Welding 1/4" Steel with a Lincoln 135

Date 06-21-2004 21:27

You can weld on 1/4" and thicker steel with your little Lincoln wire feed welder. Use .035" or .030" self shielded flux core wire, and turn the volts all the way up. Turn the wire feed to the second slowest setting, (I think this would be "2"). You will have to stop a lot as you will either max out the duty cycle of the machine or your circuit breaker. I have welded some pieces over 1" thick this way, but I wouldn't weld anything critical with it. It will also take several passes.

By cardr Date 06-21-2004 23:52

Thanks for the reply. Will I still use the Argon/CO2 gas with that wire? Also when I do the several passes do I weld ontop of the weld I just put down? Also, in my book it says that going to the flux-cored wire that I should be wired DC (-) vs. when using the mig like it's wired now is DC (+). I don't understand the difference, but should I make this change?Thanks for your help!

By pjseaman (**)

Date 06-22-2004 02:17

Change the polarity and no gas. After the first pass chip the slag and brush it clean then run the second pass from the middle of the first bead to the lower side and 1/2 cover the first weld, then clean again and a third cover pass from the tie in point in the second weld pass to the top completely covering the first pass. This sounds hard but with practice it will get better.

Good luck,
pjseaman

By jwright650 (*****)

Date 06-22-2004 11:10

Hi pjseaman,
It depends on the type of fluxcore wire you buy, whether you can run it without gas or not. Some FC wires are self-shielding and others aren't. What we use in our shop is dual shielded (ESAB 111-AC w/ 100%CO2). Many Steel Erectors will use the self-shielded wire because of the fact that a "slight" breeze won't disturb the shielding around the puddle, like with the dual shielded type.

I too have welded thicker materials with my little Hobart Handler 135. Many passes and lots of time to get the joint filled, but it made it. Like GRoberts stated, be patient! That machine wasn't designed for thick material and the duty cycle is really low. If you are routinely welding thicker materials, I would suggest investing in a machine that would handle it rather than torchering that little Lincoln repeatedly.
John Wright

By hankj

Date 06-22-2004 21:13

Don't forget joint preparation, unless you're doing a fillet weld. For .250, the bevel angle should be at least 30° with a maximum 3/32" root face. You cana ctually make a pretty strong weld if everything is right.

Be well.

hankj

By cardr Date 06-22-2004 22:11

What I'm trying to do is weld a 1/4" plate to another 1/4" plate on the front stub of my race car. So, do I need to take a grinder to each of the pieces and make like a cavity to start the weld in? I think I understand what you mean so when I get through grinding the two pieces when put together will look like a "V", and I weld in the "V"? Is that right?

Thanks guys for all your help!

By hankj

Date 06-22-2004 23:03

I think so. If it's butt-to-butt (butt joint is the term) then that is almost correct. If you will have access to both sides of the weldment (the pieces to be joined) then bevel BOTH sides, leaving a 1/16" land, or flat spot, in the center of each. Weld on both side, filling the grove, using a "wave" bead, with a 1-2 count on the high sides and a fast motion through the middle.

If you can only get to one side, make the bevel accross the full width, leaving that 1/16" land on the side you will not be able to weld on, and proceed just like the above.

If it's different than what I've described, tell us more and we'll help.

Be well.

hank

By cardr Date 06-23-2004 02:13

Hank,

It's not a butt joint I think it's a fillet. There is a 1/4" steel plate welded to the front frame stubs on my chassis. Let's say they are 6"X4". I need to weld a 1/4" plate on top of it that is larger. So the new plate will be 8"X4". So three sides will match up exactly, and the side to the outside of the car will stick out 2", and this is where I will bolt my bumper. So do I need to make the new plate a little smaller to weld around the three sides, or can I just weld right where they are matched up? The only other way I can think to explain this is if you have two pieces of 1/4" steel that are 4"X4". Lay them on top of each other and now weld them together. The only way is to either weld them on their sides, or make one smaller than the other. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

By hankj

Date 06-23-2004 02:51

I think you're descibing a lap weld. If I've got it right, the pieces lie in the same plane, and they overlap. If so, you're right - fillet weld. No preparation, other than clean surfaces, is required. Use that same weave bead technique described earlier, and if necessary put a "cap" on the bead so that the thickness of the fillet weld is the same as the material being welded. Do the same thing on the other end of the lap.

By Jove, I think we've got it!!

Be well.

hank

By cardr Date 06-24-2004 01:52

Thanks so much!!!!!

By pjseaman (**)

Date 06-25-2004 03:23

Guys if the edges match up then its an edge weld. 5 joint types butt, corner, tee, lap, and edge. The definition of edge vs corner is 30 degree angle or less its an edge more than 30 degrees its a corner.

Sorry, I read welding at night, when I can't sleep.
Hank, see ya at the other place,
Peace,
pjseaman