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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Magnetized Pipe
- - By jwa35 (*) Date 05-27-2011 22:23
I was wondering if anybody had any input on the best way to deal with magnetized pipe. I've been told to reverse my polarity if the root keeps pushing out. I was just curious if it works good, and if I will have any problems with x-ray. Where I'm running into it at is on some old lines that we are cutting sections out and replacing. Thanks
Parent - - By Tyler1970 (***) Date 05-28-2011 02:32
I know company's that have their equipment And can demagnatize pipe.
Parent - - By JMCInc (**) Date 05-28-2011 02:42
I've found a wire feeder with the ground lead wrapped around the pipe several times to work. You may be limited by a wps.
Parent - By cdd (**) Date 05-28-2011 03:23
going to straight polarity works but after you put the bead in i would hot pass that area to keep it from cracking. If the whole thing is mag try wrapping your leads around it and close to the weld
Parent - By Joseph P. Kane (****) Date 05-29-2011 00:29
AC heating with wire / ceramic blankets from a "Cooper-heat" type machine or even an AC welding machine of adequate capacity will disrupt the residual magnetism or even induced magnetism if the blanket is strong enough.
Parent - - By junkiron (**) Date 05-29-2011 02:44
use a yoke from one the nde guys, turn it on, on the base metal and pull it off while it still on. might have to do it several times
Parent - - By Johnny Walker (***) Date 05-29-2011 04:31
Wrap stinger lead around pipe on one joint and ground around the other bout 10 times each make sure insulation on lead is good so it don't arc out once gap is bridge it should weld fine at least it has b4 straight polarity will help on the bead pass
Parent - - By 803056 (*****) Date 05-29-2011 16:29 Edited 05-29-2011 16:38
You can demagnetize a piece by magnetizing it with AC.

The secret to demagnetizing a work piece is to remagnetize it with a field that is stronger than the residual magnetic field that is giving you problems. The residual magnetic field can be the result of machining the part secured with a magnetic chuck, from grinding or machining the beveled edge, welding with DC, or in some cases it can be the result of the magnetic field encircling the earth. Remember, the earth is a huge magnet which can magnetize long components transported in a northerly/southerly direction. This can be very troublesome with long members such as pipe, beams, and rods.

AC power supplies can be used very effectively to demagnetize various shapes using the "coil" or "cable wrap" technique. In the case of pipe, run several wraps of welding lead through the length of the pipe. This induces a circular field around the circumference of the pipe when it is energized with AC current. Start with high current and then reduce it. Remove a wrap of welding lead and energized the current again, starting with high current and reducing it to low current. Clearly, if your welder only has taps to reduce the current you will have to open the circuit each time you reduce the current. The easiest way to make a switch for the current is to short out the "stinger" on a piece of scrap and then break the arc before reducing the current by selecting a lower current setting.

Once you have reduced the number of cable wraps to 1, wrap the welding lead around the pipe several times. This will induce a longitudinal field so that one end of the pipe is the North Pole and the other the South Pole. Using AC current causes the polarity of the magnetic field to change many times per second (depending of the cycles used, i.e., 60 Hz or 50Hz). Once again, energize the circuit using high current and reduce the current. Repeat the steps after removing a wrap of welding lead until there are no more wraps to remove.

If performed properly, you should be able to hold a paper clip to the end of the pipe and it should fall to the ground if the magnetic field is reduced sufficiently.

This same procedure can be performed with DC, but it is more laborious because you have to switch the polarity of the welding machine at the end of each current cycle. Wrap the leads, energize with high current, reduce the current, remove a wrap, switch the welding leads to change polarity, start with high current moving to low current, remove a wrap and repeat. This should be performed using approximately 30 steps, each at a lower current, fewer wraps, and current reversals.

The sketch shows the general layout and the "make/break" switch. Remember to start with the welding leads passing through and around the pipe to create a circular field, followed by the welding leads wrapped around the pipe to create a longitudinal field.  The embedded sketch shows the latter.

Best regards - Al

Happy Memorial Day
Parent - - By Johnny Walker (***) Date 05-31-2011 05:56
Dang that got all scientific all of a sudden thanks al
Parent - By Cactusthewelder (*****) Date 07-02-2011 03:10
I think you should just go to the Welding Supply and buy a Pipe De-Magnetizer.
Parent - By spgtti (**) Date 07-02-2011 15:04
It does seem overly technical, but we did this on some 18" chrome that would hang a full stick of 1/8" TIG wire horizontally. It took all night wrapping different directions with different #'s of wraps and then flipping an electric, shorted 300A machine on @ full power and reducing the amperage to 0 before we finally got to where we could tack the new spool in. I've also wrapped leads on different joints different directions while varying the # of wraps while trying to tack to deal with lower levels of magnetism and that has worked.

It always seems that magnetism appears most when a clamshell cutter or a machinist is involved in pipe prep.
Parent - By Mikeqc1 (****) Date 05-31-2011 21:19
use the AC yoke must be ac . Place it on the pipe energise it and pull it off. Its not going to remove all the magnetic force but it may help.
Parent - By Mikeqc1 (****) Date 05-31-2011 21:23
Parent - By RonG (****) Date 06-02-2011 18:39
Julian, been there many times.

Belive it or not...Just wrap your ground lead around the pipe (I always used about 6 wraps) close to where you are welding, chances are it will be in the wrong direction. If so just reverse the the windings. Works every time.
Parent - - By 63 Max (***) Date 07-02-2011 01:56
I use horseshoe magnets they work great. Get 2 horseshoe magnets that are big enough to go across your bevels. When you go to tact it off place them about 6" apart on top across the bevel. Try and put your tact in, if it still wants to fly out turn the magnets around. After I tact top and bottom I put the bead in about 6" at a time. Just keep sliding the magnets down as you bead it. This has worked everytime for me. I've had pipe we have dug up that would hold a 10-lb maul and it worked great.
Parent - By spgtti (**) Date 07-02-2011 15:05
Sounds like a good idea:grin:
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Magnetized Pipe

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