white metal

Date 07-28-2003 11:49

Is the material you are questioning about look porous on the inside? Does it have a casting or parting line on the outside?
John Wright

By supermechanic (**)

Date 07-28-2003 13:45

Kick stand replacement is a better idea. most bike shops will have a replacement unit. far cheaper to replace than to repair on an item such as this, where the quality of the base metal is in question.
My kids have had plenty of bikes, I've fixed a few frames where the brazing broke, but I've never seen a stand break, hence my idea that the metal is of an inferior quality.

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 07-28-2003 14:05

I agree with the replacement value, but was attemping to try and answer the question. Type and quality of materials will probably still be in question.
John Wright

By Stickman Date 07-28-2003 15:15

appreciate all your replys, and in reply to the wisdom of replacing the kick stand, I agree; this was more of a ''can it be done & if so, how?'' question since I'm pretty new at all this welding stuff.
As far as the material, I don't have it here to look at but the break appeared to be grayish-white and semi-porous in makeup....that is why I thought it to be 'white metal'..
thanks again for the replys,
Stickman

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 07-28-2003 15:25

Welcome to the forum,
Please ask questions, that's how I learn more about this too. I read posts and replies about areas of welding I'm not familiar with. Lots of knowledgeable people monitor this forum on a daily basis. Many different opinions about things give a person asking questions many options to choose from. People from all over the world monitor and really add to the knowledge base here in this forum. We all were new users to the forum at some point, and I hope you'll feel at home here and continue to ask questions.
John Wright

By CHGuilford (****)

Date 07-28-2003 16:20

Stickman,
A lot of those kick stands are cast aluminum though I have no idea what alloy numbers are used.
Chet Guilford

By thepowerofblue (**)

Date 07-28-2003 19:19

hey stickman those thunderbolt welders are nice....i got like 2 300/200 ac/dc welders like that but their nice to have.....i use mine for many different applications....as far as that type of metal i really can't help but keep using that thunderbolt it's a good welder

By Stickman Date 07-28-2003 21:06

thanks to all of you for the speedy reply's; '
jwright650 , I thank you for the greetings and appreciate the help, confidence, and encouragement that is generated by such.
CHGuilford, perhaps I should have been more specific in my original post, it's not the actual arm of the stand that broke, it's the flat piece of metal that the arm pivots on, that bolts to the frame of the bike that broke. I've posted in many other forums in the last 8 years or so and seems I'm always going back to edit what I thought was a nicely stated post,,,lol......sorry for the misconception on my part.
thepowerofblue, I thank you for the statement re: the Thunderbolt welder; as I had stated, I am fairly new to welding and had taken the word of the owner of Air Gas (where I bought the Thunderbolt XL)that Miller was one of the better boxes. It's always nice to hear from those that have, been around and are well experienced, when it comes to either buying or considering purchasing equiptment. I've only used it once and actually, it's in repair right now for the amp adjustment arm wasn't working properly; it felt at times like the arm was going to break if you twisted any harder to turn it, and then at other times the indicator would suddenly jerk a 1/2" or so, or you could feel the nylon gears of the indicator slipping while turning it. Since it was new I decided now was the time to have it corrected.
thanks again to everyone,
Stickman

By Stickman Date 07-28-2003 21:12

Oh yea, forgot to mention, I called Air Gas, where I bought the welder, and the guy said you can weld white metal using a tig welder or torch, using a, and don't hold me to this, but I believe the rod is called: kirt or kirk...anyways, he said it was around $28. a lb, so whatever it is, it's not cheap.
Stickman

By brande

Date 08-01-2003 06:09

You got white metal-get some Aladdin Rod. Applies with torch or tig, nothing I've found works better!!

There are comparable products from the snake oil companies.

Keep in mind that this class is a scratch type solder and the scratching is most important to braek up surface oxides.

Any particulars, contact me directly.

Good Luck
brande

By pgeweldor (*)

Date 04-30-2004 20:11

Hi Stickman, Brande is right. WhiteMetal is a zinc alloy, and alladin rod works well with oxy-acetylene or tig. My grandfather showed me years ago how to weld it with the torch. Use a slight carburizing flame. Also take a steelwire approx 3/32-1/8, and flatten one end out in the shape of a paddle. You can't see the heat in the metal, so you use the paddle to break the oxide. that tells you when you are up around the melting point. Try to lay the torch somewhat horizontal across the part, that will help heat it up gradually and you will have more control over your heat and help prevent the part from falling in to a melted blob. if you can try to support the part to help it from collapsing. Welco makes a rod for this.number 52. Oh I left out, youcan preheat around 400f and sprinkle the flux an the joint before adding the filler rod. Sorry. If you are using tig as I do when I can, AC high frequency. pure Argon, around 15-17 cfh. Pure or 2% tungsten, ball end tungsten, clean real good.try grinding oxide orSS-Wirebrush.weld it very very slow to keep zinc fromburning. Oh and drink milk or heavy cream. Sincerely. Paul.