DongeR,
My suggestion for the flanges would be to purchase them. First and probably foremost, the amount of time and money necessary to fab up those flanges would probably cost a lot more than $30, and would probably be more headache on top of that if a hole was off just a little bit. In addition to this, if the ports aren't exactly right, you will probably get some weird turbulence or, at the least, some weird sounds (A buddy of mine has aftermarket headers on his 350 and the danged thing sounds like it has a perpetual exhaust leak, but it's just the turbulence inside the pipes combined with the thin walls). A manufacturing laser is more trustworthy and proven, in my opinion, than a hand machined job.
I know that SS will look awesome, but save your money on that stuff and get some mild steel pipes ceramic coated at your local powder-coater (lower coefficient of friction and can handle a lot of heat) after you get it all welded up. They will look just as good when you're done, and it will not radiate as much heat, but I will warn you that this may up the turbo inlet temperature.
If you do go with SS, it is easily weldable to mild steel. I think 309L is the rod you are looking for, but don't quote me. Just about anyone else on here should be able to point you in the right direction on that one, as well as what grade of SS is the best for high temps.
As for sturdiness, I know its probably not possible, but if there is a bolt that you could mount a bracket to on the turbo and then tie it in to a bolt on the engine, that would be the sturdiest. If this isn't possible, weld a bracket on the exhaust pipe pre or post turbo and tie it into a mounting bolt or similar. Having the ability to fab doesn't mean that you have to do it like a major manufacturer would do it--build it simple.
I do have a question though- Is that 1500F the peak temp? I was under the impression that a turbo worked the hardest when it was winding up instead of when cruising (this is in reference to a CAT or a Cummins, and not a gasoline engine, so there may be a difference). In either case, your EGT doesn't mean that the flanges and pipes are at that temperature as well, just that they are somewhere between that and the engine compartment temperature depending on how much airflow is in there.
Enough of my rambling, and hope that helps!
G. L.
For expected service temperatures anywhere near 800 deg C I would not weld stainless directly to mild steel. The coefficient of thermal expansion for stainless is different enough from mild steel that the heating/cooling cycles associated with engine on/engine off will cause thermal fatigue. I'm not an engine builder, but in the petrochemical process industries it is common practice to use flanged connections when joining stainless to mild steel in high temperature applications because of the high susceptibility of the disimilar metal welds to thermal fatigue.
Also, FYI, the common temperature limit for steel (used in process industries) beyond which you can get unacceptable rates of oxidation is around 1050 deg F and even lower than that for cyclic temperatures. Ceramic coating would minimize oxidation if the coating is resistant to disbonding caused by the thermal cycling.