I would think burn through & distortion would would be your biggest problem with SMAW on something as thin as automotive sheet steel, but I bought some speciality rod from Forney that works good on 18 GA material. It is E-6013, 1/16" diameter. It is a low penetrating rod, has a soft arc and can be run on AC or DC. Recommended current is 20-40 amps. I run it on DCEN for the lightest penetration. At least you will have plenty of practice material as close as your junk yard.
Hey Thirdeye,
I have a Lincoln AD/DC 225 SMAW machine and I have wondered about sheet metal welding too. What does DCEN stand for?
DCEN stands for Direct Current Electrode Negative, also called straight polarity. In this case the work lead is connected to the "+" and the stinger is connected to the "-". Electrons flow toward the workpiece and the penetration is less than Direct Current Electrode Positive.
So, on my machine (Linc. AC/DC 225 Buzzbox), that would mean the ground glamp is clamped to the work and is + and the selector on the machine is set to DC- and the stick is -. Is that right?
I had only used the rod & size mentioned above on 18 GA lap and slot welds. I tried a couple of butt joints this afternoon, and it is hard to keep the rod steady, everytime your heart beats it moves a 1/8". Hopefully someone else has some better experience or some advise to share. The Hobart site has a "Weld Talk" board that might have some information also.
Automotive sheet is very thin. I would recommend either MIG welding but that requires a whole new set-up.
If you have a torch, an oxy-acetylene weld with steel filler is a good choice. Choose one of the smaller torch welding tips for the job. I know they come with a number designation but most kits have 3
(as in small, medium and large) TIG rods work pretty well. Something like E70-S2. You can practice with just about any carbon steel wire that's not rusty. Guys used to use coat hangers for that purpose. Don't plan on great properties out of a coat hanger. Typically they're too high in carbon content and produce a relatively brittle weld.
stick welding is fine for sheet metal work.the main thing is to use a low penetrating rod such as 6013 on dc with low amperage and you shouldn't have a problem because i used stick to weld the thinnest stuff i ever welded in my life before such as 3/32
with 6013 3/32 rod my biggest problem is learning to reconize when the sheetmetal pudle changes color just before it drops out
well that and i was in a hurry to try it and don't have my body pieces fitted up very well i almost have enugh room in my garage again so i can work on it some more out of the rain
i am going to get some of that small 6013 mntioned above tomorrow when i get off work in the morning
thanx for all the help and suggestions
i just figure what better way to learn control than to start on the hard stuff :)
oh and sorry my typing sux alot
i am smarter than i type !! :)
plus the fact i can brag i used a stick to do all the sheet metal
:)
I hate to see you have to cut out a quarter panel because it warped too bad to straighten. Keep as much heat out of the base material as you can. Don't get too greedy and try to weld the whole joint at once. Make small tacks and then stop and move to a spot that is cold and keep moving around until you get it welded up. Rags soaked with water laying on the sheet metal nearby will help, just don't let the water run all over your joint while welding. Dab a wet rag on the surrounding sheet metal in a circular pattern working in towards the weld cooling the sheet metal until it is cool enough to put your hand on, then skip several inches and weld a small area again. For me, I find I get greedy when it's welding along really well and I don't want to stop, but I always pay for it.
Let us know how you get along with your project,
John Wright
Hey Oddcomp,
I am modifying a kid's go kart and I want to put some sheet metal on the sides to keep legs in the kart. What gauge sheet metal would be appropriate?
Chris
well i think i am the last person to ask for what size err.. gauge of sheet metal to use:)
but i just read somewhere where it was suggested a 7014? <i think> powdered iron filler type of rod has a low penetration and is good for sheet metal and works with dcen polarity
anyone else heard this ?
oh and i found some of the 1/16th 6013 rod
not been feeling well lately to try it that much even though we have had shockingly good weather recently
but i did but weld 2 pieces together with alot less burn through still was not pretty but i was able to reweld over the burn throughs and close them up so thats good
but it took a while of bending back and fourth to seperate the test joint
so i assume that it had a decent weld at the time :)
yeah i seem to get in a hurry as well
i did manage to fix a small bracket inside teh door of the wife's turbo dodge caravan even inside the confines of the door was sorta a p.i.t.a
but at least her power windows work again
:)
the 1/16 7014 rod does work pretty good, but I remember how it wiggled about on the end of my holder. I usually cut the stick in half and used the shorter stiffer pieces. Also make sure your metal is as clean as can be, sanded and wiped down with acetone. I found it difficult to get an arc with the lowers setting on my Carftsman Infinite amp 120V stick welder. I welded up an entire inner fenderwell puzzle I had cut out to install some headers with a stick and a set of patchwork headers too so it is possible. I broke down finally and bought a used MIG welder with a 23# gas bottle for 40 bucks at a swap meet! I picked up the bottle with regulator attached, too, as a joke and he didnt even flinch!
I am hard pressed to belive this string is for real :).
If you think you are teaching yourself to weld by sticking 2 sections of sheet metal together with SMAW think again.
There may be a little more to it than that. In fact I bet bet there is a lot more to it. I suppose the only wrench you ever use is 15" adjustable (better know as a Cresent wrench).
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