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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Gassed up and no where to go...
- - By CHEVYTOWN13 (**) Date 12-30-2003 23:36
Just picked up a 150 bottle with a mixture of 75/25 argon/carbon dioxide.

I'm setting things up and have a few questions...

1. The Lincoln 135 came with a kit for GMAW. Do I need plumbers tape to help seal the connections for the hose and regulator or will simply tightening it be suffice?

2. The kit came with a regulator...Ar/Co and psi. Just to understand, the psi gauge is the amount of pressure in the cylinder and the Ar/Co gauge is the amount being discharged into the gun?

3. What is the best discharge pressure to set this little machine?

4. When I'm ready for the blues, do I simply turn on the machine and then turn the valve on the cylinder to fully open?

5. When I'm done, turn off the machine and then turn off the valve?

6. Do I need to purge the lines before/after use?

Any help greatly appreciated and damn am I excited as nuts!

RM
Parent - - By DGXL (***) Date 12-31-2003 00:28
A.) Calm down.

1.) Teflon tape is a good idea on the small fittings of the gauges, but not recommended for the cylinder threads.

2.) The first gauge is the pressure in the cylinder, the second is the output which is the one your concerned about.

3.) About 30 cfh should get you started.

4.) You don't need to fully open the valve, but you do want to:
crack the cylinder before attaching the flow meter or gauges to clear out foreign matter.

5.) Yes.

6.) No.

B.) Have fun and a Happy New Year with your new found toy.
Parent - - By CHEVYTOWN13 (**) Date 12-31-2003 01:36
[deleted]
Parent - By DGXL (***) Date 12-31-2003 02:39
I would prefer to use that particular machine for GMAW-S applications.

Enjoy.
Parent - - By dee (***) Date 12-31-2003 06:30
Chevytown,
A couple of hints I hope will help avoid trouble;
...be aware that teflon tape has been known to cause problems in various applications if applied beyond the beginning of the threads so as to allow small shreds of it into moving parts, bearings, seals, orfices or various filters of any mechanism on any device- use it with caution whenever you use it

...if you want to relieve the standing pressure from seals, valves, and lines it's necessary to turn off the shield gas at the tank, release the feed rollers, and trigger the torch until all pressure on the gas gauges has reduced to zero before shutting off the welder; much like how some folks handle a garden hose (except the hose nozzle- the electrical solenoid valve- is controlled by welder power and wire feed is invloved) any arguments about weather purging that pressure is "necessary" probably won't have anything to do with safety (BTW I don't know anybody who actually disconnects the feed system- but use caution, common sense and discretion with the wire as if verifying the feed rate- it will be energized)

...while experimenting in cold weather bear in mind that ambient temperature is a variable when taken to extremes, and if you are having any trouble step one is to eliminate or at least adjust one variable at a time so you can identify the problem; my opinion is that it's easier to learn and better to practice on "summertime" room-temperature steel- you can heat it "to touch" with almost anything to reach a moderate temperature, including a quartz work light, if you lack equipment (although if you try using your wife's favorite hairdryer you'll need to lay in a supply of styptic- expect to find strange things happening to your favorite razor in return)
Inexpensive torches are not hard to find and come in very handy

...try a short, experimental bead sample without the shield gas (keep the valve "off") so you can be familiar with what happens without sufficient shielding; you'll likely see this charicteristic at start-up unless you've got gas filling all the plumbing from the bottle to the nozzle, and is a big reason some people find the "purge" button a handy accessory

...finally, in the event of difficulties, you might save some trouble by verifying your equipment OCV with a voltmeter and the wire feed rate with a watch and ruler in the event any "instructions" don't seem to provide the necessary weld result

Have fun!

Holiday regards
D
Parent - - By CHEVYTOWN13 (**) Date 12-31-2003 07:11
Sounds like a deal hometown.

I live in Southern California sos the weather is suave.

I deciced not to use teflon in worries a small piece might find its way into the regulator.

When the job was done, I set my speed to the lowest setting and purged all remaining gas after turning the valve off. Took about 5 seconds or so.

The coolest thing is the time saved. I should be able to produce at a much steadier rate now. Post clean up was tough with FCAW...

RM
Parent - By sparx (**) Date 01-02-2004 18:29
Just want to point out to everyone.....teflon tape or any other type of thread sealer is not required or recommended on any fittings other than pipe thread fittings. The fittings that go from the regulator to the cylinder valve would be a CGA 580 fitting that when tightened, seal on their own. (another misconception is that you need to "stand on" the wrench to tighten the nut.) this will only damage the threads and the mating surface of the regulator nut and nipple. If you have tightened the regulator nut to the cylinder properly,it won't leak. If it does, then there is a problem with either the valve or the regulator. The fiiting that goes from the welding machine to the regulator outlet is an inert fitting with the same type of mating/sealing device as the cylinder. tighten with a wrench, but not overly tight. usually a 1/8 turn from bottom is sufficient.
Happy new year everyone!
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Gassed up and no where to go...

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