique mastered. He removed about 1/3 of the backing bar. So using the same technique my teacher just used i removed the rest of the backing bar. worked good. Start at the top and make circles, don't try to burn out the full width of the backing bar. With little practice and a lot of patients, because this is comparatively a slow process, anyone can use this technique to remove welds or backing bars. I like the process because the flame will not accidentally dig into the base metal.

Here's another trick...if you don't have a bench grinder to sharpen tungsten with, use an oxidizing flame and sharpen the tungsten that way.  End result is that you don't have the fine metal particles on the tungsten resulting in longer tungsten life, and the point can be as long as you want.  Works great when you're in a boiler and don't want to crawl out of the hole to finish 1 weld!

Another trick when hand beveling plates or even ends of pipes on occasion is to cut from sharp edge of plate, kind of reverse of what one would do with a machine, you can maintain the straight edge and often get a good land.

Try a bulk head cutting tip. Flat on top and bottom bent like a scarfing tip three holes. The middle hole is the high pressure. 40 to 60 psi oxy. and 10 psi act. It preheats quick and washes down to about 1/16" with a little practice.

Dennis