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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 7018 open root
- - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 01-22-2011 13:34
Just a quick question. I was thinking about 7018 open root either pipe or plate and wondered if when doing the root pass if you burried the rod in like you do a 6010? Thinking about it more not doing that and you'll likely blow the bevel out and open a hole like the Grand Canyon. Using a 1/8" rod what is the typical gap/land used?

Shawn
Parent - - By Cactusthewelder (*****) Date 01-22-2011 16:54 Edited 01-22-2011 17:54
Shawn, When we ran it in Houston We ran a 1/8 Gap with 1/8 Land and a 3/32 rod. You have to "Step" it in.
Parent - By Superflux (****) Date 01-22-2011 18:11 Edited 01-22-2011 18:17
Open root 7018 vs. 6010 is like Skis vs. Snowboard. Either one is probably just as easy or difficult to learn...had you not known how to do the other first! The old hands 7018 welders seem to do as Cactus said, use a larger (on 6" sch. 40 pipe and larger) used an 1/8" rod with 5/32"-3/16" gap and whipped/stepped it in with a slight "U" motion, carrying a small keyhole. Run cold so you don't let the key hole get away from you. This was on a nuke outage and some of those welders were amazing at this technique.
I only had to make one weld (The TEST) open 7018. The field welds were all TIG root. No real experience at it, just got lucky in the test booth, but this is the way the old hands did it and showed me that day.
You ever bust a test you KNOW you aced? Or pass one that was uglier than Rosie O'donnel in a thong?????
Parent - By cmays (***) Date 01-22-2011 17:46
When we hookup h2s wells we have to either tig our roots or run 7018 stringers depending on what the customer wants.We run heavier landings with a 1/8 gap usually and 3/32 rod around 75 to 90 amps depending on the wall thickness of the pipe. I'm not a fan of stepping it in because you invite slag inclusions when you step back down. With practice you should be able to let the rod burn itself in (running uphill ofcourse)keeping your puddle ahead of the slag. How well you fit you weld joint goes a long way when running 7018 stringers.
Parent - - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-22-2011 18:49
You do NOT want a keyhole for the bead. The land needs to be a wide as the rod you are using or a little larger. If you get the land too small, you will have to do a lot of rod manipulation to control the heat. Using a 1/8 rod the electrode should pass through the root opening. The land should be as wide as a nickle. Too wide of a land can be dealt with. Too narrow and you are screwed.
The next thing is root opening. The opening should be a little larger than the electrode.
Then it is heat. Most DH welders want to run too hot and too fast until they realize fast and hot no work on open root LH. You are not going to push the bead in with LH like you can do with 6010 rods.
And that comes to speed. Slow!
The best description I have ever heard id you run it like a caulking gun. You want the heat set when you lift the electrode the gap remains the same and there is no enlarged keyhole.
Another issue is electrode angle. You want the tip at 90 degrees to the bevel. If you drop your hand, the keyhole appears and you start the side to side to control the heat increase. If you lift your hand, the arc chokes out. If the rod is pointed toward either side of the bevel, you will get the keyhole toward the side of the bevel resulting in undercut toward that direction.
When the gap, land and heat are set right, it just flows in. It is just hard to describe, but once you do it you will know the feel and sound.

And if you are using a SA 200 somewhere on that machine is the sweet spot for open root LH. I had a welder I was working with that was trying everything. Rod angle, gap, using 7016. He was at 190 and 40 and would choke out. 190 and 45 and the heat would start getting away from him. Setting it halfway between 40 and 45, it ran perfect. This was on his remote. The heats did not work if he was using the control settings on the machine. I have seen some guys run in the 130 range and others in the 240. But most keep it in the 190 range.
Open root 7018 is the pinnacle of SMAW. Learning this skill puts you in the top of the trade.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 01-22-2011 22:33 Edited 01-22-2011 22:38
Thanks Kahunna, I was kinda thinking that the land would have to be heavier because of the characteristics of the LH rod. The 6010 is a fast fill fast freeze is it not? I know in my juvenile experience that the LH don't "freeze" as fast as the 6010, hence the manipulation I think.

