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Up Topic Chit-Chat & Non-Welding Discussion / Off-Topic Bar and Grill / Rear axle pics
- - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-15-2011 05:28
Was headed home Friday, trailer in tow with ranger on board and some steel and took off from a stop sign and truck did not want to take off. Pulled into 4wd and limped it to a parking lot. Ordered a new used differential from the yard. Had a great day today so got out and pulled out the diff, driver side hub came off without unbolting the axle flange. Chunk and pinion looked good though, spindle on the driver side is roached though. I just had the wheels off a few weeks ago to do parking brake shoes and new pads and no problems back there. New oil in the rear about 6 months ago. I think the likely culprit is one big, fat heavy arse truck! Got some pic's of the carnage!
Parent - By Dualie (***) Date 12-15-2011 09:18
That lube oil looks cooked to all hell.
Parent - - By J Hall (***) Date 12-15-2011 12:06
It looks like the bearings weren't adjusted correctly. The outer bearing failed and the truck rode on the axle until it failed.
Definitely not a fun way to spend the day.
Parent - By Pickupman (***) Date 12-15-2011 13:48
That sucks Shawn. That will put a hole in the bottom line for a while.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-15-2011 15:31
Oh, they were adjusted properly I assure you. After I broke the axle I put it in 4wd and drove a few more miles to "finish" her off, hence the cooked and destroyed spindle. Yep, like I said, I know exactly why it failed,100% my fault. It sucks to have to drop the money for a replacement but what I'm getting will solve this issue where it wont happen again. It don't hurt so bad when you have the money in the bank to buy the part.
Parent - - By JMCInc (**) Date 12-15-2011 18:10 Edited 12-15-2011 18:16
What are you replacing it with? Is your truck an auto or manual trans.? If it's a manual it came with the biggest diff. available, a Dana 80. Just curious as I often wonder what I could do to upgrade mine (Dana 80). The Cummins deisels are hard on running gear. Some recommend replacing all the bearings in the rear diff. every 100k if you're working it hard. I've eeked 190k out of mine but I sense a clutch in my future. I'm glad your dang wheel didn't fall off. Must've been hanging on by it's fingernails!
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-15-2011 19:33
Well, little secret. This truck started as a 2500 manual with a Dana 80 hybrid. Which is an abomination. It has a 80 center section, tubes, ring and pinion. On the outside however, they decided for whatever reason to put Dana 70 spindles and bearings, hence the "hybrid" or a more appropriate description, p.o.s. I found this out when I did wheel bearings a few years ago and orderd Dana 80 bearings and went to put them on and low and behold they were way to big. Some investigation at the parts house and we were both standing there scratching our heads saying, w.t.f?

So, as I said, I know why it broke, have been expecting it, wanting it to happen so I could upgrade to the true 80. I'm going to put this new/used one in and run it until I can locate a second truck then I'm going to have my buddy go thru this differential and replace everything except ring and pinion. I didn't get going very fast once it broke. When it started to squeal I pulled over and ordered the differential. Figured I had already driven the knife into it's heart so I might as well twist it a bit before pulling it out!

Wish I could get a diff out of an F450/550 in the right ratio!! Just need a bigger truck but thinking a second one to split the duties will be the best option....maybe
Parent - - By J Hall (***) Date 12-15-2011 22:10
That bites. At least you were able to find a 80 to put in. I thought you had a 3500.

I don't know about the F550 idea, mine is howling now.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-15-2011 23:13
Nope, I started out with a 2500 and when I got laid off among other things it ended up being converted(spacers and tires) into a dually with a 3/4 capacity, such is the reason I've been doing everything I can to keep the weight of the truck around the 3/4 rating.

I have a friend who has had 350's and such, finally got him a kodiak and eliminated his problem. I've actually been thinking about an international 4300 or 4500, you can pick a used one of those up for nearly the same price as an '01 F350 and the international will have half the mileage. Been checking the truckpaper.com and have seen 100k 4300's for $14k and thought, "why the heck am I thinking about 3500 or 350 Ford and Dodge?". Gonna beef up the dodge and run her then mid summer I'm going to evaluate my rig situation.
Parent - By J Hall (***) Date 12-16-2011 01:01
I had to do some work on my F550 and found the parts are out of this world. I could have had a real truck and saved a lot of money in parts. But the size is sure handy to get around in.
Parent - - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-16-2011 04:55
Now if Your truck had a 318 2V in it like My Dad's '67 Power Wagon, You wouldn't have enough power to break an axle in a Dana 60.
At least He never did in 210K miles including snow plowing.

