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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Repair question
- - By P3T3R ST33L (*) Date 07-04-2012 02:49
I have been doing repair work for a while now. I have some doubts as to whether or not some of the work I have been instructed to do is being done correctly. I would appreciate  any input as how to potetially handle this in a better fashion.

Here is the scenario..
I am repairing a crack on an excavator boom. There is no wps that the company that employs me will provide. My instructions were simply to gouge out and weld it up. It is a single sided full pen joint without a backing. What is the best way to weld the root to ensure proper fussion?
Parent - - By Northweldor (***) Date 07-04-2012 12:34
Have you tried to contact the manufacturer?
Parent - By P3T3R ST33L (*) Date 07-04-2012 16:18
I have not been replied to as of yet. I have been reading stuff on line here and other places. From what I can gather if the weld to be made is full pen from one side with no backing AWS requires it to be back gouged, but this is not possible on a box shaped boom or stick. I was not sure that some form of pipe welding techniques should be employed?
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 07-04-2012 18:56
Peter,

WELCOME TO THE AWS WELDING FORUM!!

Now, Al and Nick made good points.  I would like to expand on both a little.

First, D1.1 is a good starting place for work on heavy equipment, but the code you really want to reference is D14.3.  It covers pretty much all applications for machinery such as trackhoes, earthmoving equipment, log stackers, etc.  I don't have one anymore, haven't worked for LeTourneau for many years, but I'm pretty sure it would have what you need for considering box tube booms and repairs that need to be made to a broken member.

Second, having worked on many such pieces of equipment, Nick made a good suggestion.  If you open up your root a bit, take a piece of flat bar and attach a small diameter (1/8" 7018 electrode or the like) rod to it at one edge you can slip it in the crack and line it up to give you a backing.  Tack it in place and then snap the rod off.  Now you can get your CJP with no questions asked and a minimum stress riser. 

My favorite method for accomplishing this is to set the bevel groove as I want it and then on the 90* surface from where I am working I make a slot that the backing will fit into.  Cut it to a proper length so it goes to the opposite corner but is short enough it lets me weld the slot back in.  Attach a rod to the center of the backing bar to hold it up tight against the root and work it into place.  Tack it and then snap it off.  Again, a CJP with backing. 

One of my customers called me a couple of years ago with a trackhoe boom that had snapped around 3 sides and part of the 4th and was at a rediculous angle from being straight.  It had a heavy duty chopper on it for clearing brush including small trees from under 1000's of miles of power transmission lines across AZ.  The operator had been using it with way to much side pressure applied and as a means of relocating the machine on very steep hillsides.  When it snapped it went almost all the way.  The manufacurer told them it could not be repaired successfully.  They and others had tried and they would be lucky if it lasted a couple of days.  So, they wanted to charge them a terrible price for a new boom member and total replacement.  I laughed so hard I started to feel sorry for the guy.  I hate incompetence and the excuses people use for lack of knowledge and proper training and experience.  But it does mainly come down to not wanting to risk their poorly trained people having to stand behind a product that they know is going to fail.  So, money and insurance are the bottom line with more profit coming from selling a new part and not having to worry about it's structural integrity.

So, I used the machines power to push it back around to close to straight.  Had to do some removing of material because of the way the box tube stretched around the edges of the tear.  Prepped it with my bevels, put backing in place, and used strongbacks and come along to pull it into position straight, both side to side and up and down.   Then, with plenty of root gap and backing in place I welded it out.  That was two to three years ago and last time I saw him it was still going strong. 

Repeat business!!  I prefer my repeat business to be from a reputation of success and repairs needed in a different location and even different machine.  Not that the same machine FINALLY broke again in the same place.  I have my own structural ideas on repairs on heavy equipment so they don't break again in the same place or even close to my repair.  Not because I relocated stress risers and it broke there.  Not because my HAZ caused it to break further away.  Etc.  New break with it's own problems. 

And BTW, I ALMOST NEVER use SCAB or, as you called them, phishplates.  In most cases they are an excuse for not doing the actual repair properly and very few people know how to design them to get the stresses properly distributed and you have a worse problem that takes even longer to repair because now you have both a scab plate and the original material to deal with. 

