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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 11018 stick rod
- - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 01:08
Can anyone give e some tips on running a 11018 stick rod 1/8th rod. i took a test today on some 4 inch pipe I had to fig the root but run 11018 rod on the hot/fill/cap. i wanted to turn the rod up more but it's lie it make it worse it was very watery. What tips can y'all give to run it??

Chris
Parent - - By lo-hi (**) Date 06-24-2014 01:29
1/8 is a lot to run on 4 ". Try to anticipate  how  much of the rod you can run with control, and shorten it. A 1/8 will cover a lot of ground on 4". Rods run hotter towards the end and  shorter rod might give better heat control. Its still a lot of heat.
Parent - - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 01:42
Sorry I should have said I did that I took my Klein plyers and I did cut them dam near in half so i could control the rod better and that isn't so much the problem it's the way this metal flows but maybe I'm not gonna have a pretty weld like the guy told me. It almost ran kinda like a stainless stick rod but I'm not a ss stick welder either. These guys test you on 11018 but once you pass the test you weld with 7018 from what i hear, i guess this is there way of weening guys out.
Parent - - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 06-24-2014 04:12 Edited 06-24-2014 04:15
4" unless very heavy wall is thin to test 1/8 anything.   Your higher tensile low high rods tend to be a little more sluggish with the puddle...dont stick in place or follow..I.E. they dig more but you must be more deliberate with your fill.   Amperage will be slightly diff but not much from what your use to with 7018...start colder and work up to it.  The pace and heat is not much diff depending on preheat and material.  Most specialty rods come with procedure suggestions like material preheat and amperage....I have used 110/18 without preheat but rarely.   I do not know why the higher tensile rods are a little more diffucult to carry but I highly disagree with the watery aspect of some SS rods....SS rods just require a faster and more watchfull pace......the high tensil lo-hy require a more force it to stick attitude if that makes any sense.  The material and its age will have a big impact on how it welds.  Sorry if that is confusing.....if you have arc force avaliable ...TURN IT DOWN.
Parent - - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 05:02
more force it to stick attitude............. Yep thats about right, I asked if i could use 3/32 the guy said no it is a 1/8 size rod that has to be used. The machine i was on today was a miller inverter multi process welding machine it did have a arc balance knob makes me wonder if i should have turned that up more then 50. Well I'll practice here at home and go back over there next week and see if I can make it if not off to the next one.

Tommy tried calling you but not sure if you have a new number. Can you pm me your number?

Chris
Parent - - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-24-2014 09:35
Hello Chris. Miller inverter eh? Well...That's an important clue to your welding issue.

This is because an Inverter power source has what is described as a steep volt amp curve, with as you mentioned a "happy dial" called arc force or arc control. The transformer rectifer has a drooping volt amp curve, and while it doesn't have a happy dial, it offer up a much more variable amp/volt combination in arc length. Remembering the volt amp curve of that inverter power source isn't like a transformer rectifier, so when that bit of education and understanding of it gets over looked,welding 1/8" or 3mm electrodes or larger out of position gets a bit tricky.

Forgive me for saying so before I go further, who ever suggested you to cut a SMAW electrode told you a great mistake. Not that you can't. Time and place for everything. But friend, not a good practice. I think your welding with a bit to high of current.

So...Lets clear up a few things that may better able you to apply what I have to share.

When you turn the dial of your power source your adjusting amperage up or down. Amperage controls burn off rate and depth of penetration. Turn the dial up, the rod melts faster. Turn the dial down and the rod melts slower.

A pot of water can be steeped, boiled, light boiled or rapidly boiled. Electrodes can be melted in much the same way.

Remember that with an inverter power source arc length extension offers little control to voltage. Voltage typically controls/effects puddle fludity. That would suggest then that Amperage is being used indirectly to indicate a relationship with puddle fludity? Problem then becomes one of controlling the amperage?

Mash potatoes. Potatoes are amps, milk is the voltage. Thick and chunky or wet and soupy. Me...I like mine creamy and with dill.

