another aluminum question

Date 08-04-2012 21:18

Well yea but holding up is another issue..

Chris I use a chart like this when I got to do combinations http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/support/Alloy-Selection-Chart.cfm
That should give you an idea.

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-05-2012 01:38

I hope it does i got the dam thing all cut bolted together just need to borrow a friends welder to weld it on. I could bolt it but rather weld it, in hopes to not worry about all those dam bolts leaking. When I come back from getting some dinner tonight I'll post a picture of what I got.

Do you know anyone who makes some kinda aluminum piano hinge out of 5052 aluminum then ?? LOL ahhh screw it, lol I'll live and learn if it works it works if not then I'll put my thinking cap on and try something different.

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 08-05-2012 03:19

Chris

For a little boat your choices will work just fine.

If the joints were critical than the fact that they will subject to cyclic stress would be worth putting in front of an engineer..

For clips on a boat? You are just fine.

All non heat treatable

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-05-2012 05:47 Edited 08-05-2012 05:52

Thanks Lawrence after drinking a little sake I realize I could bolt this some how to a 5052 plate which I could weld to the boat which not sure if that would even work.

Here are some pictures of what I have so far, I still gotta do some trimming on them and buy some turn buckles

can't make the pictures smaller

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 08-06-2012 16:24

There really won't be too much trouble matching the 3000 series to the 5000 series with the 4043 filler... Not for an aluminum family boat.

Although rivets (as just mentioned by a bright guy) is also a reasonable option.... Though I would recommend solid rivets for a boat... Amature blind rivets are a leak waiting to occur.

By F-17

Date 08-06-2012 20:54

Solid rivets is what I was referring too lawrence,and not the soft ones,a good quality sealant such as sikaflex between the plate and the boat and the buck rivets installed with the air hammer and steel bucking bar will hold up better than welding IMO.

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-06-2012 22:05

not really a family boat LOL trying to make a real haul a** kinda boat. Building a 70hp outboard when finish hopefully will be pushing around 130hp on race gas to go on a 15x52 aluminum V hull should be interesting

By F-17

Date 08-06-2012 15:34

Hard buck rivets................ just like the one's used by rosie the riveter.

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 08-08-2012 01:58

Just so you guys get a good picture of the "little boat" He is building aluminum trim tabs for this rig....that are adjustable. Those trim tabs lift the boat up out of the water at speed at bottom of the transom....basically they are there to help him adjust trim at full go fast and make the boat plane out properly. The load on these pieces can be considerable dependant on the hull type.

Chris if it gets frustrating ....it is not hard to weld your tabs on direct with an angle finder, try it out and then adjust as necessary. Take your original set and gently bend them till it is running right or you are very close.....then if you have tweaked them too much weld some new ones on at the correct angle. Most of the semi V bass rigs I have built were running around -4 degrees from where the hull flattened out.

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-08-2012 02:50

People have told me this Tommy to just weld them on but think it will be better if I make them adjustable, there's just way more room for adjustment, the bend it down method well I bend usually to much. When I build this 70/130hp motor i probably won't need the trim tabs.... really been thinking of building a boat with a pad rather then add a pad to this one which I think is to long anyways. A boat maybe 13'7 or 14'7 something like that would be good for this motor and want it skinnier. I need to try and find a program i can buy and take my ideas and put them into a program and see if they will work or just go for it.

By the way Tommy the original set is to dam short they measure like 8"Lx2"W while these adjustable ones will be the entire length of the back of the transom. In theory I'm hoping more surface area the water is running over the tabs and i don't need to bend them down so much and get the same affect and gain more speed. This is what a lot of drag boat racers have I have seen. If it don't work cutting them off and back to drinking some Sake and putting my thinking cap back on LOL

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 08-08-2012 03:15

I hear ya.....just do me a favor and wear a helmet and life jacket when you are pushing it to see what it will do....I have hit the water at 85mph and it was for the most part an unpleasant experience.

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-09-2012 11:58

Will do, this club says you want to race with them you gotta wear a helmet and a good life jacket, long sleeve shirt and pants.

By Chris2626 (***)

Date 08-19-2012 02:04

I got these trim tabs welded on the boat but how the heck do I post a picture on here or resize it?

By makeithot (***)

Date 08-09-2012 21:58

If I was you I would make my trim tabs out of stainless they will be there long after the the boat has gone to scrap alu will oxidize and there will be nothing left of them in a very short time