Hello again New Guy and everyone else!
So far, you've got some good responses!!!
Ed Craig gave me 2 responses based on your query verbatim...
1st) "The subject is covered in the pipe and flux cored section of this site and in my MIG/Flux Cored book.
The bottom line it's likely moisture has got into the flux. This is a common problem especially with Lincoln flux cored wires. By the way who is the wire manufacturer? The moisture can get into the flux due to poor wire manufacturing (poor wire joint seal), poor wire storage, (humid or damp location), no protection for the wire when it's on the (feeder) welder. Take note of the wire's storage and baking recommendations. Baking the wire before use sometimes helps, using a slightly longer wire stickout preheats the wire, use the highest possible weld current, slowing down weld travel and increasing the weld size all may help. Do'nt use all position wires for horizontal flat fillets, fast freeze slag." My question to new guy would then be to ask how old is this wire and what steps do you take to ensure that the wire is protected from moisture pick up?
2nd) "By the way type in the words "worm track" in the search part of this QA (the same goes for in the AWS forum but go back on the search at least 500 days) and more data is available.
Worm tracks are moisture or hydrocarbons. Think of them as an extended line of porosity (an elongated gas pocket) rising up through the weld trying to get into the slag but the fast freeze all position slag solidifies trapping the worm tracks (gas pores) in the weld.
Many companies use all position wires for welds in the flat/horizontal positions. They should use the EX0T-X wires which have a basic slower cooling thicker slag. Also these wires have more deoxidizers."
(brande, I agree with you about the moisture and switching to CO2 especially if new guy's using Lincoln man! I hope you'll show up for the Miller "squarewave" SAW Demo meeting coming up on February 7th @ the Steamfitter's local 449 union hall. It should be fun to hear and see how all the Lincoln rep's will react!!! Hope to see you and anyone else there!)
I noticed that in the pipe and flux cored data section in Ed's site recommends an E90T5-B3 wire for the A335-P22 pipe but I could'nt locate the A234-WP22 pipe because there was'nt any info on it...
Also, as mentioned by GRoberts and way back in 2002 by DGXL to watch out for your travel angle as you're welding. (I believe no more than 10-15 degrees under 90) I know this can be difficult between the pipes if there is'nt sufficient space to work from but, I do'nt think it's impossible to adjust for in new guy's situation.
Finally, as mentioned by Rod of God - wire stickout is also crucial.
(3/8 -1/2" stickout) With the wire to work distance, the tip of the wire should be as close as possible to the weld pool without making contact with the pool itself, adjust volts to set this arc length. If the wire touches - the weld spatter will occur, (sometimes even slag trapped underneath the root face that keeps showing up as worm tracks or wormholes in subsequent passes) provide a slight increase in volts.
(1/2 - 1 volt increase) If the arc length is too long the weld surface will be too fluid so an adjustment of 1/2 - 1 volt decrease will correct this condition.
If you're using Lincoln wire switch to CO2 (current/voltage settings may need adjustment if you switch to CO2) like brande mentioned but, if you do'nt want to switch to CO2, you could also throw "economy" out the window and use Alloy Rod's Dual-shield "Ultra" (My favorite! I do'nt know-who owns them now?) wire equivalent with the 75/25 mix if you do'nt mind spending the extra pennies per pound of wire for the job and based on the metallurgical differences in the 2 different pipe grades, your results should be more favorable if you switch to this higher quality wire but keep in mind to choose the right wire based on the position(s) you're welding from (Flat/Horizontal or All position)... Oh yeah btw, using the contact tips designed for FCAW will reduce the amount of tips you go through also, just a thought... I'd get a cylinder of CO2 if you want a quick fix if you're using Lincoln and make sure your wire (whatever brand) is protected from moisture...
Anywho, I hope that that all of us here provided you some direction as to how to go about eliminating your problem. Please let us know how you make out New guy!!!
Respectfully,
SSBN727 Run Silent... Run Deep!!!