Just bought a welder..

Date 11-15-2003 17:00

I've got the older version (SP 125) and been very happy. It is limited in terms of duty cycle and you ideally need a 25amp circuit but it works great up to 1/8" mild steel. I have done up to 1/4" by beveling the joints and doing multiple passes.

By TonyPa Date 11-17-2003 01:47

Thanks!!!....

I only have a 20 amp circuit in my garage...ah-ow!!

I am not sure of the motorcycle frames, as in what thickness steel. I am still looking into it. hope it does the job for me...Of course, after a plenty of practice!

thanks for answering me..Much appreciated!!!

By bzzzzzzzzzz (**)

Date 11-17-2003 11:58

It also should have a dedicated circuit. Meaning one unspliced wire from the breaker to the welder recept. I'm not sure whether a 25 amp circuit for 120 volt is code legal in residential wiring. I would think that 20 could handle the load. Also make sure the voltage drop is not too high if it's a long run of wire. Voltage drop is where most existing wiring is inadequate for 120 volt welder. It may not trip the breaker, but a big chunk of the welder power is eaten up by undersized wiring. If you have many bad connections along the way they'll get hotter and could be unsafe, even if the breaker doesn't trip. Above all... MAKE SURE WIRING IS RATED FOR THE BREAKER SIZE. Some older homes having multiple owners can have some scary stuff in the wiring.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 11-18-2003 04:42

#10 wire for 30 amps. Make sure the outlet you get is also rated 30 amps. The cheap ones on the bottom shelf at the home depot are only 15 amps. I'm not an electrician but that was all legal the last time I looked at the code.
Bill

By bzzzzzzzzzz (**)

Date 11-18-2003 11:36

I have never seen such. If there is a 120 volt/30 amp recept. what does the configuration of the prongs look like? I wouldn't think it could be standard as then someone could plug any old device into it. It would certainly be overbreakered for most household stuff without its own overload protection. Yet the sp135 comes equipped with a standard grounded 120 volt plug. The only 120volt 30 amp I've seen was a special application for rv's and generators. ( A twist lock style)

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 11-18-2003 12:41

My 30 ft. camper has a 120v 30amp cord and plug on it. It has heavier lugs on it and it does have a different pattern than your regular ole' 120v 15amp outlet. I have an adapter to adapt it to fit the regular 120v 20amp outlet on my carport, I just run the lights and onboard battery charger, never the air conditioner, and it does fine. The plug and cord stay cool.
John Wright

By gangel99 (*)

Date 11-18-2003 16:41

I had an old electric dryer circuit that was 220v, 30 amp. I had an electrician split it into two, 110V 30 amp circuits and am using that for my welder. Basically you just follow the manual on which settings are appropriate for the maximum safe amperage.

By bzzzzzzzzzz (**)

Date 11-18-2003 18:38

If it's a standard grounded plug 110 volt recept. that means you could plug any 110 volt household device into it. If the device is low amp rating and by some flaw is drawing close to 30 amps, then it could become a very untested, high wattage, resistance space heater. If it's a special recept. like I mentioned before that's different.

By TonyPa Date 11-19-2003 04:08

Well....
I have a 30 amp breaker in my house box.....
Then I ran #8 wire out to the garage....and hooked up a small box out there, with (2) 15 amp breakers in them....

I guess I may need to switch one of the 15's to a 20...and give it a try then....

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 11-20-2003 05:31

I may be showing my age but I believe the ones with two T shaped slots were 30 amp. That said, after I read your post I looked on the shelf at the home depot and everything rated over 20 amps was in some other format so the small format may no longer be allowed (or I could simply have been wrong). I agree the line should be dedicated to that single device. The code also speaks about how much the breaker rating can exceed the device rating for lines that serve single devices but I don't remember the number (it isn't very much).
Bill

By mcwelding (**)

Date 11-20-2003 12:51

hey tony,
i had a lincoln sp125 plus. loved it. ran it off many different standard outlets, no problems. just make sure if ya use an extension cord, that it isnt a light gage one, like 14ga. you will lose power with this type. prefer not to use any cord if poss.

By bzzzzzzzzzz (**)

Date 11-20-2003 16:39

Never had any problems is good. You still could encounter substandard wiring and poorly spliced connections. These could be hidden under walls and not protected with proper junction boxes. If you run the unit full tilt, the insulation can go there. Once this happens they could arc at full 120 volts and circuit ampacity. This could happen in a hidden area. This would not be good.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 11-21-2003 06:06

I've seen splices outside boxes and buried boxes but the best ever was a circuit that left the fusebox from one fuse, wandered around and came back to the fusebox where it was connected to a different fuse.
Bill

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 11-21-2003 11:32

Bill,
I bet you've also seen the ones that leave the box and go out of the house and dead end out in the yard somewhere and still have the breaker in the "on" position.
John Wright

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 11-22-2003 07:37

You'd think they would want the breaker position back wouldn't you.
Bill

By bzzzzzzzzzz (**)

Date 11-21-2003 15:07

In my home the pevious owner had no time to get 14-3/g romex. He got the three way wired by "ingeniously" using the bare ground wire for the runner conductor. He also buried all the old kitchen recepts. boxes under the 3/8 drywall. I just took everthing going into the kitchen out and completely rewired it. Surprised I didn't find wires made from coat hangers covered with black tape!

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 11-22-2003 07:33

Shhh... You'll give people ideas.
Bill