Another thing, gussets, edges of welds, corners of the box tube, etc need to be very smooth in their transition.  Stress risers created at these points are critical. 

Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - - By P3T3R ST33L (*) Date 07-04-2012 20:52
Thanks Brent. I know what you mean about the scab plates I have had to cut them off just to repair a repair. A pain in the butt. There are a few contractors who have been very cool with me and I would like to offer them the best repairs I can do since they are good sh!ts. These guys wouldn't mind a little extra time for something that would be garanteed not to break again. How much will it cost me to pick up a copy of the code you speak of?
Parent - By welderbrent (*****) Date 07-04-2012 23:31
$80 for non-members, a 25% discount for AWS members ($60). 

You can find it by going to the AWS Website.  Just look up at the top left of any page here on the forum and it says 'AWS Website'.  Then you will see a button for the 'Bookstore'.  You will need to register and use your member number and you can order and automatically get your member discount.

Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - By Rafter_G_Weldin (***) Date 07-05-2012 04:07
I've done so.e repairs like you are talking about. And the owner told me to just fix it and get it back to work. The boom got bent I had to cut out the bent section. Build and weld in place a new section about 8' long and then fish plated it too took me a weekend tl do it. Before I started I told him ill do it but I will not guarantee nothing. He said fix it as far as I know it is still in operation today. There was not a WPS or a inspector I welded it with 5/32 lohi and jet rod he was very impressed
Parent - By makeithot (***) Date 07-13-2012 02:44 Edited 07-13-2012 02:47
pre heat do a 6010 6011 root, fill with 7018 or equivelent wire install a reinforcing patch and your off to to the races. have posted lots of pics on the site but you will have to go back a way's to find them. all the machines I have used this method on are still in the field today some have been there for 14+ yrs.
- - By 803056 (*****) Date 07-04-2012 16:48 Edited 07-04-2012 16:53
Most fabrication standards are intended for new construction. Many do not address repairs of existing machines.

While some manufacturers have adopted D1.1 as their fabrication standard, it is not necessarily intended for machinery such as excavators, trucks, etc. As such, the limitations and restrictions of D1.1 may not be applicable or appropriate for machinery.

That being said, D1.1 is the best design, fabrication standard I have used. It is a general cook book of how to design and deposit a sound weld in structures that will be subjected to static, cyclic, fatigue, or low temperature applications. I see no reason that one would not consider its guidance when making a repair if it (D1.1) includes the base metal that is used to construct the piece of equipment. Note that I said "guidance", because it is not intended for the construction of machinery per se.

If you have no access to both sides, if you must weld the CJP from one side without backing, there will be root conditions that can lead to cracking at a future time assuming the member failed as a result of fatigue.

I once had a welder tell me that you wanted to make the repair good enough that the customer was happy with the result. The customer had to be satisfied that he got value for the money spent, i.e., the machine lasted a reasonable time before the next break down, but not so long that he lost a repeat customer.

There are measures you can take to improve the longevity of the repair, but at what cost? You could prepare the joint and weld the first two layers with GTAW to enhance the probability of getting complete joint penetration and a root surface that is free of sharp notches or changes in geometry. However, the cost of doing so may be prohibitive.

An alternative is to weld the CJP joint with low hydrogen electrode, grind the face flush and reinforce the welded joint with a cover (fish) plate. The cover plate must be large enough and thick enough to redistribute the stress and to reduce the stress to a level that any incomplete joint penetration, rough root conditions, etc. will not initiate a crack as a result of fatigue. The shape of the plate plays a part in ensuring there are no stress concentrations that can lead to fatigue cracks at the toes of the fillet welds. Look at the way the manufacturers reinforce their booms in regions of high stress. They do what they do for a reason. Consider tapering the cover plate near the edges to reduce the change in thickness so there is no abrupt change in geometry.

