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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Spectrum 2050
- - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-24-2010 23:58 Edited 12-25-2010 00:01
What size compressor do I need for my Spectrum 2050? I have the specs but I don't want to mount one on my truck because I didn't mount my cutter. Or should I use a tank since I don't cut very ofter?
Attachment: Truck003_001.jpg - My truck. I beefed up my suspension so I can handle the weight of the compressor and cutter. (0B)
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-27-2010 03:04
I have an 80 amp, 1" machine. It uses 7-8 CFM at 70 PSIG. That would need a 2-3 HP electric compressor or about 5 HP in a gas unit for long cuts.
- - By Sberry (***) Date 12-25-2010 17:31
You don't need a huge comp to run a cutter but since I didn't use it very often I would review my need realistically. I found I don't need every tool they invent, on my welding truck it is a welder and a torch, no feeder, no plasma, use battery sawzall, grinder. If I was a specialist and needed something then it wouldnt be an issue, some air is nice anyway on occasion but as you are finding it will come as a space expense. Could put that on and take plasma as needed.
Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-27-2010 03:29
Thanks guys, so a big compressed air tank wouldn't make sense? I picture keeping the plasma cutter and the air supply, wether it be a tank or compressor, in the shop. Would I get enough air from a compressor that is mobile? I mean will one of these 100 pound, $500 compressors I see do it? The last one I saw that put out the air the cutter calls for, it weighed 350 pounds, (truck mounted). I really try to keep the weight down on the truck. If I need something I just run to the shop. I keep my work close. I have a gas set up already on the truck.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Also, I've found myself doing many pipe railings all the sudden and it looks like I'll have a chance to bid on some fairly large jobs soon. I bought a manual pipe notcher and for various reasons I went through 3 $15 bits before ever cutting through a pipe. I know now what I have to do to do it right but am I doing it the most efficient way? I'm ordering another one from Baleigh for 1 1/2"and 2" pipe that I can mount on my truck, 35 pounds and about 8 inches high, big lever? Should I be using my plasma cutter to cut my pipe for the railings. Is that a good way to get my cut or am I going to waste my time practicing? It seems like if I could get a good accurate cut on pipe with my plasma cutter I could really make my life easier.
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-27-2010 03:51
The Baleigh manual unit looks pretty good for 90* copes.

The hole saw types require a really slow turning drill to get good hole saw life. I used a hole saw in a Bridgeport mill in the shop to cope pipe, and it worked well, but I was able to run it at the proper speed, and feed it smoothly.

You mentioned 1 1/2" & 2" pipe, that is pretty large for most railings. I  use 1 1/4" sch 40, the aprox. 1 5/8 OD fits right in the code reqirements I have worked to [ADA].
Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-27-2010 12:26
Thanks Dave, I didn't consider smaller. I was obviously turning my bit too fast also. Any info on a cnc for this cutter? Can I make one? Or would it be worth it just to buy one? If I bought one, from who? How big?
Parent - - By crahner (**) Date 12-27-2010 13:15
for cutting saddles in pipe i use archers e z pipe saddle

you can use it to cut saddles using your chop saw and is the only tool you need for pipe from half inch to three and a half inch.  I have used it for miles of pipe fence.
Parent - - By Northweldor (***) Date 12-27-2010 15:30
This seems like a handy and economical tool if it performs as you say. Could you tell us a little more about how it is used?
Parent - - By crahner (**) Date 12-28-2010 03:08
the jig sets the material at 30* to the wheel in your chop saw.  You make the first cut mark the front side with a gauge that comes with the jig (based on the diameter of pipe) and line the mark up to the right mark on the back side of jig (rotate the material 90*) and make the second cut.  Perfect saddles every time.  You can also slide your material in or out in order to have a "lopsided" saddle if the rail is on an incline.
I will take some pictures tomorrow when I cut posts for 300' of pipe fence I just started today. 
This is by far the fastest, cheapest and most accurate way to cut saddles i have found.  The only draw back is that all cutting must be done in the chop saw, cuts can not be made with material in place in other words.
Parent - By Northweldor (***) Date 12-28-2010 11:09
Thanks for the additional info. I'm going to get one!
Parent - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-27-2010 18:49
Very helpfull.  I also would like to know more about this.
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-28-2010 01:26 Edited 12-28-2010 01:30
CNC for which cutter? CNC sounds like overkill for this type of work.

