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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Welder question
- - By Dark_Angel (*) Date 11-26-2014 19:54
This seems kinda weird for me to even ask at the point in my career but I guess I just never thought about it. On my 200D as all others it says not to switch the gears while welding, and I have never done that. But I guess my question is what could happen if someone switched gears for my while I was welding by accident. An for that matter what about switching gears while the machine is still in high idle? That shouldn't make a difference I wouldn't think. But thats all, thanks.
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 11-26-2014 21:14
Hello Dark_Angel, generally the selector does exactly as described, it selects taps from the windings of the machine and connects them. If you are under load/welding arcing can occur across these contacts and possibly other things that I am unaware of so that I believe is the main reason. The fine adjust knobs are wiper style units and are designed for movement while energized. They are also not subject to direct amp loads through the machine circuitry. I am sure that there are others who can provide a more technically correct answer but I believe that you get the idea. Best regards, Allan
- - By Dark_Angel (*) Date 11-27-2014 02:31
That makes sense then. Not sure why but while doing some tie ins today I had my helper put me into 4th gear. I don't believe the welder was on high idle. But while welding something didn't seem right. Went back to 3rd gear and still didn't seem like it wanted to run how it did the day before. Seemed a lot more watery or not the same digging effect I suppose. Wasn't sure if that might have had something to do with it.
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 11-27-2014 21:00
Hello again Dark_Angel, I believe that machines such as yours are capable of running the "same" amperage while in a different range, yet doing this will affect how the voltage interacts relative to the amperage and thus you can experience a "stiffer" arc while in one range and a "runnier" puddle while in another range at the same amperage. Other machine types provide this sort of thing by use of arc force, inductance, or other similarly titled controls. Hope that makes sense. If you read through many of the postings about the SA 200's you'll see topics about rolling the "rack" (referring to the brushes) and other such items that pipe liners and pipe welders have discussed at length and the benefits that can come from some of these abilities. Good luck and best regards, Allan
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 11-28-2014 02:14
Well, I was positive I posted here earlier today.  Cyberspace gets another wayward post.

So, I'm confused..."Gears"??  on a 200D? 3rd, 4th?  Not sure I understand what you are asking.  I have not had a Lincoln or Miller portable with gears. 

You wouldn't want to change polarity while welding, if you have that option.  But what else is there on the 200D that could be damaged by switching during welding?  While I never change anything during welding there are not many things that can be damaged by doing so.

He Is In Control, Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - - By Smooth Operator (***) Date 11-29-2014 00:56
Welderbrent........ Anybody who "pipelines"/welds pipe for a living calls the range selector "gears"...... As explained by Lincoln .......2nd gear with fine current in upper end (60-100)  Runs buttery ( low hy.) ........ Third gear with fine in lower end (10-50) runs with a high digging action (5 p+ , HYP) ....... Also Lincoln's "Arc Force" control knob that lowers the engines RPM, is meant to stack more metal without having to "roll the rack" (changing your voltage/ amperage ).... Which ruins your grinding ability , when you "roll the rack ".......Me personally , I run my "Arc Force" at 6.... (1 is the lowest RPM .....10 is normal RPM for an SA-200):cool:
Parent - By welderbrent (*****) Date 12-01-2014 02:22
Interesting.  And, THANK YOU.
- - By Dark_Angel (*) Date 11-28-2014 03:18
Gears or heat ranges. Sorry should have specified. The ranges from 1st to 5th. One the right hand side looking at the face plate is the fine tune heat adjustment and on the left hand side there is the heat range settings.
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 11-28-2014 03:56
Thought so, but they had a couple of different systems depending upon what era machine you had and your choice of wording threw me.  With the amperage ranges that click in on one of the five with overlapping minimums and maximums you should only have a problem with that switch if it were switched during welding.  High or low idle alone would not be a consideration.  But that may not be your problem.  Could be brushes or in the fine adjustment control which could have a dead spot in the connection area. 

He Is In Control, Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 12-07-2014 21:37 Edited 12-07-2014 21:50
as said already...the "Gears" is just a pipeliner/anyone with a lincoln way of describing heat range.  If you switch gears whilst welding you will lose current in the stinger in between and will cause a heavy arc strike on the switchgear contacts.  At best it will make it have a stiff spot switching at worst you will screw the contact up bad enough to need replacement.  You can turn the fine knob all you want on your machine while welding, no different then a ditch box but DO NOT switch gears or ranges while your lit up.   As long as an arc is not in play you can switch gears idle up or down makes no diff.   As an side note on most Lincoln machines and several others you should not switch from remote to panel while the machine is running.  Choose remote or panel before you start the machine.

This could be a different case on the new redface (sae 300) since it has an infinite course range but I would find out before I tried it.  Most modern millers use pots and actual changes go thru a crapload of IC and SCR circuts between gen set and panel so they really are not affected by this...note no range switch, the dial is everything.  However in general if a machine has a range switch of some sort it is best left alone while your actually welding.

If you mucked up your switchgear it is not hard to inspect or fix usually.  If it has a copper bb from a strike carefully file it off with a fine mill file and shine it back up with some 200 grit or so sandpaper or emory cloth.  Work it till its smooth again and there ya go,  sometimes if you got to dress it a lot you may have to bend that copper a little to get good solid contact (much surface area as possible).
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Welder question

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