I believe I'm following you though with your explanation. Tilting your hand side to side on the root would have the same result as tilting your hand left/right while doing a cap where you would get undercut on it. On the root if you were to look inside of the pipe, the electrode tip would be at the inside of the land? If you just put a rod in there without stinger and a finger on the inside of the pipe and put the rod in the root where it touched your finger keeping it flush with the land? That make sense? If that is so it makes sense, keeping it there would keep the arc lit but the short arc would decrease the amount of heat put on the land, correct?

Guess I'm gonna have to get down in the shop when I get a bit of spare time and plunk around with this, sounds interesting.

"Open root 7018 is the pinnacle of SMAW. Learning this skill puts you in the top of the trade."

Sounds like a challenge, going to get into shop and nail this one just so I can say, "yeah, no problem", hehehe.
Parent - - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-23-2011 18:31
You have the concept. As I replied to Pickupman, get some Kobe 7016 rod. Going from 7018 to 7016 makes a world of difference.
The land is important. Nice and thick. Give the weld metal something to lay on. Also the land will help keep the undercut down.
I cant think of anything else to add. If you get the gap concept and have decent welding skills, you should be able to get this in 2 coupons.
Most welders freak out on the gap size. Get this concept. You cannot "push" the bead into the root opening. Will no work.
You can deal with too large a gap by decreasing the heat and slowing the travel but you will never make up a too tight gap. If the thought goes through your head you will open up the gap with a grinder and push it through, you are screwed!
Think the rod is a caulking gun and you are just filling the gap with caulk.
Schools out.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 01-24-2011 00:38
Hey Kahunna what degree bevel is being used? 30 or 35'ish? ASME is 35 typically so that's what I was thinking but wanted to see what the norm was. Thanks again for the great info!

