I had three sheared off 8-32 screws in a sprocket assembly. I first tried to tig weld a washer to the screw but the washer would get too hot. I then cutoff some small hex stock into 1/8" thick "washers". I drilled a hole slightly smaller then the 8-32 diameter. I countersunk the hole and clamped it over the screw. One careful shot with the mig and I could put a wrench on the hex and remove the screw. Maybe you might find this useful one day.
One old weldor's addition to the above is to use a thin cardboard washer under the "nut" This insulates the nut so that weld metal focuses on the bolt at first, and it burns away with the heat, as you fill up the nut, preventing bolt seizure due to upset
I've heard that a steel nut laid over a busted bolt can be removed that way. What I read described the situation of having a steel bolt break inside an aluminum casting. Supposedly the aluminum dissipates the heat so well it's usually unscathed when the nut is welded to the broken stud. I've had a water pump bolt on a car do this. Probably works well for a busted lugnut too, just watch the heat, and be aware of what components are near the weld area.
I echo the caution of applying too much heat by bzzzzzzzzzzzz on parts that have been heat treated. This may adversely effect the heat treat of those parts. John Wright
I used the same method to remove a countersunk allen head screw that I had spent several days soaking with PB Blaster to no avail. I welded a washer over the head and then welded a nut to the washer. It came right out.
I echo the caution of applying too much heat by bzzzzzzzzzzzz on parts that have been heat treated. This may adversely effect the heat treat of those parts.
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