Protecting machined pieces during staging

Date 07-24-2012 14:25

Is there a coating/oil/etc that is commonly used for this?

We're doing some work where we'll have to machine steel parts months ahead of when they'll be welded. These will be tight tolerance parts to be used for in a precision mechanized TIG application and are planned to be stored in typical shop conditions. From experience, we have some concerns about preserving the material surface condition during this time.

I'm looking for something that's going to come completely clean with Acetone or Alcohol and not dry out or run or otherwise degrade during staging. I know oil is typically used for steel from suppliers, however I don't have enough experience with it to know if it's some super special yankee doodle dandy metal coating oil, or if it would perform how I need to, or it would come clean enough for precision mechanized TIG, or... I'm not against just using 30 wt engine oil, but I don't want to gain "experience" on these parts :cool:

By aevald

Date 07-24-2012 15:25 Edited 07-24-2012 15:28

Hello Mike, a great number of years ago I worked for a fabrication/machine shop that did a lot of machined and welded parts/equipment and such. We used a spray can application of cosmolene. Worked really well for just such a scenario as you are speaking of. Once you had gotten your parts and went to assemble them or weld on them or whatever you needed to do, you would simply take acetone, mek, or whatever solvent that was available at the time and wipe the stuff off. Only real drawback to using this process was that you needed to be really careful when applying it. If you breathed it in and didn't take the proper precautions it would literally seal your lungs from being able to process oxygen and we all know what that leads to. Hope this might lead you to an answer to your question. Good luck and best regards, Allan

By qcrobert (***)

Date 07-24-2012 19:20

Same as we use on shafts and if needed, the cos is removed with MEK.

By rlitman (***)

Date 07-25-2012 13:49

Yep cosmolene is still around.
Another aerosol option is Fluid Film. Both are lanolin based, don't evaporate (like most oils), and stick around better than oil based options.

By welderbrent (*****)

Date 07-24-2012 19:35

I'll have to see if I can find a can to get the actual Manufacturer, but we have used LPS 3 with good success for medium time storage protection with relative easy clean up.

Have a Great Day, Brent

By 52757

Date 07-24-2012 19:57

Brent, it has been a while but if my memory is right is'nt there a LPS 2 and a LPS 3? One is a oil base and the other a wax base?

By welderbrent (*****)

Date 07-24-2012 22:34

Can says it is actually made by LPS Labs. Yes, there are several, I'm pretty sure anyway that I remember a '4' that is thicker than the '3' and much harder to get off but definitely protects better.

The '3' is the waxy one. 'LPS 3 Rust Inhibitor' is what the can reads, says it is good for about two years of protection. I got used to using it on the log stacker parts we re-manufactured (repaired) at LeTourneau in Portland/Troutdale, OR. Any machined or otherwise clean steel was coated in it before being stored for any time. You can get it in spray cans and I believe buckets for dipping or brushing on.

Have a Great Day, Brent

By MMyers

Date 07-25-2012 14:47

Thanks for the leads guys! I'll chase these down and throw them into the hat of stuff for us to look at.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 08-01-2012 22:09 Edited 08-05-2012 04:50

We used Cosmoline "Rust Veto" spray in a rattle can years ago. It is a hazy looking coating, so You can tell it is there, not the dark brown used by the military.

Friends of Mine liked the LPS-3.

Edit so it looks like I can spell...

By rlitman (***)

Date 08-02-2012 15:21

The spray cosmoline is a milky off-white. The tub of brush on stuff is more yellow.
They're the same base material, it's just that the thinner in the spray dilutes the color too.
The brown color comes with age, and they all darken over time.

By RonG

Date 08-02-2012 18:27

There also a Wrap that looks like Guaze soaked in Cosmoline and some in Parrafin. Both work well but Parrafin is easier to remove.

By qcrobert (***)

Date 08-03-2012 17:39

Don't use 30wt oil as it will just attract dust and dirt.

Try CRC SP-400 in a spray can, the MSDS sheet is located underneath each label after cutting off. It is semi to solid tacky and works well as a rust inhibitor that is easily removed with MEK or acetone or even turpintine.

Another solution is to use machinist's Blue-Chem.

Hope this helps,
QCRobert

By Metarinka (****)

Date 08-05-2012 05:39

do they have big dimensions? we used a lot of butcher paper or craft paper. They have the special craft paper that's lightly oiled and does a good job of driving away moisture. Obviously if they are parts that can't be easily stacked or have large dimensions paper probably isn't going to cut it.