That happy button. Arc control or arc force. 15 extra amps in the curcuit. However! Only when the voltage drops to below 19 arc volts. So when does that happen? Well, when you tighten the arc and the droplet starts to short out voltage changes, the machine senses it and Bam!
All of a sudden the rod is melting hotter, faster,more fluid and you wonder what the hell just happened?
If you look closely the effect is noticeable. Droplets are smaller, melting faster and wetter then ever. How did you loose control?

That dial reads 0-100% of 15 amps.
The tighter the arc you "push",  the greater the increase as the dial is set. That means the larger globular melting droplets of the depositing metal and low hydrogen coating become smaller, more liquid and take longer to freeze resulting in undercutting and excessively crowned weld faces if a faster movement and electrode manipulation cannot be used to control the heat build up and puddle fludity...

Lets say your welding a bit hot to begin with for the position. That means in my terms how much rod is depositing before you loose control or the metal no longer fills but fails to freeze to support it's self? Rods 14" long? If your only burning a couple or 4 inches maybe your a bit hot do you think? That's not to say you can't do it, but it's alot of tie ins and rod stubs later. Patience my son.

The faster burn off rate associated with an increased arc control or arc force effect in your application could actually work in your favor. While a 10-15%  Arc force/ arc control acts as a current shock absorber and prevents stubbing out, your troubles may be more of experience in controlling arc length, electrode manipulation and welding with a "higher amperage" to over come those issue? In such an instance, a lower heat and higher arc force/arc control can thicken the puddle.  Out of position work requires a more sluggish than fluid puddle and the inverter power source can be used to that advantage. You will notice the puddle thickens like adding more potatoes to the soup.

After all that, remember a few more tricks.
Plan your movement around the pipe and stop before you get uncomfortable.
Take a flash light and shine it against the pipe face to see how your inclination in or against the direction of travel effects arc length and puddle shape, 90 degrees is best.
Avoid excessive amperage and arc length.
Happy face ) sad face(  blank stare _ or a confused look 0 motion when welding will change the shape of your bead depending on puddle fluidity, how fast you move side to side and forward.
Speed of travel is both side to side and forward.
Don't pinch the rod between your fingers rest on a finger.
Loose weight and stay limber.

Oh yea...check your cables for knotted freyed terminal ends, these are real issues effecting arc voltage. Take a look where the cable attaches to the electrode holder.  When voltage drops due to resistance welders typically turn up the amps to overcome hard starts and snuffing rods.

But what do I know?
Just enough to be danger to others. Good luck with that.
Parent - By electrode (***) Date 06-24-2014 09:57
Marvellous.
Parent - By Tyrone (***) Date 06-24-2014 10:49
Very good explanation Plasma.
-Like
Parent - By Lawrence (*****) Date 06-24-2014 11:37
Very good explanation !

Now an operator can take your words and see it happening on the machine and the steel...

Perfect.
Parent - - By lo-hi (**) Date 06-24-2014 13:14
I to have a miller xmt and have learned a little more on how it functions. Wondering why cutting a rod is a great mistake? Have bent and cut rods for access  and comfort but as with many things of habit, it could be a mistake.
Parent - - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-24-2014 18:50
Low hydrogen electrode coatings are typically brittle. I threw in the comment about trimming a rod being a bad practice due simply to the risk of coating fracture.

Even a zip disc trim job leaves micro cracks in the coating which when the electrode is struck can break off causing arc wonder, gas shielding instability, and a greater risk of porosity on arc starts.
Ok...that and because from a control aspect,the arc doesn't stabilize as quickly. And a shorter electrode length also reduces a natural heat sink effect in the electrode core wire and coating so from a practical reasoning, the weld pool heats quicker faster...

Manufactures go to great length to ensure quick reliable arc starts. Some even tip coating the electrode with metalic powders to improve this effect. While trimming a rod to a shorter length can be acomplished, as can tacking three together to get length, it's just not a "good" practice.

"Good" welding practice suggests you strike your arc ahead slightly of the start point. Lifting the electrode or elevating the rod slightly after striking to stabilize the arc is high voltage low amps.This flaring is not as noticeable on the inverter power sources as compared to a transformer rectifier power source, thats the volt amp curve thing again.