Shawn
Parent - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-24-2011 12:36
On smaller diameter (2-6) use as large a bevel as the procedure will allow. On 8 up tend toward the smaller. But this is a personal preference and will affect the width of the cap. On the smaller diameter pipe you will be using a 3/32 for the bead where on the larger a 1/8 will be used.
Again the land width is critical. Once you get past the bead, it is all gravy.
Parent - - By Rig Hand (***) Date 01-22-2011 20:01
You been thinking about Ronnie's test too? I been thinking about the wire side of the test. I haven't ran very much dual shield but, I would think that beading with it would be a real  b!tch.
Parent - - By Cactusthewelder (*****) Date 01-22-2011 22:01
The whole trick to it is, like Dbigk said, ANGLE, Once I got Ronnie to realize his angle, he put it right in.
Parent - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 01-22-2011 22:36
Thanks Cactus, I think I'm on board with what you guys are saying. Drop the hand and your essentially preheating your land, little bit longer arc on the leading edge and could open things up, raise your hand and your gonna be fighting a slag pool as your trying to go up. I'm guessing that raising your hand could lead to incomplete penetration on the root?
Parent - - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-22-2011 23:00
Most every person I have ever worked with on OR LH when they "get it" they all say "That's it?"
Standing back I can see the rod angle better and when I see the hand drop, the sound changes, you see the panic weave, then they pull out. All you have to do is lift your hand.
When that keyhole appears, you don't have long to close up the arc or the land starts melting ahead of the weld pool.
One thing I have seen is welders practicing who want to use sch 40 or standard wall for OR LH. Thin wall is just too hard with open root low hydrogen. Some guys when they go from the thinner wall to sch 80, one practice coupon and they have it.
Years ago I oversaw a OR LH qualification procedure using 3/8 plate. The bead was put in with 3/32 with 1/8 fill and cap. I saw a really good welder almost come to tears trying to figure the heat out. He was a crackerjack welder that before that week was a ceder post to crack of dawn welder. We went through over a dozen coupons trying to figure out how to make this work. Once he got the gap, land and heat right it was easy! The trick was a real wide land land, low and slow. If the land was 3/32 you had to be too cold. Could never seem to get the heat where it would deposit without blowing out the land and undercutting. When we put on a 1/8 land with the root opening where a 3/32 would rattle but a 1/8 would not fit the bead would go in without blowing out. The 3/32 stuck to the land, cut the shoulder of the face of the land and stacked. It was a beautiful thing. But you could not move the electrode in any direction but up. The welder had to concentrate on starting the arc and letting it go. We learned the sound it made when it was going in and like putting in a bead on pipe, if the sound was right the bead was right.
We tried a 1/8 electrode, but that was a wreck!
Testing welders was a rodeo. Trying to get through the little darlins mind to have the land that wide was difficult. But again, when they had the gap, land and heat right and they concentrated on keeping the rod parallel to the grove got the "That's it?"
Have never used OR LH on that thin of plate since.
I have only worked with two welders that could not get the OR. Some catch on in two coupons some take up to five.
Parent - - By Pickupman (***) Date 01-22-2011 23:23
I just want to say thanks to Shawn for starting this topic, and to the rest of you for your replies. I have to test this next week on a 4" on 12", 5G, 7018 open root and I've been sweating it. I've burned up a lot of pipe and rod and while it's starting to click I was still getting some undercut/underfill. I think this will help. I'll put a little more land on it, watch my rod angle closer and maybe I'll make it. Thanks!!
Parent - By up-ten (***) Date 01-23-2011 03:00
This is probably the best post of the year. And the most informative thanks to dbk.
Parent - - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-23-2011 18:06
If you are supplying the rod get some Kobe 7016 3/32 for the 4 inch and 1/8 for the 12 inch. IF you have been using 7018 when you change to the Kobe 7016 it will surprise you. Some guys changing from 7018 to 7016 is all it takes. The Kobe 7016 was engineered for open root.
5G is easier than 6G because you do not have to change your hand as you go up the pipe.
On the 4 inch you should be able to run from tack to tack. On the 12 inch you will have a rod change where a coupon will be cut if this is a Section IX. If it is a 1104 test it should be between the coupons. You may want to come off the 6 o'clock tack and run four inches, change rod then run to the fit tack. Again run 4 inches, change rod and run to the 12 o'clock tack.  Most have a easier time changing the rod with a lower hand position but you may find you can make the change at a higher position. Just not in the area where the coupons will be cut.
When you look at the gap and it scares you, you are about right!
Bout all I can think of, it is up to you. Good luck.
Parent - - By Pickupman (***) Date 01-23-2011 23:31
Thanks dbigk, it's a 4 on 12 saddle for our company 1104 test. I have a couple practice pieces all set up so I'll try these suggestions and see how it goes.
Parent - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-24-2011 00:49
I thought this was a really odd pipeline test. Does not change much. Still need a lot of gap but be sure you have lots of bevel up to the land.
Start off the throat and carry the bead to the middle of the saddle. Stop and change rods. Cary the remainder of the bead across the point. Feather the starts on the point and the throat. The coupons will be cut from the point and the throat. This is chingles easier than a open root butt weld.
Keep the rod angle 90 degrees to the bevel as you come up. Get the land and gap wide and the heat down. Just like on a butt weld if the keyhole starts opening, you have a real short time to point the rod back toward the puddle or the keyhole will open and you will get some undercut.
You will be just fine.
Parent - - By Iron Head 49 (***) Date 01-23-2011 00:35
I've never done it to a WPS, just playing around. It is a lot easier on DCEN.











Parent - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 01-23-2011 12:34
I like how the slag is peeling off the inside, that's pretty cool! Think I'll have to give that a try today or tomorrow. Thanks to all for the great posts, Kahunna, Cactus, Superflux and others!!!
Parent - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 01-23-2011 18:32
Watch them arc burns!
Good bead.
Cut the straps.
Parent - By cwf07 (***) Date 01-23-2011 01:24
We are welding some 72" bridge Girders and we are putting a 3/16 gap. No landing on the bevel. We are using 1/8 and 3/32.
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- By JLWelding (***) Date 01-23-2011 03:37
I got to try that, this is really a good post.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 7018 open root

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