Armor plate

Date 09-26-2003 10:48

I have been asked to repair the armor plate at the end of a shooting range(someone brought in armor piercing ammo)with either a full new piece or patching. I have never worked with this kind of stuff. Can it be patched, or will I need to do the full replacement? What rod is best to use, and what about preheat? How about technique, anything out of the ordnary? Thanks to anyone who can help.

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 09-26-2003 14:58

Happy

The U.S army actually has good information.

http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-237/toc.htm

Try the above link and then go to (Section VII Armor Plate Welding and Cutting) and see if this doesn't fit your needs.

Lawrence

By happybearwelder (*)

Date 09-27-2003 12:55

WOW! That link is a real wealth of info for any welder. Thank you for providing it. It should answer all my questions.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 09-27-2003 03:37

Generally bullet stops are plain steel (I would check first though). You should have no trouble. You don't want to create a raised surface on the front side since that could direct bullet fragments back toward the shooters. I would cut out or flatten the deformed area, apply a patch to the back, then fill the front and grind smooth.
Bill

By Mike W

Date 09-28-2003 08:12

I once tried to do the same will my mig. It flat out would not work. I believe that it requires a certain rod.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 09-29-2003 03:51

Perhaps the defect was contaminated with bullet metal (lead, tin, antimony from bullet cores or solid lead bullets, copper, tin, nickel from bullet jackets, surely not a complete list) I hadn't really thought about this but in addition to being a possible impediment to welding the vapors from those metals also are an impediment to health.

One should be very careful about ventilation, respirators and so forth in this case.
Bill

By happybearwelder (*)

Date 11-14-2003 02:49

Well. I did the job. What a mess! I think your right about rod. I talked to a supplier and was told 70S6 for new stuff. I used Bowman 140 for the job and I guess that was the wrong one. It welded like dirty cast iron. NWaS. I did manage to get the job done but I sure wasnt proud of it. I thought about contmination thats why I used the Boman 140, its made for dirty welds. Oh well the job is done and the customer was happy. Thanks for the hints.

By - Date 11-25-2003 02:49

i would suggest a hardfacing padding electrode,stick is the only way to go