Did you weld them non-stop from tack to cap? I think the pipe temp plays a big factor, especial on small bore.

I run 5/32 70+ at 135amps but, I haven't filled and caped with 6010 in a long time. Some of my caps look slick and some look like ass also. Just depends on the day & the amount of coffee :)

I have not run much 5/32 caps but on my ranger when I was toying around seems like I had it pretty low. Think they call out 100-165 amps on the 6P+ and seems like on my ranger I would set it around 120 ish' maybe a bit more or less, just depended on how it was flowing out, how hot the piece I was welding on was. I ran some on full lengths of 6" pipe though so heat was transferred better and could run it a bit hotter with the 5P+ which runs 90-175 amps I believe is what Lincoln calls out. The days I used it they looked good(for a 6010 rod) but have to agree some days you look at your 6010 cap and think, dang! Am I good or what, other days you look at it and start looking for the guys to start wrapping it quick!! Not that it's undercut or pinholed just don't have that nice gorgeous bead.

On my 250 I'm running 1/8" 5P+ in 2nd gear, around 70 and that is start to finish on full lengths of pipe. Did some 4" 90's, 4 to 3 reducer and 4 foot section of 3" pipe connected to the hot tap at home one night to get ready for the next day and after getting things heated up had machine cranked down to 2nd gear, 55 but back out on the job it had to go back up to 65-70. On my hot pass I'll have a longer arc to help burn out the funk and be moving along pretty quick but with the cap I end up shortening the arc a bit to cool her down give a bit more puddle control then throw in a bit of a swirl. When I get a chance to play around here at the house I try all kinds of crazy stuff, hotter, colder, shorter arc, longer arc, swirl left, swirl right, whip etc., etc. Then again I'm not one to keep swapping settings on the machine, I like to get it set and roll the whole way out. Might be different if I had a remote but I don't.

Sorry, not a "pipeliner" but have run over 2000 feet of the green pipe in the last 6 months and most of the caps looked excellent, something you'd write home about. There are some though where you'd stand back and look at the welder settings, check the temperature outside, think about how you felt, am I sick? Cold? No, feel good, check welder settings again, scratch head and say, why does this cap look like azz?? Don't know if any of this will help out or not, looks like mindless babble for the most part! LoL!

Shawn

Hey weaver I know our machines are totally different but my Vantage fill's and caps better with the arc force set at -4.. I don't know if your Pipe Pro has a arc force control or not.. I have never been around one..

   It beads better around +3 then fill and cap -4 

  Just a thought... Hope that helps..!!

   RC

Depends
On ur travel speed. I run 240 range and 40 on 532 rod. But turn up five on bottom. I think ur speed is just to slow. When u see ur puddle tie in to the edge of the bevel move to the next side while keeping a puddle the size of a nickel or so. And just zig zag it down just a tiny bit. Remember on downhill all ur cap needs to be is 1/16 high. Maybe trying to get ur cap more humped up like a 7018. Which dont me wrong u can with 532.. But i like to see how low I can get them before they make me fix them. If it's to hot try to bump it down a range. And don't let the puddle get underur rod. Before u cap get it flush with the pipe. That helps a lot also.

I've been running a lot of 8010 doing compressor tie-ins. Not sure how much the heat differs to that of the 6p. Recently had to do some piping modifications for some temporary skid units that had the wrong piping sent for two of the five units they set. I typically will run a 5 for my hot at 3rd and 50 and then switch to 3's for my fill and cap running in 3rd and about 80 to 85 for the fill moving along quite fast. (most recently 6 inch XH) ...then cool down a bit to around 70 for my cap and turn down as I come down the pipe. If I cap with a 5, I will start around 50 - 55 in 3rd gear which is definitely a lot easier to handle on the smaller pipe. Its all in what YOU get comfortable with and can produce the best results with your machine. Mine seems to run a bit colder than some of the others I have welded with in the past.

Lol I switch down to 5/32 on 2 inch all threes on everything up from that

Well, Everyone knows which machine I have. ( A really Good one that Rick and Stan slober on) I had a custom Stinger made. It will hold two 1/8's a 5/32 and a 3/16 all at the same time. So, I can run a Run a Root, Hot, Fill, and Cap Pass all at the same Time !!!!!!