Best regards - Al
Parent - - By P3T3R ST33L (*) Date 07-04-2012 17:37
Thanks for they reply. I understand what you mean about D1.1 I have had many customers demand that the repair be sufficient enough to not need phishplating. I understand there is only so much I can do on my end while not making it a bigger project than it needs to be. I have developed a technique of my own, but I am no official source. I have done  quite a few without phishplates that are still holding to this day and they were welded many seasons ago. So I can assume I may have found a good way of doing it with careful prep when gouging and how I do weld it out. I can understand where the construction companies are coming from tho, most of the repairs, I have seen done by others look pretty atrocious and they don't want that on their machines after all, they did pay a lot of money for them. As my boss would put it, "no phishplate you get no guarantee on the work" I guess that's just how it is. I was just looking for something that would provide a little bit more of a middle ground with the customer. I understand what is being stated, and the reasons why here, the problem  comes trying to explain this to a customer who knows nothing about welding and fabrication.

Thank you for the reply.
Parent - By nevadanick (**) Date 07-04-2012 18:13
If you gouge the crack out to get about a 1/4" root opening you can sometimes slip a piece of thin flat bar with mig wire attched to it to pull it back and tack it
  Obviously this trick doesnt work in all scenarios
Parent - - By TimGary (****) Date 07-04-2012 18:31
Al's response is good as usual but leaves out the liability aspect.
If you repair that material without an approved WPS from the manufacturer you and your employer will accept all liability while eliminating the manufacturer's.
While this is often done, it's best to have a clause in the contract with the customer which tranfers liability to the customer through the review and acceptance of a specific repair WPS.
IMHO... this CYA procedure is a prerequisite, especially when booms are involved. Who knows what loads some operator will place on that repair?

Tim
Parent - - By P3T3R ST33L (*) Date 07-04-2012 20:21
That was my thought, but this place has been doing this type of work like this for 60+ years. All I have ever seen is a CWI who shows up every 4 years to qualify the welders. Never a mention or even a shred of WPS is ever involved. The standard reply is as stated before. You allow them to do it their way or you get the work with no garantee at all. There isn't even an engineer involved in any of it unless the company we do work for has 1. We get an occasional wps from customers who are particular but that is a rarity. After the research I've done. I have found out how, not according to the rules this place  operates, but everyone is fine with that and accept it. It's that or they just have no clue how this place should be operating and just don't know any better. Either way there is no shortage of work for these guys to do. With exception to the big name earth moving companies all the other contractors abuse their equipment horribly.
Parent - - By strother (***) Date 07-04-2012 22:28
I do a lot of equipment repairs and the biggest headache with working on heavy equipment is that most of the people who own and or operate this equipment have no idea what a good repair is. They just want it fixed fast and if it fails again it's the welders fault. Or sometimes they think they know how it should be repaired and want you to go way overboard with the weld size and reinforcement which can cause more problems than the original failure. There is no perfect way to do any repair, because the failure was caused by poor design, abuse or fatigue all of which are out of your control.
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 07-05-2012 18:19
Hahaha!! Sounds like 80-90% of the clients I run across Randy! They tell us just weld this here and it'll be alright! Sometimes I feel like handing them the stinger.
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 07-06-2012 19:47
Once fatigue sets up on a boom...well they will be chasing cracks until they replace it..usually the whole machine.  Good advice on how to repair a crack has already been given.   I am careful when removing paint so I do not blend away any signs of stress cracks...if there are spider webs your only choice is to fish plate or remove.  I have cut out fairly large sections because of this before.  If it looks like a tear from a big "Oh *&^%^&"  then often I won't fish plate it...I will just put the best weld possible in there.  If you can get a clean weld in often that reinforcement is unnecessary.   I will warm them up just a bit first and stress relieve the weld as I put in passes.  Most of the time a 7018 is all you need but I check the manufactures because sometimes they recommend a 12018.  All the manufactures have set repair procedures and it is best to go with their recommendations.  Liability waivers are standard with me on repairs like that, I have no problem getting them signed.

Just fix it ASAP is almost always what you hear...they do not care about tomorrow they only care about right now.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Repair question

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