Welding is like sex, get it hot before you proceed.

Flaring the arc after striking is much like foreplay, not much is happening but it heats things up.
As voltage flares in this few fractional seconds in time the material and the rod heat up, causing the coating to melt, releasing it's gas formers, improving electricial conductivity and the path for electron flow.  Tightening the arc to reduce voltage /gaining the amperage to get the electrode to start melting and before depositing much metal the operator then falls back down into the start point all within a fraction of a second or two to start the weld.
Welding over the arc strike start point remelts the area, cleaning any deposit while annealing the arc strike into nothingness if done right.
Not done right or fumbling of the arc due to broken or cracked coating leads to splatter lumps, porosity, slag inclusions. Sure, higher currents burn that out but around the post of welding a 4" pipe with 1/8" 11018 or similar it may not be the best approach.
In another world, it's a leaky pipe. Todays world it's a law suit and litigation.
Any stumbling of the arc in doing critical welds is a risk not worth taking.

If you have to do it, your going to do it because your a do-er, the job needs to get done, then do it.
But do it with knowledge of the risks, and do your best to minimize them.
Thats a mistake in practice if you don't.
Do it with the knowledge of the process, and use them to your advantage.
Thats a mistake in education and understanding if you don't.

Now having said that, I was taught to weld before I was taught to think why?  Thinking wasn't a job, doing was a job. I'm a do-er. Don't think about it, just do it.
Never gave much thought to why?
A big concern for my generation is we were taught to just do it. No fear. My generation teaches your generation.
Do this, do that.
Scary when you think about it. Not thinking...or of the consequences. And of not actually doing.

So like ugly not being a weld fault other than inexperience and opinion, the mistake is not in the do, it's a mistake in the why do it.
I hope this answers a bit of the why I thought trimming a rod a mistake.

On that fast finish, with an inverter, the Happy button aids in preventing the stubbing action of a trimmed rod, or a used rod stub, thats a bonus.

But if one is welding too high in amperage due to a difficultly in controlling arc length, well... then stuffing the short rod in the puddle things will cause things to get hot quite quickly and control is soon lost as the rod heat up, the weld pool grows hot and liquid, your brain is processing side to side paint the fence up and down and remembering to breath as you think your loosing control, deep in trouble  and questioning do I pull out or keep going...
And that how babies are made.
Does that make any sense?
Parent - - By JTMcC (***) Date 06-24-2014 19:35 Edited 06-24-2014 20:51
Uhhhhhhh, nobody shortens a rod on the front end.
They clip the electrode holder end.

The factory formed working end remains unchanged. Only the overall length is modified.

And, uuuuugh, trying to give lessons on human reproduction via the interwebs, as if only you understand that process, is ....just....plain....silly.

Look at all the rugrats running around over the last few thousand years : )

J

on edit: did you really think that welders were cutting off the factory end to shorten the rod?????? Really??????
Have you "ever been" a welder under harsh specs? Good grief man, that post just drips with "I've never welded anything but I'm a INSPECTOR condensation" as I like to call it. Drip, drip, drip.
Condensation, arrogance, primidonna inspector,  who doesn't understand the trade they are inspecting, call it what you want. This superiority attitude hurts the trade and cost's magnum $$$$ to owners (and end users, needlessly).
If you work with idiot welders, then it is what it is, you picked your workplace.
Go on now, tell us how you're a nuke primadonna done it all hand.
My goodness. lack of understanding runnin' amuck here.

No offense to the real inspectors that I respect who inspect to the standards in effect per the job, right or wrong. Lot's and lot's  of offense to the ill informed "power drunk" many (MANY) idiots running around trying to impose their stupid little opinions and trying to tell a welder how to shorten a rod : ).

The inspection world is in pretty poor shape right now in my experience, and really needs to clean up their house.

