Will pretty much any constant current power supply (like some of the inexpensive stick power supplies) work sufficiently well for DC scratch-start TIG? For instance, could one of the common Lincoln or Century DC stick power-supplies, add a TIG torch and regulator, and do touch-start TIG well enough to get by? (I realize that the unit doesn't have a gas solenoid, and that I'd have to turn the gas on and off manually.) Has anyone done this?
Thx,
Dave
To Tig weld with a stick arc welder or a "buzz box", here is what you need...
http://www.tigdepot.com/products/p35TD-BBTF.htm
Also, go to the main page.
http://www.tigdepot.com
Todd
Is the buzz box he mentions a Lincoln or Century?
Thx,
Dave
OK, question. The info on this site says that you can TIG weld aluminum with this AC/DC stick welder + TIG accessories setup. However, folks on this MB have stated that you must have a high-frequency arc stabilization to be able to AC-TIG weld alumuninum, and this setup obviously does not. What's the scoop?
Dave
Dave:
A HF circuit is not always required for AC w/GTAW. The HF is superimposed on the AC circuit to maintain the arc. Batteries, a superimposed high voltage circuit (out of phase with the welding current), capacitors, etc. were used in the past to stabilize the AC. Please note this was all before my time...
The new generation of welding equipment which utilize a modified sine wave (squarewave) can perform AC welding of aluminum for example without the use of a HF circuit. HF is not required, just one method of arc stabilization.
I saw the kits in the link posted, did not see much on the control unit itself and how it works. They still look kind of neat though. I did it the old fashioned way, on a budjet.
Your hitting us with a lot of questions Dave, what are you doing?
Nothing yet. I've been watching for a used Miller EconoTIG/Hobart Tigmate at a good price, but haven't stumbled across one just yet. In the meantime, there's plenty of time to think about whether there's a much less expensive alternative that would get me most of the way there. Thus, this particular question...
Thx,
Dave
Long ago, we put batteries in the weld circuit. It did not replace the the hi freq start, but it did allow a squarewave adjustment of sorts on AC.
Boy, am I glad those days are done!! Wrong batteries, wrong size could really ruin your day!!
Dave:
Most (SMAW) arc welders can be used for GTAW. There are previous posts on this subject. I used a Lincoln AC/DC welder for SMAW/GTAW. The TIG is limited to DC welding unless you want to spend $ for a HF unit for AC. Also limited to about 125 amps or so on DC. Good for thin gauge material though.
I rigged some truck parts and made a contactor and gas solenoid unit so the torch was not always hot (energized) and I did not have to turn the valve on the torch for gas. The contactor solenoid was from a truck starter and the gas solenoid was for a truck air system, all operating on 12 VDC. A good cheap way to TIG, very smooth arc. All for about $500.
Dave:
You will need the following: An air cooled/gas cooled TIG torch w/ slide handle gas valve or knob, an argon flowmeter/regulator and power cable lug. Attach the power cable lug to the end of the TIG torch and connect the electrode holder of your stick machine to this lug. The other end of the power cable lug is where your gas hose for your flowmeter connects. If you have a polarity switch, change to DCEN (straight polarity for carbon steel and stainless). Attach your ground clamp to the work,adjust your amps and scratch start.
That link that Goose provided is pretty cool. Anyone use this kit or see it in action?? Just wonder how well it works. Sure would be nice to get a 225 ac/dc for $300 an add a the $200 kit to have tig capabilities.
rider:
All these parts were purchased at an auto parts store, some parts (solenoids) came from cannibalized trucks in the back of the City yard were I used to work. Shhh!
Not sure what Lincoln wants for one of their buzz boxes now.
The big $$ was for the torches, bottle and flow meter all which I bought second hand, but were still new and in the factory boxes.
Modified a air actuator foot pedal with some microswitches to operate the control unit which, as I said, had a contactor and gas solenoid. You will be very surprised how smooth the arc is with these little dudes.
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