He did break a driveshaft in one of the Power Wagons, pulled it out and came home in front wheel drive.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-16-2011 12:58
I used to have a '68 Ford F250 with a 390 2v and 4spd. It was not the fastest thing in the world but there weren't to many trees around that 4lo could not up root!!! Never had wheel bearing, differential troubles with that ol' truck. Front wheel bearings were the "greased by you" bearings and not these p.o.s greased for life b.s.
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 12-17-2011 00:36
In that '67 Powerwagon, the front end ran in gear oil all the way out to the wheel bearings. That was a MOPAR axle. It was always a gooey mess, and not easy to work on.

MOPAR = Many Odd Parts Aranged Rediculosly
- - By Dualie (***) Date 12-18-2011 01:04
those Dana 80's arnt all they are cracked up to be.   I have had two Ring and pinions in my truck and one set of spider gears.    

one R&P at 180K due to to much back lash in the gear set and slack from accel to decel.

Broke a spider into about 10 pieces driving around a parking lot one day with 350K on the clock.  That took out the ring and pinion and the spider gear.    Put a mag hytec cover on there and amsoil severe gear oil this time with a master rebuild kit from spicer with new bearings and everything.   Also had a hub bearing that was VERY close to craping the bed.
Parent - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-19-2011 13:31
That's what's gonna happen with this one Dualie. Going to use it tomorrow to pick up a handrail, Wednesday to install a handrail and deposit a check. Thursday buy a back up truck and Friday probably take the truck to were my tech buddy works and have Randy's ring and pinion send him what he needs to rebuild the chunk. Ring gear was rusted from sitting in a junk yard for who knows how long. Kinda ticked off about that. I was under the impression that if you buy something from a large country wide dealer like this it would actually be gaurenteed to work. Guess it will work but won't work long. Gonna call them today and complain about that see if I can't get a bit of money knocked off what they billed me.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-19-2011 20:46
I just dropped 14oo smackers at Randy's ring and pinion. Said lifetime warranty on the ring and pinion and bought a detroit truetrac limited slip to ditch the clutches and questionable innerd's of this differential. Place I bought the used diff from said they'd help me out on the cost of this stuff as their differential should have been an installable working unit for at least 30 days. Told them I'm worried about the 2 days I NEED to drive it. Ring and pinion rusted heavily, wire wheeled it to get by for the next two days then off to the shop to get all the guts replaced. All told this will have cost $4000. Yep, my back up truck I'm buying later this week will be a cheap gas engine and auto tranny. Could build the auto trans and buy a crate motor from Advance for the cost of this differential. The ol' red dodge will be getting limited use once I pick up the Chevy.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-28-2011 23:45
Got my truck back together, runs good. Rear diff is super quiet! Now I have a true 3500!! Which means I am now, not overloaded. GVWR is 10,500 and I weight nearly 10,500!!! Going to see the used parts folks tomorrow to discuss what a good rebuildable diff goe's for, cause I don't think it's the $1800 I paid for. Replaced everything but hubs, axles, main housing.
Parent - - By Rafter_G_Weldin (***) Date 12-29-2011 05:27
Shawn I have a used diff for a dodge for sale I believe the ratio is 373
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 12-29-2011 11:50
Got it all back together Shad, 3.54 is what's under my truck. Bought a good used one but ended up that it had been sitting or perhaps underwater as the ring gear was rusted heavily and teeth were pitted. Bearings and races also rusted and pitted. Called the scrap yard and told them there was no way this was going to run for 30 days without spitting out a tooth. Told them I thought they had some warranty. Going this morning to see what type of help they are going to offer. Think it was only worth the cost of the case since every bearing and wear item has been replaced.

My mechanic friend laughed and said, "Maybe it came out of Louisiana!" Told him he might be right!
Parent - By Rafter_G_Weldin (***) Date 12-29-2011 14:28
Im not sure of the ratio. Jus guessing by the way it pulled and having to use granny gear to get rolling around here they are goings for 1500 im asking 800.
Up Topic Chit-Chat & Non-Welding Discussion / Off-Topic Bar and Grill / Rear axle pics

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