We'll see a lot of replies noting junk welders, so be it, run them off (withing the confines of the standards in effect), that helps me quite a bit and means work for me. But the stupid inspectors really need to be weeded out. Samo samo with the stupid welders, in my opinion only.
Parent - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 19:50
I never cut them on the front end I cut them more on the back end to shorten it. I don't want to screw up the factory end.
Parent - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-25-2014 02:53
LMAO! There we go, clarity.
Now I understand that. You understand that... And if everyone does it we can start a trend to getting manufactures to make rods shorter :)
Human nature being what it is, someone somewhere will not get that and I sure didn't do anything to explain it better than you have and I thank you for the clarity in correction.

" on edit: did you really think that welders were cutting off the factory end to shorten the rod?????? Really??????
Have you "ever been" a welder under harsh specs? Good grief man, that post just drips with "I've never welded anything but I'm a INSPECTOR condensation" as I like to call it. Drip, drip, drip.
Condensation, arrogance, primidonna inspector,  who doesn't understand the trade they are inspecting, call it what you want. This superiority attitude hurts the trade and cost's magnum $$$$ to owners (and end users, needlessly).
If you work with idiot welders, then it is what it is, you picked your workplace.
Go on now, tell us how you're a nuke primadonna done it all hand.
My goodness. lack of understanding runnin' amuck here."

This reaks of internet bully behaviour. Well, good luck with that.

"No offense to the real inspectors that I respect who inspect to the standards in effect per the job, right or wrong. Lot's and lot's  of offense to the ill informed "power drunk" many (MANY) idiots running around trying to impose their stupid little opinions and trying to tell a welder how to shorten a rod : )."

The offense is welders who fail to share what they have learned in a mannor thats of benefit to others learning the trade. The offense is failing to improve ones hand skills, understanding of process and application knowledge. The offense is your tone and quite frankly your rudeness.

"The inspection world is in pretty poor shape right now in my experience, and really needs to clean up their house."

I'm not an inspector. I'm a welder, retired an educator.  Some pass with high marks, some pass with low marks. Doctors call it practicing.

"We'll see a lot of replies noting junk welders, so be it, run them off (withing the confines of the standards in effect), that helps me quite a bit and means work for me. But the stupid inspectors really need to be weeded out. Samo samo with the stupid welders, in my opinion only."

Well, I'm aware of where you stand with your opinion. I don't think I'm a junk welder but if thats your opinion so be it. I think however if you had a pointer past the trimming of the rod to assist with the problem we would all endure reading it, in my opinion only.
Parent - - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-29-2014 16:19
Ok figure out how to run these rods, now spent sometime yesterday and have learned i had to change my technique up a little and as i run this rod i do like counter clock wise little circles and it helps to really spread the metal. i've had to move quite a bit faster to lay down a more narrower bead but it seems to really work for me and i've gotten it to look pretty good while i have heard that it won't look that good, few times i had to stop and make sure i was welding with a 11018 and not a 7018 rod. Thanks for the tips.

Chris
Parent - - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 07-02-2014 06:43
GOOD....
Chris it matters not what you hear, what matters is what you apply and it WORKS for you.   A good welder can tell when the metal being applied is working good.  So if it you got it going on and it is visually defect free....by all means continue and go test.   Do it!
Parent - By Chris2626 (***) Date 07-02-2014 10:03
Thanks tommy as i told you yesterday no need to test for that place now since i landed the refinery job, Just gonna have to see what happens and all about the per diem. Never worked refinery before so gonna give it at try per diem or no per diem it's another stepping stone.
Parent - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 19:47 Edited 06-24-2014 19:50
You're a freaking trip :lol: No I agree with ya cutting the rod does crack the flux and yes I have had issues when i light up it all wanted to break off. I thought this test was a 4 inch piece of pipe on a 6G and that was it and i can do that but it turned out this test was a 6GR and this company just had a booth to kinda ween out the guys who couldn't make it they said when they would send me to the company that did the real test it was a box they basically put over the pipe so it is very restricted. So I said to the guy let me go buy some of these 11018 rods practice a week and i'll be back and go take the real deal. He said to me if you practice a week you could probably make the test, the guy was gonna send me over to take the test but I knew i wasn't gonna make it so if I could practice a week Id rather do that because if I blew the test I'd have to wait 30 days, it's at a shipyard which I'm not to fond of the shipyard but it was a good stepping stone to learn to weld some exotic metals and thats what I wanted to try for. If it doesn't happen well off to the next one it's as simple as that.
Funny thing is I hate to even say this i have three certs on pipe, all x-ray but made me realize those 3 certs don't mean sh*t when it came to welding with this rod it was completely different for me.

