7016 uphill bead

Date 03-20-2013 03:54

It has been some time since I've used it. From what I can remember it had more penetration than 7018 but nothing like 6010. A good comparison may be middle of the road between those two rods. Fills like 7018 with a really fluid slag that peels off easily. Kind of reminded me of 7024, but going vertical up. Had to watch the toes very close as it would trap slag easily.

By hillbilly delux (***)

Date 03-21-2013 02:33

Tyler

I bet its for CC? One of the only ones that I know that gives that test. So if its a two inch cupon DO Not space it accordingly to your normal 6010 test. 3/32 to just slightly above is my preference. If not by the time you get to the top it will be sucked up tight and you will never get the bead in. 7016 Kobe rod is the best at getting that bead in. I dont push it in but actually float it in meaning my rod is not touching the pipe and I am whatching the key hole fill up behind me. Some wps's allow for you to run DCEN. If not and you have a googley eyed inspector run your bead set up like your were gonna tig. It will help with getting that bead in. In most cases that cupon will be shot and if you have an inspector that is not familiar with that prossess there will be alot of slag in there and leave it in there. It will cover any IP and other imperfections and let X ray sort it out. If you have a well educated inspector still try to run tig style on the bead but knock the slag off and have a good look for your self before he knocks it off and looks at all of it anyway. I have taken the test personally and also give that test as an inspector. Go get a 5# can of kobe 7016 at your LWS and run at least one or two beads with it. So you have a feel with what your working with. Its not a hard test but if you have never done it. It is alittle different.

Hope that helps from a guy that busted my first one the first time I took it. Then passed two days latter under the same conditions.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 03-21-2013 22:13 Edited 03-21-2013 22:20

Pretty much what he said. Be sure you have a good fat land on the pipe. Big land, big gap. The land holds the weld and the gap lets it get get in. If you do not have enough gap, you cannot push it in. If the land looks too big and the gap scares you, then you are pretty close. Find where you machine runs and leave the dad blamed thing alone. If you are doing the up 5 down 5 dance, you aint gonna make it. You should be able to run top to bottom. On 2 inch set your tacks at 12, 3, 6, and 9. Run from bottom to the side, break, feather the weld and run from side to top.
If you have too much gap you can always slow and turn down. But if it is too tight, you may as well spool up. I have tested a lot of welders on this test. Most will bust because of IP. And that is caused by too tight of a gap. You may blow a tack if you get it too thin, but if all you do is feather the start of the tack and leave the keyhole side alone.
Another thing is rod angle. The rod needs to be fairly square to the root opening. As you come up the side if you start tilting toward the low side you are going to undercut the bead. And they you are really screwed. You will never get it out and may never see it until you cut your coupon. And it can break on the 2 inch coupons as there is not much to polish off. And you will probably get a visual bust with the UC anyway.
When the coupons are set up properly and the welder does his part, you cannot tell where the tacks are and the only thing on the inside will be a little spot where the bead ties into the top tack. If you have to run this on 8 inch sch 80 with a 1/8 rod use more heat. And THAT gap will scare the bejebbers out of you.
Don't let it intimidate you. Just keep the gap and land wide and the heat low and slow. And if you bust it, you are in a long line of very good welders who have done the same.