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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Undecided
- - By amalgam (*) Date 04-29-2003 00:00
Hi there you guys,
I am ready to buy a MIG welder. Reading a lot it looks like the best way to go is a Lincoln Electric 175. Now there are two models SP175 and SP175+. The only two differences according to LE are:
1) SP175 has a Tap type of control and the SP175+has a Continuous Control
2) SP175 Output Range is 30-175A DC, and SP175+ Output Range is 25-175A DC
Being new in welding, to me this information looks written in Chinese. Since there is a difference in price can you guys please explain to me what that means, and if any of you have any experience in one or the other can you please pass it along?
Thank you
Alfredo
Parent - - By bzzzzzzzzzz (**) Date 04-29-2003 04:04
I am somewhat new to welding and bought a millermatic 172 used. This machine was not supposed to be quite as good on very thin sheet. I would say that assessment was correct. Everything I've read about the Lincoln version of small 220 volt migs has been positive. Supposedly the low amp arc goes lower than the millermatic, and also is very smooth and stable. If I had the cash for a new one at the time I would have probably gone the Lincoln 175 route. As for tapped vs. varialble volt control. Most of what I hear says it really doesn't matter that much. You can adjust more with stickout/wire feed anyway.
Parent - - By Dirtrider (**) Date 04-29-2003 14:06
I had ordered an SP175+, only to go pick it up and it was not the Plus model. The guy made me a deal on a Millermatic 175, it has the infinite adjustable controls as well. I am very pleased with it. Using the .024 wire that came with it, you can weld a tin can if you're careful. I just stepped up to the .030 wire for some 14ga.- 1/8" materials I'm using for my welding table. You have to be a little more careful with the thin materials as you go up in wire size, but it's just getting used to what settings to use in the different situations. The wire is very easy to change (contrary to what I believed) so I'll keep the .024 around if I ever need to go that thin.

I guess to answer your question, I like the ability to adjust things slightly if I'm burning through.....verses having to "click" to the next preset level. You can get the Miller for roughly the same price as the regular SP175 AND get the infinite controls.
Parent - - By amalgam (*) Date 04-29-2003 16:47
I like to have the ability to go as thin as a tin can. I am going to be doing metal art and sometimes you have to go that thin. Now how thick can I go? I received information from the LE people telling me that with the 175+ I can go as far as ¼” with the gas shield process and ½” with fluxcore process (of course using the right wire in each case) I was looking at the miller which is a lot less expensive but they are not too fond of answering questions.
Parent - By Dirtrider (**) Date 04-29-2003 17:58
I'd say those numbers are about right. I laid a few beads down on some I-beam scrap my supplier gave me, 1/4" and at not quite full power I was able to get the under side to melt through slightly with .030 wire. I imagine .035 would easily do the trick. I was sort of hung up on the max thickness thing too. The reality is that those heavier materials are going take some other equipment to work with properly... like a cutting torch, lots of grinding. For hobby/art/garage/auto stuff you'll rarely go thicker than 1/8". And keep in mind if structural integrity is not super important you pretty much melt anything together and make it stick. I wouldn't drive my car across it but you get the idea.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Undecided

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