Look into the Archer tool mentioned by another poster. My guess is that You cut (2) angled cuts on the end of the pipe, and altho it is not a perfect fit, it is close enough, and the weld fills in the rest.
Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-28-2010 01:30
For the 2050. I'm setting up a small shop in my garage with hopes of a bigger building very soon. I
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-28-2010 01:41
You would need a 3D and  4 or 5 axis CNC to cut pipe copes, that would be really expensive.

As far as CNC plate cutting, unless You do one hell of a lot of it, You are better to farm it out, same as laser, water jet & flame cutting. Each process, laser, water jet, plasma & flame cutting have aplications depending on material type & thickness & accuracy requirements. The equipment is expensive, and needs to run often to make You money.
Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-28-2010 01:52
That settles that, I'll forget about CNC for now. Thanks for saving me much time and money. Are you the Dave Boyer from Delaware?
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-28-2010 02:04
I am near Pottstown, Pa. Where does the one in Delaware live? Before they changed the road, 896 South just beyond the Rt. 95 exit there was a home belonging to a Boyer, acording to a sign on the mail box. I never stopped to see where they fit in the family tree. There are a whole lot of Boyers here in south eastern Pa.
Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-28-2010 12:39
The Dave Boyer I'm thinking of is either in prison or just out. I don't know him personally. His family owned a constuction outfit, R.A. Boyer I think. Something about the books. I don't even know what he did wrong but it was all over the news here a few years ago. Pottstown, my largest railing job was in Chester Springs. I think that's up your way. If you ever find yourself heading to Delaware beaches give me a ring, I'd love to have someone who new what they were doing straighten me out. I've had to teach myself everything since my welding class. I bought $60K worth of welding equipment and gave it a shot. It's working out as well as I hoped it would. I'm sure I gave this to you a year or two ago but here's my web site, .
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-29-2010 02:46
Chester Springs is not far away, I went to highschool with kids from that area.

There are other guys here who are much better & more experienced welders than Myself.

My background is tool & die making, but I have been doing repairs & small jobs of many types since I was a kid. My shop is a well equipped home shop, welding/fabricating, machining & woodworking. I tinker a little in blacksmithing.

Nice website. Do You have any interest in forging parts for Your work? There are some good blacksmith guilds within traveling distance, the next big event I can think of is the Gichner memorial hammer in in Cordova Md. . Unfortunatly, I cant make it, but it is a really good one.
Parent - By Smooth Operator (***) Date 12-27-2010 22:51
Dave, Use a manual unit simular to Baleigh's has 2"&1 1/2" on one block & 3/4" ,1" & 1 1/4" on another block have 2 different areas' set up to do rail had both sets about 5 yrs. no problems.  For my bevel notches (best tool I own) is a  LINDERS NOTCHER, runs on a 4" wide abrasive ceramic belt ,been runnin' this unit since "95" , wore out 2 motors and 1 feed head plus I see they've made "improvements" on newer models but the one I have is still going strong!!!!!!   Prices: notcher $3500.00 (in 95) belts $25.00 ea. ( get  about 50 -75 notches per belt) Pittsburgh Home of dem' STILERS'
Parent - - By rcwelding (***) Date 12-27-2010 16:28 Edited 12-27-2010 16:31
I have this compressor and it has kept up with my plasma and anything else I have tried to run off of it... I have not tried to gouge with it... I don't think it would keep up with a gouge....

Parent - - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-27-2010 18:50
Thanks RC. I read your post and bought one immediately.
Parent - - By rcwelding (***) Date 12-27-2010 23:33
When I first bought it I loved it... Then the darn thing would just stop working for no reason... I was cussing it and just plain mad..!!! Then I went and read up on the little Honda engine... It has a low oil sensor on it with a kill switch... I put just a touch more oil it it and it has started first or second pull every time since then... It will fire right up even if it has sat for a month or two... I love it Now..LOL!!!

Parent - By brian bachman (*) Date 12-28-2010 00:10
Low oil sensor--got it. Thanks.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Spectrum 2050

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