Dodging your question a bit, the torch will be the most versitile even if some little joint prep (cleanup or grinding) is required. If you plan on working metal it's a no-brainer; get one- you'll eventually need it, and where you dont need it you'll be able to use it to an advantage.
It will cut thin # surprisingly clean if the nozzle is matched to the work and gasses properly adjusted. With the proper technique there should be no distortion.
It will also bend, shrink, preheat, thaw, color, clean, braze, and permit you to forge on a limited scale... you'll also cut thicker stuff than any shear you'll likely want to buy. I'm sure I left some stuff out. Basically, oxyacetylene is all there was during much of the heavy industrialization of the world, and in the right hands can be an impressively versitile tool. Oh yah, it even welds!
I have used power nibblers; they're easy enough but do leave some sharp burrs and minor bending around curves to deal with. Nothing major to complain about, but not perfect either.
Regards
d
dee, excellent answer. Sometimes I forget my humble beginning. A borrowed torch, an old gas drive, a hand me down 9" Milwaukee and an old Chevy pickup is all I started my business with. The first expensive (at the time) tool I bought to compliment my old Smith was a Victor Motorized hand torch for cutting circles and long straight cuts. Man that was a long time ago! I think dee is correct, buy the torch and learn how to use it. I get immense joy out of going out into my shop or onto the job site and showing my men how to cut properly with a torch. It can be considered an art form by some. I also would suggest if you go with the torch, try a Smith or a Victor.
Respectfully,
Mike Sherman
Shermans Welding
Ah, the ol' blue tipped wrench
What is a "Victor Motorized hand torch for cutting circles and long straight cuts." ? And what kinda money for something like that? Oh yeah, BTW, what is the difference between brazing and welding with a torch?
I haven't used the Victor model. We have the Bug-go brand in our shop. The magnetic track comes in sections like a model railroad. You can angle the torch head for beveling plates for full pen welds, make long continuous cuts straight. And I think they make the circle model as well, but we have a manual magnetic compass to mount the torch head in to do different radius circles and arcs (homemade). You can come up with something I'm sure with out spending a great deal of $$'s. We did, with some extra Bug-go parts we had in the maint. shop.
I'm sure others have some great ideas, keep on reading these boards.
John Wright
The way I understand it- In welding you melt ALL metals involved in the joint. Brazing does NOT melt the base metal , but bonds it with another metal (which IS completely melted during the process). Soldering is basically the same as brazing except much higher tempertures(and of course different alloys), are involved with brazing. When it's done correctly the joint can be incredibly strong with brazing or soldering. The joint construction needs the correct tolerances though. In brazing if strength is needed tolerance usually needs to be quite close. Once joint gaps get too large the alloy won't flow into the joint well. ( capillary action is hindered). Even if it does fill a wide gap your joint will only be as strong as the alloy material itself.( usually consideralby weaker than the original material.) Brazing also has the disadvantage of much less heat resistance than a weld. You also need to heat a larger area than in welding to make the molten braze alloy flow properly.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH THE TORCH SUGGESTION YOU MADE. THE ONLY PROBLEM I SEE IS LEARNING TO USE IT CORRECTLY ON LIGHT GUAGE METAL. THATS NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN LEARN OUT OF A MANUAL IF YOU ARENT ALREADY PRETTY HANDY WITH A TORCH.
I appreciate everyone's input -- Thanks.
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