Not logged inAmerican Welding Society Forum
Forum AWS Website Help Search Login
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Stainless
- - By weaver (***) Date 05-16-2011 03:56
I have a bunch of stainless jobs ahead of me, ( all railings on boats) looking for the best way to sand and polish stainless. I believe it's 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 od. Had enough of the oil field and moving on.  Regards , Shannon
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 05-16-2011 04:11 Edited 05-16-2011 04:16
Buy the polished tubing. If You plan to blend & polish out the welds use Scotch Bright or Beartex type abrasives followed by stainless compound on a cloth or felt buffing wheel.

Walter abrasives has a kit of pads & felt wheels that velcro onto a 4 1/2" pad for use on an angle grinder. This stuff works, but is expensive.

If You are good at TIG, You can make a nice TINY fillet weld and avoid grinding, just polish. KATO in Annapolis, Md. does it all the time.

Keep Your post to rail joints a small as possible with perfect fitup to minimumise distortion [little or no filler rod]. One shop I know of built a jig with a hydraulic jack to straighten the top rail after welding. It doesn;t take much distortion to make a job look like crap from 30' away.
Parent - - By yojimbo (***) Date 05-16-2011 15:09
Weaver-

I'd second what Dave Boyer said and add when I was doing a lot of stainless 316L sanitary dairy work the business I was working for used what we called either "grey" or "white" wheels with the white wheel having a finer finish.  They were 6" buffing wheel about a 1" thick a lot of their welder would use to polish out the weld completely altough I am of the opinion that in that weld- a single pass fusion tig fusion weld- done properly is perfectly flush to the tube surface and just scotch brighting or a stainless hand brush to wipe of any surface oxidation from the heat is sufficient and doesn't need polishing.  It was usually a fallback but-saver for less skilled welders on those jobs.  When you say boats, can we assume you are talking high end yachts and you are looking at safety railing on the sheer and bowsprits?  Maybe cabin railing? The higher the quality of the boats your doing the work for the higher the expectations on the finish.  There are tools available for putting the cope into the posts for top rail fitups you can locte online.  It's essentially a belt sander with a removable mandrel on the idler end of the belt that you replace with the correct diameter mandrel to match your pipe and vice for your post.  Clamp the post in the vice and a handle wth a cam allows you to push the post to the sanding belt and it copes out a machined fit for the top rail.  The weld for this fit can then be done with minimum heat input and resulting distortion.  If you google pipe notchers and hunt around you can find examples- Ercolina builds one I believe.  They are expensive but for that work, if you have a lot of it, might be worth looking at.  If you're as cheap as I am you'll probably figure out a way to build your own.  Also pre-coped "fishmouths" of different pipe sizes are available but I don't kow the source although you might get lucky looking through the Waner Co. catalouge, they do everything handrail related.  You use thes to save on having to produce a perfect coped fitting but it gives you an extra butt weld to do- gotta figure the savings to your costs welding vs fitting.  Handrail distortion has been known to make me throw tools across the shop and wake me in the middle of the night with hyperventilated anxiety, so if Dave could provide a better description of the jig to straighten top rail distortion he mentioned, I for one would be gratefull.
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 05-17-2011 07:16
I never got to see the jig, but Mr. Petrini from Petrini Boat Yard had mentioned to Me that His welder/fabricator had made the jig. I guess He used a similar setup as a piipe bender, applying pressure oposite [above] the post and supporting the rail on each side [below]

Another thing to be carefull of is carbon transfer from tooling, Wood or plastic contact surfaces can prevent it, polishing after can remove it.

One of My friends who fabricates stainless for yachts had a plastic or rubber "thingie" He used with the Hosfeld bender to keep the stainless from rubbing on the iron tooling.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 05-17-2011 12:26
I think somebody told me once that Wagner offered a tool to straighten the top rail. Have not looked but believe they have one.
Parent - - By Skaggydog (**) Date 05-17-2011 16:38
Strait-O-Flex, works by caming, about $1,000
Parent - - By Showdog75 (*) Date 05-18-2011 00:15 Edited 05-18-2011 01:54
I use a plumbers tubing cutter to make my cuts. Go easy and buy plenty of extra wheels as you will need then. I buy polished tubing from West Marine. I also use the next size down[3/4" will fit 1" tube] tube to make inserts for all my joints. It will make your joints perfectly matched. Use .045 mig wire for your filler and don't use much heat[50 amps or less usually]. Solarflux is your friend for this type of fabrication as well. I use a 1" wide Makita belt sander with to get my welds flush then polish out with my electric die grinder and cotton buffs. Very tidious work so be patient. Also I cope with hole saws in my vertical mill[cut fairly slow with good tool pressure]. Hope this helps.One more thing if your gonna do alot of this type of work and your doing high end stuff you should check out the Fein tubibg polishers. They run $1600+ but the are made for this stuff.
Parent - - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 05-18-2011 02:32
weaver you got great advice straight out of the gate...it takes lots of labor to polish out stainless.
Parent - By Showdog75 (*) Date 05-18-2011 19:44
Actually it doesn't take lots of labor just the right equipment some experience and patience.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Stainless

Powered by mwForum 2.29.2 © 1999-2013 Markus Wichitill