Thanks for all the tips going to cut some pipe and practice.
Parent - By lo-hi (**) Date 06-24-2014 20:37 Edited 06-24-2014 20:51
Plasma I think your posts are awesome and to the point. The mashed potato explanation was a big help. One time I was making supper and grabbed the carton of o j instead of milk, instantly I invented citrus potatoes. To shed some light on the rod cutting, I only use the stub with the factory end, the other piece goes in the stub bucket or to someone for home projects. I was also taught to weld and not to think. That was somebody else's job. The sex analogy is correct,  hotter and cleaner makes doing a good job easier. Although everything you've said makes sense to me, I am not so sure about everybody else. Perley
Parent - By strother (***) Date 06-25-2014 00:10
Rather than cutting rods I set back a few that didn't get burnt all the way . They are much better for restrike than cut rods
Parent - - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-24-2014 13:46
Thanks for the explanation, I still will continue toe chop the rod in half I always have makes it shorter, the end of the rod doesn't shake as much and pretty much have to if i'm testing on 2 inch pipe with 3/32.

I really had some issue when lighting up with that rod it was like it wasn't hot enough but after a few seconds it burned just fine so yes that arc control knob should have been turned up a little. I've got a syncrowave 250 it doesn't have all that for in stick most and I'm use to other machines that didn't have the car control knob. Something i gotta get use to.

Thanks
Chris
Parent - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-24-2014 19:03
Chris, on the small bore, as viewed from the back of the holder looking foreward, bend the rod down 45 degrees, left or right 45 degrees ( depend if your left or right handed), and rotate your wrist not your arm. Designed to align the rod to the pipe 90 degrees, allowing for puddle visibility and minimal movement to keep rod angles and inclination around the pipe.
I was taught a bit different than most, you'll pick it up.Or figure it out what works for you. But remember this, you don't have to work harder when you work smarter.
Regards.
Parent - - By Blaster (***) Date 06-24-2014 21:52
For 5G and 6G I like to keep a short arc length with the rod close to perpendicular to the pipe wall (which allows the shortest arc length) for the lower half of the pipe.  This keeps the puddle small in diameter and easy to control.  I turn the dig (or arc force / arc control) down very low so that there is minimal corresponding amperage rise with my short arc length.

Something else that works well when you must use a rod bigger than optimum is run the beads fast and thin to stay ahead of the heat.  This requires more current, but more current is fine as long as you don't go too slow.  Works great 2G and 6G.
Parent - - By Stringer (***) Date 06-25-2014 03:59
Thank you Plasma56 for the excellent posts.
Parent - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-25-2014 04:11
Your welcome friend, and I thank you for your kind words.
Parent - By Plasma56 (**) Date 06-25-2014 04:01
Blaster, I like the way you think.

"For 5G and 6G I like to keep a short arc length with the rod close to perpendicular to the pipe wall (which allows the shortest arc length) for the lower half of the pipe.  This keeps the puddle small in diameter and easy to control."

Good advice. When it comes to welding, it controlling arc length. I think your advice shows a solid understanding and a processing of the knowledge to place, control and shape the weld bead.

So if I understand this "why" correctly, traveling with a higher heat allows the rod to melt quickly. The tighter perpendicular arc prevents a wide wet puddle width, and increasing speed of travel prevents over filling and keeping ahead of the building heat. I like it. You describe it well.

Bigger isn't always better and you hit the nail on the head. I don't think I would be far off to suggest "You" have a gift to share to those willing to listen.
Regards.
Parent - - By Chris2626 (***) Date 06-25-2014 06:12
That is true I have done that with 2G I'll give that a try as well. I got some pipe cut plan to go use neighbors lathe to put the bevel on it tomorrow.

Thanks everyone,

Chris
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 07-02-2014 05:26
Ehhhhhh
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 11018 stick rod

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