Hi,
I mostly have been making shop tool stands etc for my shop from 1/8" angle mild steel. I have a Lincoln AC/DC 225 buzzbox. I am using 6011 electrodes. I have been welding on DC Negative 65 amps.
My question: is this okay for this application? I have read the manual and Richard Finch's book "Welders Handbook...". I have not found any literature that talks about WHY you would us DC+, DC-, or AC on a welder like mine. I am just curious when I should use DC+, DC-, or AC. I have an older book by Lincoln Welding thicker than than the good Lord's Book, and it is way over my head. I am just looking for some real world application answers.
Being that my materials are 1/8" to 1/4" mild steel, I just want to know when to use what polarity. Or is it whatever you want, preference? I do not weld SS, aluminum, or anything else. Just mild steel. Nothing that is critical either. No welding on autos, race cars, aircraft, or bridges, etc. :) I have welded sides on my utility trailer, some extra stuff (added onto the roll cage) on my son's go kart, some tool stands, etc. This is not a profession, just a hobby for me.
So any advice on polarity selection is welcome.
Anyone can chime in. Thanks for the help in advance. Chris
Chris,
You can do alot of good work with that buzzbox.
The most simple way to answer your question about when to use the different polarities is to say that Its not about your machine, its all about the electrodes. Each electrode will perform differently with different polarities (which is good for you), and a few should not be used with specific polarities (its good to know when).
Here is a link to a manual for a machine much like yours. On page 3 you will find a little chart that tells which rods use which polarity and what effects the polarity has on the specific rod, like more/less penetration etc. Its real simple to read.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/pdf/spec_sheets/Stickmate_LX_AC.pdf
I looked at the link. It says to use 6011 with AC or DCEP. I have been using the 6011 with DCEN, so what will happen since I have not been using DCEP?
Just an adder to the post by Lawrence..... Electrode coatings are made up of different ingredients which result in a wide range of performance characteristics. (The books you have should discuss all of them). 6011 is an excellent choice. It has a digging arc, light slag, can be used on rusty material and produce a high quality of weld deposit particularly in vertical and overhead welds. But, you might want to check out some 6013 and some 7014. These electrodes have a heavier coating, produce less spatter, have a softer arc (less penetrating than 6011) and produce a superior appearance of the finished beads. Where 6011 has coarse ripples, 6013 and 7014 have tight ripples and an even profile with a minimum of undercutting.
Is 6011 the best choice for rusty metal?
When would you want to use 6013 vs 7014?
If you use 6013 & 7014, does the metal need to be cleaner than with 6011?
6013 has been called a general purpose rod for steel. It actually was developed for sheet metal so it can be used on thin material. Both 6013 & 7013 are used for brackets, frames, racks, ornamental work and the like. Both are popular with hobbists. It is best to clean the material when using these rods.
7014 is a little higher speed, needs higher current (because of iron powder in the coating) and has a higher deposition rate. It has a heavier slag than 6013. I think it starts and restarts easier than 6013 and it has superior mechanical properties (70,000 psi minimum tensile strength). It is not recommended for material 18 GA & thinner.
Both of these are good choices if you have a bad fit-up. The welds are so smooth that I rarely have to do any extra preparation before painting.
I like both 6010 and 6011 on rusty material because of the arc digging. They are a better choice for good root penetration.
Thanks! Excellent answer! Chris
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