First, welcome...
I may be too casual about it but I have found even a single flashback arrestor enough to cause more problem than they're worth (not really true, but it gets the point accross) and I am quite remiss in how promptly I replace mine after they fail, and they often fail around 6 months of what some here would cosider almost no use. Fact is, I probably spend more time without one than I do with one on my gear.
If there were a safety heading available to us it would be a nice forum to open this discussion. It may get lengthy, so I hope your answers don't get hidden. Your "simple question" may excite more stimulating controversy than you expect.
I have little use for flash arrestors. Salesmen at the weld supply shop who have attained their sales quota suggest they're unnecessary, logic suggests the apparatus would not be approved if they were necessary, they're a nusance, and they often cause problems with the flame. Nevertheless, when I just HAVE to spend some money to maintian my repoir with my weld supply guys they are as good an excuse as anything else I don't really need. How's that for reckless abandon?
Seriously, I wonder what statistical data exists supporting their need or effectiveness, or OSHA regulation I've overlooked. The early training I received and the ancient books I have both neglect to mention them.
Mine is perhaps old thinking and fresh opinions might save me a trip into low earth orbit someday.
I'd say Victor knows what they're talking about and you don't need additional gadgetry. A good rule of thumb is to follow manufacturer's advice, and permit their experience and testing to put to rest all contention.
Less controversial I am sure is how to determine if your fittings require a sealant. The fittings on the gas apparatus you have do not use the threads to create the actual seal. If you think of the mechanics behind a flair or compression fitting you see how the seal is created by a tight, metal-to-metal contact between a fluted and a tapered set of rather soft parts (brass, Cu, etc.) in the fitting; they conform closely to prevent any permeation between the two surfaces. If you look closely at the various fittings on your apparatus you will see the same principal of operation. They are designed to work without sealant, and it makes sense... I'd want to shoot the moron who contrived a system by which I needed to poke around and fuss to install something switched around as regularly as hoses, tanks, or gauges. These fittings must not be ovrtightened (nor should the adjustment needle valves in your new torch) lest damage occur to the sealing surface and they seal no longer. Keep them clean, use no lubrication or sealants, and be careful of their proper alignment both before and while snugging them to service...
...by contrast, were you to remove a gauge from your regulator you will see the seal is achieved at the threads themselves. These pipe threads actually are tapered; the leading end of the pipe is a smaller diameter than the innermost (top) of the threads. It does not provide a positive seal against leakage without some help.
Of the various thread sealants (find Loctite/Permatex's site) the type I prefer LEAST is teflon tape. Little bits of it are known to enter equipment and cause trouble; some pumps I have installed warn that it's use viods warranty, and it does not seem to permit the latitude "pipe dope" type sealants permit when aligning parts (to make the gauge point forward, for example) and I've seen it's [mis]use contribute to splitting fittings. I just dislike the stuff and cuss at it whenever I wind up using it... a dap of "permatex" and I'm confident it's leakproof; some wraps of PTFE and I'm in suspense 'till testing and an occasional redo.
Regards
d